I will answer the questions that were asked of me, above. The sulfur that goes into the bottom of the "V" shaped hole is not mixed in with the dirt because I want it to be assimilated slowly, over a period of years. The only purpose of this application of sulfur is to counteract the tendency of the surrounding alkaline soil to raise the pH of my blueberry shrub. I don't know how effective this method is, I have never tried to prove that it accomplishes what I expect. The typical hole dimensions are 24 inches diameter by 16 inches deep. The reason for putting down sulfur in a ring, on the surface, is essentially historical and idiosyncratic. When I started growing blueberries, back around 1993, I did not have a local source of sulfur, so I was using white vinegar, 5% acidity, mixed with our local tap water, to lower soil pH. This method works, but the vinegar disappears in about a month, so you have to keep repeating the application over the growing season. It is not a practical method for lowering soil pH. When I finally picked up a pH meter, and found a local source of agricultural sulfur in 50 lb bags, I had maybe 16 blueberry shrubs already well established, and I did not want to dig them up, apply sulfur, and replant. So, I applied sulfur to the surface, and that is how I have been doing it ever since.

If you have a very large mixed collection of orchids you will find that some of them will bloom at times when high Nitrogen fertilizer is being used i.e in the warmer months of the year. In my opinion bloom booster is bulldust. Here is a link to a previous thread that contains much useful information. Here is a link that might be useful: Previous discussion

Thanks Sharon One thing I have noticed about the fertilizers targeted for tomato growing is that they have Calcium and Magnesium beside NPK. Otherwise they all have different NPK ratios. That is very relevant when you are growing in soil less medium and/or hydroponically. In most established garden soil chances are that there is enough Calcium and Magnesium. SOIL TEST. Having said the above, a soil test can be very useful. Then you apply what is lacking instead of shooting in the dark. Most soil tests results, that I have read here over the years, indicated that there is enough P . The reason appears to be due to the fact that plants uptake much less of it than N and K. The second reason is that P is attached to the soil and won't leach out as N and K. There are other crucial trace elements that plant need and can benefit from, such as Boron, Zinc , Manganese, Sulfur and Iron. Only a soil test can show a good picture. BTW: Next week I am going to take samples for analysis. Sey

Rootdigger, it's very possible that your family and mine could share a tomato garden. My wife likes the sweeter toms and I like the good old fashioned acid tasting varieties. Carolyn gave you a good list and she and Bill and Dave could all type "for a while" and still be adding to the list. Lots of good info above. This year, we (my wife and I) agreed on Cherokee Purple (OP) and somewhat on Golden Jubilee (OP). We tried Mountain Fresh (hybrid) and both liked it on BLT's. Digdirt named another I would have mentioned - Supersteak (hybrid) - wife didn't care for this one (too much acid). Some other's we grew this year that might be a good compromise that you both might like are Giant Tree (slightly acid, but not really over the top), Black From Tula (Nice size, great flavor), and Big Rainbow which might also be a good compromise. (all OP) For Cherry toms, Sungold for the sweet and SuperSweet 100 for the acid side. Super mild would fit Yellow Pear (OP), and nicely acid and sweet would fit Tumbling Tom Red (OP). Hope this gives you folks some ideas. Personal message to "Almost Retired" - RETIREMENT IS GOOD! Retirement is VERY GOOD!!!!!! You had mentioned in your first post above that you had at least some concern or maybe it was just interest in whether or not you could plant an acid and a sweet type and get crossed fruit. Cross pollination would happen in the first year of the fruit growing and would only show up the following year from saved seeds. But here's the problem. The probability of gettting a cross is very small and is normally referred to here as less than 5%. Plus, you won't know what the mix of traits are IF you DO get a cross until the grow out in the second year. AND, those traits have a strong chance of not being stable. (Lots of "CHANCE" in there - no real certainties) Take care. If you would like any of the OP's that I mentioned above, Email me your address and I'll send you some to try. Ted :>)