Glad to see this thread. My lawn looks the same way, though more tan than grey, but each day I see more and more green sprouts popping up. I was going to rake but I will wait based on the advice here. In a few weeks I'm going to drag around a tow behind dethatcher to do a quicker job of lifting the grass. No set low enough to hit the soil, just enough to skim the grass. It will make for an easier job than raking alone, though I was still going to try and get a head start with the rake. I have what I think is pink snow mold under a tree in the front yard. Some patches, and one large spot by a few feet. The grass seems to be pinkish brown and curled up, but damp. I'm hoping this recovers even if it takes a while. It was the first instance of any mold that I noticed.

I wouldn't think that sand would burn the grass. The grass is already hot as a firecracker. (I suppose if someone applied a huge pile of sand that was 140 degrees some burning could occur for sure but properly applied sand shouldn't hurt a thing.) It should be watered in. After water is applied in large quantities you can evaluate for yourself if there is still too much sand. I doubt that you will have too much. The opposite is generally the case after sand does it's self leveling trick in conjunction with heavy watering or rain.

1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet would be 0.5 kilos of nitrogen per 100 square meters. It is sometimes easier to figure how many kilos of N are in the original bag. If you have a 10 kilo bag of 5-4-3 fertilizer you multiply 10 kilos by 0.05 to get 0.5 kilos of actual N in the bag. If it was 19-5-8 you would multiple 10 kilos by 0.19 to get 1.9 kilos of N. Then if you want to apply 0.5 kilos per 100 square meters, you adjust the amount you apply to match up. Always water chemical fertilizer in right after you apply. If you do not, then tomorrow morning's dew will create a very strong fertilizer solution that kills the grass. I like organic fertilizer for many reasons but for this discussion it does not need to be so carefully calculated, nor does it need to be watered in. Modern organic fertilizers are primarily made up of food like wheat, corn, soy, alfalfa, and other ground up grains, nuts, beans, and seeds. Here is a picture of plain alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) used at a rate of 10 kilos per 100 square meters. It was applied in mid May and the picture was taken in mid June. Thanks to mrmumbles for posting the picture here back in 2011. That photo has cleared up the questions about whether organic fertilizer actually works. The best place to get these raw materials is a feed store. Here is a link to feed stores near you. Call first to get availability and prices. Moss killer? You should not need to routinely use weed or moss killer. What was your watering schedule again? I think we got the schedule but not the timing. Once the lawn is established you should never be watering more often than once every 3 weeks (note that his average summer temp is below 70 degrees F). ONCE! When you allow the ground to dry out completely before watering, weeds and moss are seldom an issue. Sometimes rain plays havoc with your best intentions, but it should not be a routine to apply weed and moss killer.

From the picture posted I think it is dog urine. Brown patch has a grey like outter ring and the inside of the disease does not look staw color as your picture shows. Brown patch isn't a concern in bermuda either. Spring dead spot is a major disease for bermuda but that's not it, nor dollar spot. As far as when to fertilize, well if it's not above 90 and you can provide good water then for bermuda the time is now. A good fertilizer for bermuda is one with a high first number with 50% slow release. As far as the rest of the information on taking care of your lawn, try searching online. Bermuda is pretty fool proof and is good for people who don't want to fuss over their yard.