I plant strawberries for 1 season only (and this is not uncommon here in Germany). Get good runners from the best bearers (usually the lousy bearers have the best runners and vice versa, but as they are clones of the mother plant you'd get lousy bearers). Early August they are cut and planted on a sunny patch watered well. And in late Aug. to mid Sept they are planted in their new patch. And next spring good harvest of large fruits, in our area the 1st year harvest is the best: healthiest plants, biggest berries, highest yield. Rinse and repeat. Planting space 1 foot or slightly more between rows and 1 foot or slightly less in the row. Try to get a good cultivar, I live with quite loamy/clay soil here >>TeniraAnd strawberries are hungry and thirsty, on lighter soils a good manure digging in and good water supply will increase yields. I harvest +-1/2 pound per plant in a decent year (a nasty late frost counts as bad year). In 2nd and 3rd year yields are still decent.

My guess is that that plant was in a 4-6" PVC pipe system. Those kinds of roots always amaze me. I'm also gonna guess that white buckets are not opaque enough. I had problems with my indoor system and algae in white buckets until I wrapped them in black plastic. That said, if you wrap buckets in black plastic for an outside system, I would assume that the water temps would be out of control hot. some solutions are wrapping the buckets in black and then white or wrapping in the foil tape or wrapping in an insulation such as Reflectix. Or you can make a recirculating dwc system and keep the reservoir in the shade and/or cooled. Adding ice, burying it, or using a chiller of some sort. I really really wanted to do a dwc system outdoors but I'm scared of having to fight algae and I think I have decided on a drip to waste system. But I'm not sure yet and I have several months to research and figure out what the hell I want to do. I read an article in maximum Yield a while back about a guy that did a pretty good size outdoors grow but I didn't see many details about the system. I do know that he used white buckets though. Maybe an additive such as aquashield or something was used and cut down on the algae. I rambled on and I'm aware. Hopefully some of that made sense.

@ heavenly -, There are 3 things to be considered in trying to start from seeds: 1) GERMINATING seeds: For this step you will need a warm environment: Heat Mat, Top of your frig, Top of your water heater. Depending on How big an operation you needs, you can germinated in paper towel or directly in the starter soil. GROWING seedling: 2) you will need proper lighting. A window sill, is IFFY. Fluorescent Shop Lights are the most practical way to go. Again, depending on HOW much is involve , you will need and investment upward of $20 bucks. I personally have two $20 bucks system( =$40.00) and I will have about 30 pepps, 30 toms, 30 misc. THAT is the number of seeds now. So I can start/grow 2 or 3 of them in one 3 1/2" pot. So roughly I will have about 40 pots. To give my self some training( though have done it in the past) I am test germinating and growing a few right now, so that I won't have surprises down the road. 3) OK. once your seedling started, you will have to give them an environment that is neither too cold or too hot. I would say 60F to 70F should be fine. On the cooler side is better. WHEN TO START: Generally 6 weeks before your average Last Frost date. Say, Your last frost date is May 15: Now count back 6 weeks. That will be like end of March (roughly). First time I did this, I only started a select few tomatoes and peppers that I could not possibly find seedlings for. So I would suggest to start small scale this year. Good Luck !

Hi EO, Well,the green house is 22 x 65. We bought it used, in the spring,the frame and shelving were easy to install,we had to order a new poly cover for it,the company we ordered it from sold us a white poly, we know know it is the wrong cover for growing,so we will replace it in the spring,(again):0( My hubby is in the process of instaling lights,and a couple of fans,my hope is,that i will be able to winter over about 8oo hosta in pots,i was told,that would work, IF,we kept the fans going all winter,the doors open,and the side doors opes also,we were told we COULD place them on the racks,they did not have to be on the ground. In times past,i have wintered them over on the ground, some time in Dec.we go out and turn them over on their sides,but,that is proving to be a lot of work,in the cold.For so many hosta. I really would like to just place them in the green house after they go dorment,and not think about them again for a few months,then, some time in March,start to warm it up a little,but don't really know if this will work or not. We have asked a couple of people and get conflicting advice as to what we should do????????????????? Is there a easy way to this maddness? Thank you EO,and any one else who has an idea. Carol