Finding information on growing blueberries in California was only a bit less than difficult but this ATTRA publication is one of the best all around even though it addresses growing east of the rockies only.
From correspondance with someone in San Diego I know the soil in that area tends to be alkaline clay and difficult to change the pH enough to grow blueberries.

Here is a link that might be useful: ATTRA publication

I know that fish emulsion fertilizers always have a pH of 3-5..pretty spankin' acidic

Both of you are so helpful--thank you so much!

Kimmsr, that's a fabulous link! Print version is going into my binder for blueberries.

it better be organic, I didn't know the pH of fish emulsion, & am thrilled to hear how acidic it is since it has worked (w. liquid seaweed) so much better than any other fertiliser for me so far (but have only grown roses until this year!).

I tried growing blueberries a couple of years ago, but they weren't happy campers. I also have very alkaline soil.

Love using fish emulsion so this was good news about its pH level.

I have recently been reading about the use of vinegar to raise the acidity of the soil. Haven't tried it yet for this but I keep a spray bottle handy for spot treating unwanted weeds and grass.
Has anyone tried vinegar for increasing soil acidity?

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Here is a link that might be useful: 131 uses for Vinegar

I grow blueberries in containers. After seeing my wife's grandfather's results growing blueberries in soil I am considering try some in the ground as well.

His method of blueberries in the ground is planting in about 50% peat which is acidic and topdressing annually with garden sulphur (lowers ph). His soil is around 6.8ph without adjustment.

His bushes are 25 years old and he says they do not produce well in any year he 'forgets' the sulphur top dressing.

My method in containers is to grow in 50% peat, 25% compost and 25% pine chips/needles.

I water with rain water except during the summer when I run out and the skies aren't offering it often enough. Then I use tapwater with 1 cup of vinegar per 5 gallons of water. I have used ph test paper to determine this results in ph 4.5 water. Your mileage may vary depending on the mineral content of your water source, but should be close.

Hollytone is a good fert and is for acid lovers, but for those who wish to be strictly organic, it isn't an organic fert, but organic based. It contains lots of organic goodness, but also contains a small amount of synthetic fert like triple super phosphate. Each grower will have to decide for themselves if that is acceptable to them.

If your soil is alkaline to begin with I would recommend giving containers a try. This will require frequent watering and they are shallow rooted and do not like drying out. You also need to pay attention to everything added to the container as the small soil volume can result in rapid ph shifts. The rapid ph shift in containers is what makes it easier to grow them in containers as long as no alkaline material is added.

Rahma & Username, You both answered my other, unspoken questions--Thank you for info on vinegar! I knew I didn't want to use aluminum sulfate as a soil acidifer since aluminium has been implicated in Alzheimer's & was abt. to ask abt. organic acceptablility of iron sulfate & ammonium sulfate (sp.?). Now I have a range of vinegar additions that will likely be safe to use for watering the bb until I can get the pH paper (if the pharmacies here don't stock it).

I had planned on keeping the bb in pots so your info is much appreciated, Username. The soil here is really alkaline & terrible drainage--hardpan. The bb will be double-potted to protect those shallow roots from heat of our High Desert summer. I am now trying to see just how much sun they'll take (currently, they're in heavily dappled shade from late a.m. through p.m. They are Southern Highbush bb & seem to be really tough plants. They pop right back up when start to droop (I keep them on dry side, since I think they don't like wet feet). The bb were already bearing when I got them a week ago & they sure do taste good as well as being such decorative bushes! They seem like they might have a lot of potential for this climate if I could just get the acidity right for soil and fertilizing. With everyone's tips, I think they should do just fine!

Snowbush: I am wondering now about trying to grow blueberries again since I am addicted to blueberries and yogurt everynight (in place of ice cream!) Tell me about your variety, southern highbush, and where you got them, etc. I don't know what variety I had before. I am north of Sacramento in the hot, hot central valley and figured I couldn't baby them enough a couple of years ago. But I
am tempted to try again. I am discovering that whatever they say grows in FULL SUN doesn't apply to my area because it's too bloody HOT. Nothing really appreciates this sun except my tomato plants. I'm thinking dappled shade in the afternoon might be good.

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Rahma, I'm just starting to learn abt. bb, but there seem to be a few basic types. The Lowbush are northern. I don't know if they'd grow in a hot, arid area. There are also Highbush both Northern and Southern, as well as Rabbiteye blueberries. I was lucky enough to find 4 different Southern Highbush varieties--Jubilee, Misty, O'Neal, and South Moon--in pots at Lowes. They already had berries on them. Since they were only $7 apiece, I decided to try them all. The O'Neals have started to ripen and they taste really good to me.

It's so nice to know that tomatoes can actually take high heat as I'd like to try them!

