A couple of full tree shots. The more I look at this Fireglow the more the ultimate shape solidifies in my mind. I'm very glad that Al (tapla) encouraged me to remove the main trunk on this tree. The lower limb is going to turn into a beautiful 2-3' tall tree. The basic shape of this tree is there. There are multiple plains (vertically) and multiple clusters (in the round). Now, over the next couple of years, I need to put into practice what I've been reading about judicious pruning, bud pinching (to reduce internode length and finish each limb), and partial defoliation (to reduce leaf size). Probably my favorite tree at this point. The Corallinum (due mostly to Al's help in pruning) is developing its top on on side. This tree certainly has shown resilience after loosing alot of it's root mass when dug out of the ground this spring. Now to keep the top in check so the bottom back buds and begins to fill in. Some back budding is already beginning low on this tree. Yay! Thanks for the encouragement and guidance Al. Blake

You should be able to plant all winter in your location. The soil will stay a lot warmer than the air, and roots continue to develop and establish much of the winter. It's quite incorrect to think that the roots of woody trees and shrubs (or much of anything) stop growing in the fall and winter. Even deciduous trees that are fully dormant should be planted in the fall/winter in your climate. The roots will grow! You probably have several months of establishment time ahead of you, until the soil gets cold enough at root level to slow down growth. By that time, unless your trees are extremely large, they should be fully established. As a matter of fact, fall is THE ideal time for planting in warm climates. The top growth slows down so that the plant can concentrate on root development. It's a good thing. It used to be common knowledge; I wonder why it isn't anymore. Your trees should be well established by the time hot temperatures roll around in the spring of next year. The last thing you want your new trees to experience is bud break, new growth, and hot temperatures on a root system that isn't developed yet. Be sure to follow proper planting methods...dig the hole no deeper than is needed for the rootball to sit at soil grade or higher....but two to three times wider. Do NOT add soil amendments of any kind into the hole or mix with the backfill. Use the native soil. Mulch with a 2 to 3 inch layer of something organic like pine straw, bark chips, etc. but do not pile the mulch up against the trunk. Be sure to keep the root ball watered and moist. Fall is the time for planting in all warmer climates. Actually, this is true for anyplace where the soil doesn't freeze solid. Don't trust information you get from HomeDepot. Once year, I over heard a clerk telling a customer that she could plant the cut Christmas tree she had just purchased in the ground after the holidays. A CUT Fraser Fir! Lordy.

We have had rain today also that we weren't supposed to have. Only about 6/10 of an inch so far and as still a very light rain right now. It looks like it won't be much more than that (famous last words), but like you, every drop right now is runoff. I saw that a bridge east of Dallas in Hunt county was washed out this afternoon but hadn't heard about the Lavon dam. I'll have to look that up. I have been checking the aquifer daily. It will likely be more than 671 feet tonight, up from less than 640 and the highest it's been since 2011. We're in pretty good shape right now, no watering day restrictions for the first time in several years. Lake Medina was at 3.2% three months ago and tomorrow will likely be over 70%. Those sound like some slugs that could wipe out a hosta in a hurry. Wow. I hope they stay away from my yard! I had never seen slugs or snails on any of my hosta before this year. I'm picking small snails off of them daily lately, but have not seen any slugs, although I do have some major damage to a couple that I suspect was a slug so am always on the lookout for them. That happened several weeks ago. I'm also concerned about the new organic raised bed soil I have been experimenting with this year. It seems to drain pretty well under normal circumstances but with all of this rain you can tell by picking up a pot that it's holding more water than the MG. But no matter, the pots are going to stay wet through this crazy spring unless we move them under cover. I'm just letting mine sit out and will let the strongest survive. Right now everything looks pretty good, minus the major beating some took from the early season bug infestation. Bugs and endless rain. What's next, frogs falling from the sky? :)

Hello! I'm quite the newbie for the most part when it comes to houseplants and found my way here after several google searches. I have two houseplants that I love but just aren't "happy". I have a feeling it's due to the soil and light but was wondering if there is anything else that might be an issue. First up is my monstera, Meg. I bought her in March and she was doing ok. I lost a leaf or two so potted up in some basic potting mix. After reading through the forums for the last few days at various points, I realise that that was quite a rookie thing to do. Now she looks like this. Here are a couple of incredibly sad leaves, do these need pruning? And if so where on earth do you prune Monstera as they seem to be the newest leaves? Is is she beyond saving? There hasn't been any new growth since I potted up so I've moved her from the room she was in to a slightly brighter ne facing room. I'm considering repotting using gritty mix but I'm unsure if it's too late in the year? And then there is Arabella Fiddle Leaf Fig. She was a housewarming present from last year. She's been potted up twice (seriously, I regret these actions ) and the top two leaves are new growth. The three slightly below I'm sure are mechanical damage. She currently lives in front of a SE facing window, or at least within 1m with moderate direct sunlight for part of the morning. I moved her recently as I don't think she was getting enough light where she was, especially considering my husbands propensity to not bothering opening the curtains of a morning. There are a few crispy leaves and I'm uncertain if there is any new growth at the top as I'm watching her like the proverbial boiling pot. There are a couple of buds that are peeking out that seem to be getting more pronounced. So my vague plan with Arabella is to repot into gritty mix and potentially chop off the top third just above the bud that is pictured. Hopefully that would encourage branching and strengthening of lower tree? I might be able to propagate the cut off top and start from scratch on a second plant if I do. I love these plants and don't want them to die, Meg hasn't even reached a level of maturity where her leaves have split yet! Basically any advice or opinions on pruning in the case of Meg, repotting of both of them using gritty mix and my general plans for Arabella will be more than welcome! My main concern is I've left it too late to fix any of these problems this year and I'm unsure if they'll last the winter. Side note, I didn't realise you could see my sad succulent Florain the background of my pictures of Arabella! I may attempt to propogate more succulents from her as she seems less than happy too.