Ive called my local university co-op extention on this as it doesnt seem as if anything that will supress something as small as mold and spores, would easily be killed by an oil application. The catapillars need to eat to have bts and other bacterias, g if the get hit by oil that may very well kill them or cut back. The bt breaksdown quickly in sunlight. So it is better to spray that first a day or two before oils at evening giving the little boogars time to injest it. Bt takes time to act within. It takes about 2-3 days to kill. In the next spray if you must spray oils then spray then. Or you can find a biological "pre-emergent" (pe) there are organic ones. A few days after that up to 7 days release beneficial insects such as wasps, pirate bugs, mealy bug destrpyers, what ever pest you need to control. There are many. Disease is now the biggest threat & there are beneficial sprays just for disease.. oils work ok but there are a few beneifial baterias that kill and supress. Unfortunately, you have to spray more than once but with this prescription you wont need to spray as often. Ive only sprayed once since june, i live in a coastal area lots of fog and wet. Now today i have to spray...two months between sprays darn well worth the cost and time.

Thanks for all your info. Yeah, I think I was duped into thinking it was "safer" insecticide because of its name. We don't use pesticides otherwise. I don't usually have bad aphids very often-but they were AWFUL this year on my LUPINES! On the roses, I usually just shake them off or spray them with water. (Although they do love my Winchester Cathedral!!) I tried the flour/pantyhose routine for aphids several years ago...it was a disaster! The flour may have suffocated the aphids, but I couldn't get it off the roses with jets of water, so I had a gluey/goopy mess! LOL I guess I'll have Gary teach me about spraying the fungicide he uses...just thought there might be an easier way to handle BS. I may be wrong about having tried the Cornell spray, Jim. Maybe I'll try it again, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't kill existing BS spores, which is what I have now (because Gary hasn't been that diligent this year with the spraying). Thanks everyone! :0) Phyl

Neem products, including Azamax, can kill off many of the predators of Whitefly, or any other insect pest. Whitefly is best controlled by predators, not insecticides. Why is Whitefly such a problem in your garden? http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7401.html kimmq is kimmsr

Agreed with Dave on all points, i've seen plant toxicity after a strong Neem concoction was applied. It does not do too much for bacterial spot on peppers in my experience (i alternated Neem for at least 2 years in the past, it was def better than using nothing though). It will kill Japanese beetles after they've ingested sprayed pepper leaves. As for Fungus gnats, i've had previous encounters in my seed trays. The most long lasting solution i've tried is Mosquito Dunks. Break one apart into a gallon of water, shake well & let it sit overnight, then soak your potting soil thoroughly. It takes a couple of weeks and multiple soakings because of their two week life cycle, but you'll never see them again. Dunks employ a certain bacteria so if your tap water is heavy with chlorine/chloramines then neutralize it first with a few drops of lemon juice (Ascorbic acid or Sodium Ascorbate, etc). Steve