Wayne, The HH, cast-iron were "DISCONTINUED" from use in 1994. Ariens used an H60 with a cast-iron sleeve cylinder as a replacement for the HH70 until 1997 when ALL H series engines were "DISCONTINUED" due to EPA exhaust emissions regulations. In recent years, an HM80 replacement was substituted for the HH and H engine, part# 208120A. It will come with the 1" PTO and extended camshaft PTO as well for the reverse drive. If the extended camshaft is NOT IMPORTANT to you....you could use just about ANY brand of engine in an 8-10HP configuration with a 1" crankshaft. One thing to note, however.....The larger HP engine has a wider mounting stance than the HH70 and will require MOVING the engine forward approx 2" and drilling NEW MOUNT HOLES in order for the belts, idlers, and pulley to align properly. It's not a hard replacement. T-Man

"I have a Deere TRS24 with the Tecumseh engine. Good machine. But, snowblowers here run about 10 hours a year. The Tecumseh may be a good snowblower engine, as we have very few choices if we want a Deere, but in a lawn tractor, I wouldn't have one. I have the Kawasaki in my Deere mower. I would not own a mower with a Tecumseh engine. The old mechanics sayings were " A worn out Briggs is better than a new Tecumseh". Or " Tocomesee the hole in my engine block where the connecting rod went through". Don't know about that but I have a 14 year old 13 hp Tecumseh on my Ariens LT that has been 100% utterly and absolutely trouble free. I have changed the oil every season, changed the plug a few times and that is ALL that has ever been done. It has seen 14 years of hard use, was parked outside for several years and has never had any kind of adjustment or maintenance other than oil and plugs. It may blow tomorrow but I doubt it

Friend had a 7 horse kohler "K" I think it was. It was on a cub tractor with a 42 inch 3 blade cast deck. Delco starter/alternator and a button clutch. Must of been early 70's. Anyway I short blocked it and boy did that thing run. I'd look into rebuilding what you have. That is a great engine. Peace

I have always been a "walk behind" edger guy, and consider McLane one of the better Homeowner machines. Only the Power Trim and Little Wonder are better Professional machines in my opinion, and both can go north of $800 with Honda GX120. 1) I know you don't want to reconsider working on the existing engine. You're engine is from 1990 and has the advantage of a fully adjustable carburetor, and one that can be taken completely apart for cleaning. You may be able to make things right with relatively little out of pocket expense. BTW, you engine manuals and IPL can be found on Briggs website using 080202-1765-02 or 080202-1765-99. Tank probably needs to be cleaned and carb disassembled and cleaned. You should have an adjustable main jet, which needs to be removed and cleaned. Behind adjustable needle is a brass jet which is removed with a screw driver. This will expose two orifices which need to be cleaned (I use welding tip cleaners). Next clean both fuel pickup tubes by removing from carb body. If unable to clean, replace them. Be sure to replace the diaphragm. While you have things apart, I would also look at valve clearances. Should be .006 intake and .008 exhaust. Briggs aluminum engines have a habit of losing intake clearance, make engine much harder to start. Pull the valves out, clean valves and the seats in the block. Grind the ends of the stems to get the appropriate clearance. Recheck after you install the springs. You'll lose a couple thousands when under tension. I'd also check the starter clutch and replace if desired, or at least remove and brighten the stub shaft with emery cloth and add two or three drops of oil to the felt in the clutch (NO MORE THAN THAT). Lastly, since the front oil drain is a problem, you can replace the square head plug (1/4 NPT) with a recessed hex drive pipe plug. When tight, it will be flush and should not interfere. Should be $1 or $2. 2) Your original posting said you wanted to replace the engine. Current Briggs would be a 93302-0517. Web prices go $250 and up. You might be able to do better. Can't guarantee a fit, but should be OK. Don't worry about 5/8 shaft. Most replacement engines are 3/4, and if it saves money, a new 3/4 x 3 pulley should only be $8 or $10. Current engine is no longer rated by horsepower (Briggs now uses Gross Torque) but used to be a 3.5hp. Now uses a float feed Walbro carb, and I'd cut the fuel line and insert a shut off valve, for better long term storage. The GX120 is the "Cadillac" and should also bolt up without problem. Web pricing appears to be $350, although you can be a "pump" version with threaded shaft for about $30 less. You can still fit your pulley over the shaft and lock it down with set screws. 3) Since we are talking $200/$250 for a Briggs and $350 for a Honda, you might consider a new edger entirely. Although McLane's website prices are much higher, Amazon will sell a 101-4.75GT-7 for $299 and ship it free in the US. Even better value is the 801-4.75GTRP for $329. Rebuilt, new engine, or new edger, the key is reasonable maintenance. Because of you intermittent usage, you are a poster child for good gas (non-ethanol is possible) and religiously using a fuel stabilizer. Personally, I'd repair the existing engine, since it doesn't sounds like it has that many miles. My next suggestions would be the 801 edger, and start all over with brand new everything.