That is strange. I do have one suggestion, though. Consider putting the photos up on photobucket.com or some other site where people can view them without having to register. I registered because I am bored, but I have a feeling that most won't.

1) Spring isn't the best time to seed. You're almost assured of losing a portion of the new plants to summer heat. That's why it is suggested that the best time to seed is in the fall. That way the grass has longer to prepare a deep root system before hitting summer heat.

2) You have the one-inch of water per week right. But you shouldn't be watering every day. Long, deep infrequent waterings are preferred. Once a week if you have loam/clay soil. Maybe twice a week if you have sandy soil. Watering every day the way you have encourages the plant to develop short, shallow and weak root systems -- making it more prone to drought stress if you ever stop watering (say because of drought watering restrictions).

3) Yup. Forget about summer fertilization. It isn't what's best for your lawn -- but it is pretty good for Scott's bottom line. The summer fertilization makes your lawn more v ulnerable to diseases like brown patch and pythium blight.

I have one question about this though... are these brown spots recent? You say last application was eight weeks ago. If the lawn was burnt by fertilizer, it likely would have happened soon after you applied it.

I've got the same thing going on in parts of my new lawn I seeded last fall (see pics). Like you, I've been diligent with all the cultural practices (mowing, weeding, fertilizing, watering). My guess is that the brown, stemy plants are left over grasses that survived the round-up last year. In particular, I believe they are weak varieties of "contractor" Perennial Ryegrasses that produced an abundance of seed heads and are now drying, dying, or diseased with the onset of heat. I'm hoping my Bluegrass will get aggressive this fall and wipe-out the other stuff.

The moral of the story - when killing/re-seeding your lawn this year, MAKE SURE IT IS ACTIVELY GROWING BEFORE SPRAYING IT WITH ROUND-UP!

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For James, I would recommend a general insecticide, and the sooner you spray it, the better. Follow label directions as to strength. Spray an area outward about as wide as the area is: so you're spraying three times what you see is damaged. A light shot of fertilizer, a few days after insecticide is ok, but make it a light, quick application. Do the whole lawn, so that, as now, all of the lawn has had the 'same'. For summer heat, I only recommend Milorganite, which will NOT burn the lawn. I have no experience with the EB Stone stuff.

For Turf Junkie, Milorganite is exactly what your lawn needs. It's still new, not fully established, and if the other stuff is going to get weaker, you want the KBG to get stronger: give it a dose of Milorganite. That's what would happen to it out on the sod farm, isn't it? At present, your lawn looks "OK". It is suffering a lack of fertility, in the summer heat, which is natural. But a boost from Milorganite will really switch on the agression, and the dark green color. Give it a shot, let us know what changes.

Whoops... sorry rutgers1... thought I had shared that album without requiring sign-in/registration.

Okay turftoes, couple things: I shouldn't have said 'daily' watering; more like every other day. So noted re: Spring seedings vs. Fall ones. But wonder why two-thirds of the lawn remains so lush/nice whereas the one-third is afflicted?

Turfjunkie: How do you embed pics right into the message?

Philes21: Thanks... I'll look into applying a 'general insecticide'. Any recommendation/s for brand/s? Also, I just applied a very 'light' application of the EB Stone stuff (on the entire lawn) last night. Should I wait before applying said insecticide? Also, is the 'Miloganite' you suggested for TJ only applicable to a turf lawn?

Thanks all!

turf_junkie,

Lescos sells a product called Corsair that will kill the Rye (and any tall fescue) you have in your KBG lawn.

It's expensive. (About $120 for a couple of ounces -- enough to treat two acres, if I recall). But it may be the thing you need.

jamessr: To embed a picture, you have to first upload it to somewhere (I use Photobucket.com). Then copy the address (eg - http://mypictureonlinesomwhere.jpg). Then use an HTML image tag right in your message like this:

<img src="http://mypictureonlinesomwhere.jpg">;

turf_toes: I thought about using Corsair because I also have some coarse Tall Fescue clumps (in addition to the Ryegrass). Have you used it? Does it work well?

philes21: I had anticipated spreading some Milorganite at about this time (.75 lbs N/1000 ft2). As long as I can keep up with it (time-wise), I will be irrigating for the rest of the summer. My only hesitation is that the forecast is 90 degrees plus for the next 7 days.

Does anyone have any comments or suggestions before I go forward? Am I asking for trouble?

I'm going to follow philes21's advice and apply a bug killer. Will follow up in a couple/few weeks with pics (embedded; thanks turf junkie).

So far, so good... I've applied a general bug killer that I picked up from Home Depot, called Spectracide Triazicide (concentrate, applied to the entire lawn surface via sprayer).

All those little rice-sized fluttering bugs are toast! Will see if that infestation was indeed the root cause. Pun intended(?). Will check back in around 2 weeks from now; but I like to think the lawn is recovering already (and the bugs were 'evicted' only 2 days ago).