What to plant following what was planted depends. Cool season plants sucha as peas can be followed by tomatoes, peppers, etc. Cool, and long season plants such as the cabbage family will be there for the full growing season most places. Beans could follow lettuces which could then follow the beans. Lay out your garden and look at what you want to grow and which need to be in early and will fade out in heat. Then look at what you want to grow that should be planted during really warm weatehr and see where it fits in the total plan.

I am so trying that trianglejohn, I am like you I don't find it a problem to move my plant, except when heavy! I have them on trays, while I am hardening, and I am doing a low low tec version of I think "Anniesgrannies" idea of puting the plants in her pickup and then driving it in the garage, I am using my kid's toy ride on tractor and looking for second hand radioflyers, my garage is odd as it bites into the basement and is very cool in places, if that fails this year I wonder if I could put a door into the basement proper, which is bliss at the moment in the unseasonable warm weather we have had for the last 5 days! I love rhubarb it reminds me of childhood when my dad would sneek a bowl of sugar outside and me, him and my brother would hide and dip rhubarb into the sugar and eat it raw, Yum, yum! poor old dad, the sneeking sugar was not just out the house! it was buying it and keeping it hidden.... we where a strickly NO sugar household as far as mum was concerned, to the point it took several years for my dads diabetes to be diagnosed, as he would always be ill when away on business, so diagnosed as stress when he got home, truth was when the cats away or in this case the mouse he would eat every high sugar thing he could find when away from home! fall asleep at odd times lose weight, come home to mums cooking, tell her she would instruct he went to the Dr, typical man! took a few days, problem solved! until the next time, bit of a digression there but I enjoyed remembering that

Carol, I bet it did grow well there in spite of the short growing season. I'm assuming they started their transplants indoors to get them large enough to plant out once the temps were in the appropriate range. And it is the exposure to sunlight that made the celery so green. Most commercially-raised celery is that whitish-green because the celery is blanched. I think the blanching is intended to keep the stalks tender as too much sunlight/heat gives you tougher stalks. Seedmama, Here's how Jeff Cox grows celery: GROWING CELERY: Several years ago I purchased a book by Jeff Cox called "Jeff Cox's 100 Greatest Garden Ideas". It is a terific book and I love it. One of his ideas is a way to grow celery even if you can't give it the marshy conditions it prefers. If I ever tried to grow celery here, I'd try Jeff's method. To start his seeds, he sows them 10 weeks before his last frost. He soaks his seed overnight before sowing them in peat pots and setting them on top of the fridge so the heat can help them sprout, which can take 2 weeks or longer. He digs a below-grade trench about a foot wide and 14" deep although he says you can do the same process with a raised bed if you'd rather build up than dig down. If growing in a raised bed, he recommends a minimum height of 6" and cautions anything raised any higher may get too hot for the celery. You still need 14" of depth, but with the 6" tall raised bed, you only have to dig down 8" instead of the whole 14". You remove the soil to a depth of 14" for the trench or 8" beneath the eventual raised bed and remove all the soil. Add compost and other organic amendments to create an enriched growing mix that will hold lots of moisure and refill the trench or, for the raised bed, refill the dug-out area and build the 6" tall raised bed above it. By the way, he recommends six celery plants per person. If you want, you can add tin cans with the tops and bottoms both removed or pieces of PVC pipe inserted vertically into the ground about to the same depth that your celery is planted, or a couple of inches deeper than that. To water, fill each can or piece of pipe with water and let the pipe carry the water down to the root level of the celery plants. In the illustration in the book, he has one vertical can or PVC pipe in between two celery plants in a sort of checkerboard pattern. (Texas tomato plant growers use this method to water tomatoes, only they use large flower pots or huge, instituitional-sized cans, to water the tomato plants...it is called the Texas Pot method.) After you harden off your seedlings, transplant them into the enriched soil which you've pre-moistened so it it nice and damp. He waters his transplants with an organic fertilizer consisting of 1 T. fish emulsion and 2 T. seaweed extract per one gallon of water. Mulch the top of the bed with leaves. As the plans grow keep adding leaves so the stalks are blanched. Blanching celery stalks (but not their topgrowth leaves which need sunlight to grow) helps improve their flavor and keep them tender. This is especially important in a hotter climate where heat stress can cause the stalks to get woody and tough. He recommends feeding monthly and watering as often as needed to keep the bed moist and damp but not soaking wet. His recommendation is that you harvest the plants roots and all before frost arrives in the fall. Store them in a box in a cool basement or similar area. If the storage area stays cool enough, celery will store for months. You also could store them in an extra fridge in your garage or laundry room or whatever. If you ever run across Jeff's book, it is a wonderful book with projects grouped by the season. Dawn

Miraje, For green onions and scallions it depends on how early you want to harvest. I just plant my onions twice as thick as they should be when transplanting to the garden and then pull every other one for green onions. If planting for green onions you aren't worried about them forming large bulbs so you could always start and transplants some later. I don't as I like to get all my onions ect planted and out of the way so I don't have a lot to do when it is time to pot up tomato and pepper plants. If it was me I would try to get them started by the first of Feb. I have seen some say you can start them for green onions and scallions as late as 28 days before you average last frost. TO me that is a little late. But then like I say about planting garlic. Today is better than tomorrow and anytime is better than not planting at all. Jay