I would put down Bayer 24 hour killer with dylox to limit any further damage. I discovered I had a diffuse grub problem a few weeks ago. I actually put back down areas I pulled up that still had some green and with a lot of water and fertilizer, the stuff actually survived and grew back roots. I can't believe it but I actually had no significant dead areas from it. A couple of dessert plate dead spots filled in (kbg). How much you put back down would depend on how much green you see. Since you are already watering/fertilizing for the seeds, hopefully the stuff you put down will regrow roots. I suspect this was a bad year for grubs.

Bob, Thought I would share a little tale about skunks and grubs. I live on an island off the coast of Massachusetts that until the 1960's had no skunks, but provoked by the eternal desire for the perfect lawn a gentleman brought from the mainland a single pair. Without a single predator it took no time to become an invasive pest, the destruction of my lawn in search of grubs always far exceeds any damage that might be done by the grubs. These critters are not the cute little Pepe LaPewee that one might think, on early morning runs I have been chased a number of times by a mom with her babies. My daughter was sprayed when startling one on her bicycle and my dog has been sprayed so often it has become part of our routine. Our local rural legend has always clearly named the individual who brought the pair of skunks to the island and a few years ago when included in a book on local oral history the poor fellow tried to clear his name but you know how legends are...truth matters little. Now if your really looking for trouble moles like grubs as well. kt

There are several members of the Scarab Beetle family, japanese Beetles are one, that lay eggs in the soil that become these "C" shaped grubs we are all taught to hate with a passion. Research at several universities has found that if the population of the grubs is around 10 per square foot you can have a problem but that fewer then 5 per square foot are not. The adult beetles lay the eggs in July and August and they hatch and are then very susceptible to Milky Spore Disease, "Bacillus popilleae" which they must ingest as they feed. As the soil cools these grubs will move down further into the soil for the winter and they stop feeding, but in the spring, as the soil warms, they come back toward the surface to feed for a short time before they pupate to become the adult beeltes. Milky Spore Disease is effective, for a short time during the early stages of these grubs life, shortly after they hatch so it should be applied in early August, at the latest. Milky Spore Disease is also a very passive means of control. You put it down and then hope the grubs find it and ingest it, which is why those that need immediate gratification find it not vey effective. Beneficial nematodes, which eat the grubs can be applied about the same time or a little later. GrubX is not an acceptable organic solution because it is a broad spectrum poison that will kill many of the soil insects, both beneficial and harmful.

Know your enemy : Identifying grub damage Symptoms of white grub infestation include wilting of grass in patches, eventually turning brown or dying, sod that pulls up easily, in one piece, with the white grubs then visible underneath, feeding on the roots. Increased feeding activity of birds, moles, raccoons,etc. are another sign, you may notice holes in the sod where critters have been digging. The damage is most noticeable in Fall or in dry spells, though serious infestations may be visible in Spring. Dead brown areas can have other causes, such as pet urine, improper use of fertilizer or insecticide, turf diseases or improper mowing, so be sure to identify the problem before trying to treat it! In the case of grubs, if the insects are not easily visible just under the turf, there is no point in treating for them. The usual suspects.... The white grubs you will find feasting on grass roots are the larvae of several members of the beetle family, having an idea WHO you're hosting helps in controlling them. All are fat white C-shaped grubs, with brown heads and six legs, but the larvae of the May or June beetle can easily be 2" in length. This species can remain underground up to four years before becoming a winged adult, so timing of chemical controls is not as crucial, though they must be applied when the ground is warm enough for the grubs to be actively feeding. Japanese beetle larvae are smaller, about 1/2 inch, and have a noticeable V-shaped pattern on the 'raster', the dark bristly area at the end of the abdomen. Japanese beetles complete their life cycle in one year, laying eggs in mid-July which hatch in early August, chemical controls should be applied at that time while larvae are most susceptible. Masked chafer grubs are similar to Japanese beetle larvae in size, but lack the V-pattern on the raster.Unlike Japanese beetles, the adults of this species are short-lived, and do not eat while in the winged state. Their life cycle is similar, with August being the time to apply chemical controls. Dates given above for applications are most applicable for Zone 5, your local County Cooperative Extension Service will be happy to help you with timing treatments in your specific area. Any pesticide you choose MUST be labeled for use on white grubs, and label directions MUST be followed exactly. Preventing grub infestations: biological controls There are a few natural controls available to treat your lawn BEFORE grubs become a problem. Milky spore disease, which is most effective against Japanese beetles, and to a lesser extent against May/June beetles. The bacteria that cause the disease affect only white grubs, and after proper 'inoculation' into a lawn area, remain active in the soil for years. The bacteria need to be present in the soil BEFORE the grubs begin feeding to be most effective, as the disease can take months to kill established grubs. Beneficial Nematodes are microscopic, nonsegmented worms that occur naturally in soil all around the world. Steinernema carpocapsae and Steinernema feltiae prey on ants, termites and the larval and grub stages of various beetles, weevils, armyworms, cutworms, chafers, webworms, borers, maggots, fleas, fungus gnats (sciarid flies). Once they are released, the nematodes seek out host insects and enter their prey through body openings and emit an endo-toxin that results in death for the host insect within 48 hours. The nematodes reproduce and their offspring feed on the insect cadaver and emerge to seek out new hosts. Nematodes are easy to use. They are shipped in a formulation that you mix with water. The solution can be applied using a watering can; hose end, backpack, or pump sprayers; or through irrigation or misting systems. Always release early in the morning or late afternoon when temperatures are cooler. Generally, 1 vial of Beneficial Nematodes will effectively treat approximately 900 sq. ft. of conventional garden rows. Make releases every 3-6 weeks or until infestation subsides.Nematodes can be stored in the refrigerator (do not freeze!) for up to 2 months.