I just registered here after reading all the posts regarding the fiskars and bermuda at the lower settings. I purchased a fiskars a couple of weeks ago and noticed the chopping look and the grabbing of the grass at the lower settings too. I laid my bermuda 419 in my front yard a couple of months ago and have been trying to keep it at the lowest setting like it was from the sod farm. When the mower does not jam up and stop dead it its tracks I get a rippled look like someone else mentioned earlier. I was going to post a couple of pics but can't seem to figure out how. I have sent an email with pics to fiskars explaining the difficulty with my bermuda and will post a follow up if they can offer a fix. I don't want to have to send it back since I ordered it online and I think it is a nice mower, but if it won't glide through my bermuda, what's the use? Someone mentioned that it needs a roller on the front instead of the two little wheels, what do you mean by that? I also have scott's classic 20" but didn't notice a roller on the front. I have read this explanation somewhere else too, but would like some clarification. Thanks, so far I love the advice given here.

Ron It sounds like you and I have the same tastes. The UK has an excellent climate for growing fine fescues and colonial bent. Those grasses can be closely mowed to around .05" Mowing them short creates the putting or bowling green appearance. Having a reel mower helps but you will not find reel mowers in the US like the ones in the UK and the ones in the US are too expensive IMO. Forget about trying to import one as it's cost prohibitive and nobody will want to ship it. You can grow these grasses but during the somewhat short period of time in between unbearably cold and unbearably hot, you can mow these types of grasses short. I grow similar grasses, creeping red fescue and creeping bent and use a manual reel mower and a Snapper 19" rotary which is the only rotary mower makerketed in the US that will cut to a half an inch. It can be adjusted quickly for mowing the other grasses I have taller. You can get an optional bag kit which I have. Good equipment to start out with considering your close-mowing season may be short. I've tried a TruCut gas powered mower for a couple of weeks and was happy with it but I couldn't justify buying one for my small yard. Compared to every other residential yard out there it looks enough like a putting green to me and everyone else so who cares. Grass less than .75" doesn't stripe all that noticeably and to do it you need a lot of weight and the universal rollers you can attach to mowers suck - don't waste your money. The snapper does some degree of striping on it's own. Subtle stripes that last about a week if there's no rain. Maintain the grass higher in the summer then that's when you have stripes. In my back yard I grow tall fescue and KBG. I don't recommend cutting either one of those short. KBG can tolerate close mowing but it is not dense enough and grows way too quickly so it doesn't really lend itself to that close mowing. Using a reel mower on tall fescue or KBG and mownig high is not going to accomplish what you want. 'Twill look nice but it's not going to be a bowling green.

I have a Scotts Classic, and honestly, it is no harder to use than a gas powered push mower that isn't self propelled. The trick is to keep it cut regularly, don't let it get too high between cuttings. As for how well it would work on Bermuda, I do not know. I'm cutting St. Augustine and centipede with mine, and it does a wonderful job. Other brands to consider would be Sunlawn and Brill, though they are quite a bit pricier than my Scotts. What I like about my Scotts is it cuts up to 3 inches high, and has a 20 inch wide cut. The Brill and Sunlawn cut considerably lower and narrower.

I have both a Brill and a Scotts classic, and they both have their own advantages and disadvantages. For sure, I wouldn't use them on a big lawn (my house sits on slightly less than 1/4 acre). For the purposes of comparison, here's a rundown if anyone is interested in either mower. AFAIK, the sunlawn is similar to the Brill Maneuverability: The brill is much lighter than the scotts, and the rollers on the Brill make turning around obstacles much easier than the Scotts with the wheels. However, the Scotts is a bit easier to stay in a straight track because of this. Also, I find the Scotts better for hills, because the Brill is so light, the cut is compromised especially when going uphill or cutting sideways along a hill (where the wheels are slightly "lifted" up due to the light weight and slow the blade down). Advantage: for flat lawns with many obstacles, the Brill. For hilly lawns with no/few obstacles, the Scotts. The Blades: A lot of hype is touted with the contact free blade system of the Brill (and Sunlawn) over the scissor contact type blades of the Scotts (and many other traditional reel mowers). Yes, the Brill is much easier to push around when "not cutting grass", but when you are actually mowing, the difference is very little in the force required (and I'd attribute the difference to the narrower cutting width of the Brill). I also find I need to adjust the Brill once or twice a season for optimum performance (not the 4 years or whatever they claim) though it is very easy to do. There is also a good reason the Brill only has a maximum cutting height of 1.8": the cut quality suffers at its highest setting (in unevenness), but cuts awesome at the lower settings. I guess the blade needs to dig in lower where the leaf blade is stiffer and doesn't cut as well when the grass is longer and "floppier" You also need to maintain a decent speed when cutting with the Brill to get the best cut. The scissor blades of the Scotts are much less dependent on height and mowing speed than the Brill in getting a good cut. I'm not sure about sharpening interval, as I have only had the scotts a few months, but it is still cutting great. So, in my opinion, the contact free blade system might have an advantage in sharpening interval (with easy adjustments now and then), I prefer the cut of the Scotts overall, unless you are cutting short (under 1 1/2 in), where the Brill is probably equal. The dreaded wheel lines of the Scotts: Yes, you notice the lines, but they are less pronounced the shorter the cut, and depending on the grass type (I hardly notice them on my front lawn which is KBG, whereas it is more noticeable in the back with the KBG, fescue and rye mixture even at the same cutting height) The Brill with it's rollers has a much less noticeable track, and in fact due to it's slightly less quality cut (compared to scissor blades), looks more "natural", or like the lawn hasn't been cut recently (but nice and even, not that the lawn hasn't been cut!) So, I think neither is better than the other, it depends on your conditions. For a lawn with few obstacles and turns, but has hills, I'd recommend the Scotts even though it is heavier. For flat lawns with a lot of obstacles and curves and only minor grades, "and" you always cut shorter than 1.8", the Brill would be good. I'm glad I have both, as my lawn is in between the conditions that would prefer one or the other (some hills out back, flat in front, some obstacles and curves). If I only could have one, I would pick the Scotts mainly due to the higher cutting setting available. I will be pulling out my Brill when it gets cooler and am cutting shorter. As for my lawn, I get many good complements from the neighbors, who all use power rotary mowers, and some who even have sprinkler systems ( I use oscillating sprinklers when needed, and fertilize organically 90% of the time)