Grubs in Neighbor's lawn - should I treat mine?
jrodriguez90
13 years ago
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bpgreen
13 years agohazydavy58
13 years agoRelated Discussions
How to treat for grubs/japanese beetle with no toxic poisons
Comments (4)I put mine down about 2-3 years ago. I still have an occasional grub spot, but not near as much. Also, this year I noticed I had very few june bugs, my guess, its working. Up until about a year ago, I would still use pesticides for grubs. The way this stuff works, you put it down in grid piles on the lawn (there is a spreadable kind now). It washes into the soil and remains dormant. A hungry grub comes along eating your grass roots. When it passes through a milky spore area, it ingests some. the stuff breeds out of control in the grub and it dies from this in a few days. Where that grub dies is a new concentrated spot of milky spore. So for this stuff to really spread through the yard, you need a large grub population. Once you get past 2-5 years, I guess you dont have to worry about the grubs....See MoreGrub-Ex-when to treat lawn/garden?
Comments (7)My Master Gardener agent teaches that the best time to treat the lawn for Grubs is in Mid August, when the new crop of eggs have hatched and they are most suseptible to the effects of the grub killer. He says the grubs are too mature in the spring and the grub killer is mostly ineffective if applied then. My lawn seems to agree with him. Here's What Ohio State recommends and they seem to agree with Indiana. "Chemical Controls - Insecticides The grubs are best controlled when they are small and actively feeding near the soil surface, usually late July to mid-August. However, with the development of new grub control chemistry (e.g., imidacloprid [Merit] and halofenozide [MACH2]), applications in June and July have sufficient residual activity to kill the new grub populations as they come to the soil surface in late July through August. Control of grubs in late-fall or early-spring is difficult, at best, because the grubs are large and may not be feeding. Only trichlorfon (Dylox) and carbaryl (Sevin) formulations are available for such rescue treatments. The key to good control is to make an even application and water thoroughly." Taken from The Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet Here is a link that might be useful: Control of Japanese Beetle Adults and Grubs in Home Lawns...See MoreLawn Overgrown by Weeds-Lawn dead-what should I do?
Comments (9)While bermuda can be beautiful, it is a hassle to keep it looking nice. It is one of the few grasses that should be mowed at the mower's lowest setting. Partially due to that, it should be mowed twice a week during the summer to keep from scalping it every week. Bermuda also needs as much water as all the other lawns if you want it to be green. The idea that it needs less water depends on your tolerance for brown grass. When bermuda gets very dry it becomes dormant and turns brown. When St Augustine dries out completely, it dies. Thus you have to water St Aug to keep it alive but you could stop watering bermuda altogether and it would remain alive but brown. Bermuda also needs monthly doses of high nitrogen fertilizer to stay green. This is to say that you can have a bermuda lawn but if you are not willing to maintain it, it is going to look raggedy. It can also thin out and become a haven for weeds. Back in the 50s, before the modern herbicides became inexpensive, when you bought grass seed you got a mixture of a fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, rye, and even clover. The idea was that one of the grasses would dominate in almost any soil and you could have a green lawn with multiple species of plants. That approach is one you might consider. You are in the transition zone meaning that you would be able to grow almost any grass....See MoreAdvice on aerating lawn - should I hire? Can I do it? Should I buy?
Comments (37)morpheouspa. Gloves down here for a moment. What claims are you referring to that I have made about mechanical aeration? Granted, I do claim that there are purposes for which the employment of mechanical aeration can be useful and it irritates me to no end that people peremptorily discount mechanical aeration as being without any use. (in the past couple of months, I've seen were you have suggested? that plug aeration might be an aid in pursuing some outcome.) Are you saying that I have advocated mechanical aeration as a necessary continued lawn care practice? (Do you advocate the application of a surfactant as a necessary continuing lawn care practice?) Is it necessary to spam this site with links to hundreds of university turf programs that recommend home owner lawn aeration not only as a continuing lawn care practice, but for the prevention of disease, thatch LDS etc.? For what purpose? They are just conclusory statements, No more valid than anything you or anyone else can produce. What you linked to, rather than belittle you, look at the facts: First some of what they call aeration is plowing (bad for me) but anyway I counted 13 studies and of those, the majority showed some improvement to crop yield, none showed a decline. They do,make a conclusory statement that aeration will cause increased weeds. OK fine. Based on what? No ancillary evidence even? Did they atleast credit dchall for the quote or maybe daniel? So even though your site actually supports that aeration results in slightly greater % crop production than non aeration, I say irrelevant and useless for any support for either of us. This argument has been going on forever, but if you take the time to understand and observe, there are logical conclusions you can come to and when applied either work or don't. If X then Y, put it to the test, and if it repeats, then continue, whether it is surfacants, aeration, corn meal or Bayer. So recommend on your experience and give your rational when challenged. Caveat emptor. My goal for my lawn, and for those I give advice to, is to obtain a turf that in the shortest time possible will only require mowing, watering and fertilization. I endeavor to employ the least expensive, least labor intensive, but most effective methods for a healthy turf AND soil and those are the ones I promote. My questions were for the reader and therefor need no response from you . I will no longer joust this windmill with you or anyone else, but I will call out anyone who "make [an unsupportable} claim... or [spew} any other blatant lie"...See Moregoren
13 years agojrodriguez90
13 years agobpgreen
13 years agotheturfguru1972
9 years agome na
3 years ago
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