Does it really matter? Just hit it with some Weed B Gone max.

Well, guess everyone else answered this already. We have that growing in and around our yard in various shades. My favorite is the almost black leafed variety with the deep violet flowers. ttfn Cheryl.

I think it is a tiarella or foamflower.

All are good tips to deal with Field Bindweed (a.k.a. Morning Glory). Here's my 2cents worth: The most effective way to deal with any plant (either to make it grow or to kill it) is to understand how it propagates itself. One of the reasons that Bindweed is so invasive (and frustrating) is that it really badly wants to "go forth and multiply". Bindweed is very successful at all of the requirements for survival: 1)It's a long-lived perennial, 2) it propagates both by vegetation and by seed 3)the seeds are viable for a long time in the soil (I've heard 30 years) 4) I've seen a picture of the root system being over 20 feet deep 5) it will re-sprout a new plant at each "node" along the root and stem 6)it's quite drought tolerant 7) it is happy in ANY kind of soil (clay, sand, rocks, loam... But it likes disrupted soil the best. All this is very discouraging, but understanding Bindweed's method of reproduction helps control it. Here's what's been successful for me in "managing" Bindweed in my yard, and in the other yards that I've worked in. I've delt with many acres of Bindweed, and now only have to carry a small bottle of glyphosate in the spring and remind the Bindweed who's boss. ;) 1) First line of attack is to manage the existing plants, and their root systems that sprout from each node when you pull off the top. I've tried many ways to deal with the "parent" plant (pulling, smothering, tilling, burning, vinegar, salt, solarizing with plastic, etc.). But the most effective way that I've found is that it's important to use an herbicide that trans-locates the herbicide through the root system (therefore killing the roots along with the vegetative top growth; remember that Bindweed sprouts from each node including on the root system). Glyphosate (the effective ingredient in Roundup) is one of the more successful herbicides that trans-locates through the root system. There are a few "tricks" in using glyphosate. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and mix the glyphosate using the instructions for "shrubs/vines" (in other words, mix it as strong as possible). Glyphosate is easily neutralized by contaminates, so make sure you don't use dirty water (from a pond, etc.), don't add any other chemical unless it specifies that it's compatable, and make sure that you don't use a metal canister to mix/spray/store it in (I use plastic). Having said that, I add a few "secret ingredients". Glyphosate works best in slightly acid pH water. Most of our mountain states have alkaline soils, and therefore alkaline water. Therefore, I add a bit of vinegar (about a tablespoon/gal) to acidify the water. The next ingredient that I add is a surfactant (which some of the herbicides already have in them). A surfactant breaks down the surface tension on the leaf, and allows the herbicide to spread over the surface therefore being more available to be absorbed (also called a spreader/sticker). One of the easiest surfactants is liquid dish soap. A few drops is plenty. The final "secret" ingredient is a bit of water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle Grow. It is extremely important for the plant that you want to kill is "actively green and growing". Fertilizer helps with this. Keep in mind that glyphosate is a NON SELECTIVE herbicide. It will kill any plant, but it has to touch the leaves (or other part of the plant that has chlorophyll in it (some plants have chlorophyll in their trunks/stems). Glyphosate is neutralized in the soil and therefore is NOT a soil contaminate/sterilizer. Be careful of chemical drift (the wind blowing the spray to other plants), tracking glyphosate on your shoes, tracking via pets, rain, etc. If the Bindweed is amoung other plants, I use a plastic drinking cup that has the bottom cut out. I pull the Bindweed through the bottom of the cup, and then spray into the cup therefore reducing the possibility of the herbicide drifting onto other plants. I let this dry, and then remove the cup. I also have heard of using a paint brush and painting the leaves, and also "foaming" the soap into bubbles (remember the soap?) and placing the glyphosate-infused bubbles on the plant. It's hard to be exact when you're spraying, so try these other options. It is most effective to use glyphosate in the fall when the plant is pulling nutrients into their roots getting ready for winter. But, Bindweed takes persistence, so use it whenever you can. Another tip: DON'T use any herbicide when the temps. will be over 80degrees!!! Most all chemical herbicides will volatilize above 80 degrees and turn into a gas and drift onto other plants. :( 2) Now we have to deal with the seeds! A pre-emergent herbicide (such as Preen) will help, but you're only putting off the germination of a 30 year viable seed. I've chosen to allow them to germinate and then continue to kill the "parent" plant. Do this by pulling new seedlings and continuing to use glyphosate to kill the more mature plants. Remember, each time you till or work the soil, you're bringing up seeds to the surface so that they will germinate. It will seem like a never-ending battle, but you can win! There's an old saying that it takes 7 years to manage one year's worth of laziness by allowing a plant to reseed. Don't give up! Sorry for the long reply. Hope this helps!