I was able to take a quick look at yr. blog--it is lovely to look at & vy. interesting. Loved reading abt. hedgerows, seeing yr. hedge, & learned something new! Definitely going back! Gotta learn abt. solarization!

Thanks Snowbush for the bb info. They are going to opening a Lowes here soon. I will see if they carry the southern Highbush varieties. I didn't know anything about bb so you got me started at least.

What about sphagnum peat moss ..I think it's acidic.. also elemental sulphur is supposed to release slowly in the soil.. are these organic enough?

Both are organic and approved for use by the NOSB (National Organics Standard Board)(US).

Both are advised for blueberries.

At the risk of starting another long diatribe, buttercupia, I will pose for you that peat moss is a non renewable resource and should not be part of an organic gardeners list of things to use unless you live in the desert and have no other form of organic matter available. Most all of us have available, every year, tons of an organic material that most often simply gets thrown away, a mayterial that is loaded with nutrients and that your soil bacteria and earthworms like much better that they ever will peat moss.

Before you give up on growing blueberries....order the Sunshine Blue variety which grows well in soils with a higher pH. Available from a number of on-line nurseries such as Parks Seed. You can try just one to see how it does as it is self fertile and thrives in high heat. A heavy producer over a long period of time. Very tasty fruit. BTW, the catalogs all say it is a dwarf blueberry. Not so, as it grows to about 4' and is suitable to place in foundation plantings. Pretty shaped bush.

try ground up citrus peals

These are interesting further comments! Thanks! They have made me think & now have more questions (sorry!). I'm still siting the bb before double potting in 1/2 wine barrels in next week. Since they don't look rootbound, will hold off actual repotting until dormancy as long as they look healthy.

I haven't decided on a soil mix yet. I know Username's works & it looks like bb really like a lot of organic matter. My intuitive response would be to use this kind of soil mix (I get all excited abt. compost, earthworms, etc. although I haven't yet learned how to make compost in our vy. hot dry climate). My other choice would be a (very)simplified version of the fast-draining soil mixes discussed on the Container forum. Since I haven't been able to find the aggregate that forms an important part of those mixes, I experimented by just cutting either potting soil or amendment 50/50 with fine bark mulch. I then potted up my bareroots in it. It seemed so counterintuitive, but everything (so far) has thrived. It seems (for this hot, dry climate) to avoid having the outer soil area overheat & dry out while inner area remains damp to wet. Yes, it sure does need a lot of watering! It seems, however, to be much less tricky to water, i.e., you can water a bit early without danger of overwatering. I had lost a couple of rosebushes from overwatering here in the desert. Lest anyone reading this thinks abt. using same type of mix, let me point out that I still need to study the possible components of soil mixes & that problems w. the mix I have used may develop! Best to study to mixes others have used successfully over longer period of time.

Username, do you think it would be necessary to repot bb using mix you described in year--couple years, i.e., would soil start to compact?

If anyone would like to suggest alternatives to peat moss which they have used, I'd love to consider them.

Kimmsr, would you mean leaves which are then composted? I ought to have quite a few of them when my espaliered pear and apple trees have grown a bit.

Nandina, thanks!! Sunshine Blue sounds like a dandy--it's on my list for next year. You are right, the name of the game with the climate here is experiment!

Squarefooterg, That's interesting! How are the ground citrus peels used?

Thank you all!

-- will pose for you that peat moss is a non renewable resource --

It is a completely renewable resource. Most peat in the US comes from Canada and the rate of harvest is less than the rate of growth. I understand that there are renewablity concerns for our friends on the other side of the pond, but that doesn't apply to the US/Canada.

Holly Tone ain't too bad.

In addition to the forums, books, and everything you can read, see if you can find a local organic nursery supply. We have one here and the guy who runs it has been invaluable to me as a source of info and products.

Another point, Aluminum Sulphate takes 2.5 times more than "Garden Sulfur" to achieve the same pH

I know this thread is a bit old, but for anyone out there looking, Paul James, the gardener guy said that mulching with used tea or coffee grounds about once a month is a great organic source of acid and nutrients for acid loving plants. It is recycling as well so good on all levels. If you are not a coffee or tea drinker you could always see if you can get some free used grounds at your local coffee shop.

Hi,

Just read an interesting series of posts in the 'Composting' forum which was close to your own posting. (It was entitled 'Coffee Grounds') One of the posts contained a link to an article concerning the addition of coffee grounds. Hunt this thing up and read it, because it was well researched and written

Used coffee grounds are not appreciably acidic. "Experts" that say it is are quoting old dogma.

Earthworms are reported to really love coffee grounds and since earthworms do not like soils very much outside the 6.0 to 7.0 pH range most plants prefer I would pose that coffee grounds are not as acidic as some would have us believe.

I don't know if Fertrell products are available in all localities, but they have an acidic fertilizer similar to Hollytone made of organic ingredients.
Ann