Looks like either Red Thread or Pink Patch, that pink color you are seeing is a characteristic of both diseases. Red thread tends to be pretty benign, although unsightly, and will usually resolve itself without chemical fungicides. Red thread often strikes nitrogen deficient turf, but it can be found on healthy turf as well. Pink Patch is similar in that it produces pink color, and is fairly benign, but with Pink Patch you get cottony growths on the blades, unlike Red Thread's antler like growths from the tips of leaf blades. Again, low nitrogen can be a factor, but the main one is turf that is constantly wet for extended periods of time like your are having in Long Island.

It is possible your 'normal' watering is key to this. Most people water wrong, so I consider 'normal' to be wrong. If you are watering every day for 10 minutes, like most people do, that isn't right. At this time of year in your area you should be watering no more than once every week or two and letting the soil surface dry out all the way before watering again. In fact it seems to me I was reading on another forum where people living in your area have not watered yet this year. I think you definitely need some fungal control. If you want to use chemicals you'll have to identify the disease first. Yes, I know that is why you're here. If you want to try an organic approach, you do not need to identify the disease first and you can get going now. Without knowing what it is, I would first spray with milk (any kind at all) from a hose end sprayer set at 3 ounces per gallon. Second I would apply ordinary corn meal at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet over the entire lawn. Corn meal is an organic fertilizer that will not interact with any other fertilizer you have used or might use. Between that and the milk you should see improvement in 21 days. Organic solutions usually work but, unfortunately, they are not overnight cures. Of course for fungal diseases, even the chemicals don't cure it overnight.

Sorry billhill I thought of the size after I posted. Philes21, I started the lawn from scratch in April of 2006 when I built the house which is partly the reason to lack of thatch. In about July 2006 I hired Chemlawn to do the ferts and "lime". I felt that they did a fair job, but thought they charged a good bit. In April of this year Scotts called and swore up and down that they could do a better job than Chemlawn at a little less price. He stated that all Chemlawn puts down was liquid fert and that they (Scotts) put down pellets which would be more healthy for the root system. (Remind you I really didn't know anything about lawn care) So with that said, I thought what the heck and went with them. Scotts started off pretty good. My lawn was looking good and weeds were not a problem. Then..... in mid June I started getting weeds throughout my lawn. When they came, they wouldn't treat my entire lot, skipping corners and the tree lawn. I made my calls to their office stating that I wasn't satisfied and after the third call I wanted to speak to management. Instead, they sent yet another service tech out that was not able to answer my questions (which were later answered here thanks to you guys and gals). After this, I was tired of calling them and decided to discontinue my serivce (a couple of weeks ago). I figured that I would be able to pick your brains enough to give me the ability to do it myself. So... with that said, I really didn't "save $210 over the last four years". I didn't take that offensively as I know you are here to help. As far as the NPK of the ferts that they used I am not sure. I know that both companies came at least once per month and that Chemlawn came twice in some months. During the dryer months I made sure to water deep every week. I have the water bills to prove it!! LOL!!! I did water in the evenings some times as I know now that I shouldn't do. With your suggestion, I plan on picking up some high nitrogen fertilizer tomorrow. I have kind of picked up on the fact that fertilizer is fertilizer is fertilizer as far as brands go. Is this true? I realize that there are different NPK ratios and additives, but to the extent of brands, are they all made by the same company and packaged differently?

Hi Scamp, Without actually looking at one of the leaves it is impossible to guess correctly what you actually have going on. I agree with Ian, best to take a sample in somewhere to a tree expert. Juniper and Cedars are host to rust deseases so it wouldn't surprise me if it is indeed a type of rust desease since there are so many Junipers/Cedars growing in Ontario. The easiest way to tell if there is a host close by would be after a warm spring rain. The host will present these bright orange horn ike growths usually on the tips of branches. You can see pictures of them by googling the images for cedar rust. No known cure that I've heard of. :-( Cindi