How long does it take to "train" bermuda to grow horizontal
pbguy420
9 years ago
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lou_spicewood_tx
9 years agopbguy420
9 years agoRelated Discussions
How long does air layering take??
Comments (16)Describe the "small mound next to the girdled area, please. Are you describing callus tissue? Air layers don't get "irritated or distressed" when rubbed, but 'checking' them can result in unnecessary breakage of roots. If you use clear wrap to hold your rooting medium in place, then wrap that with aluminum foil to keep the sun from over-heating the medium or impacting root development, there should be no reason to peek. The roots will be conspicuous enough once they start growing. Also, some plants are genetically predisposed, even in the tropics, to stronger growth at certain times of the year - often it's in the rainy period. If the plant you're layering does exhibit cyclical growth patterns - try starting your layers about 1 month before you expect the strongest growth. It's difficult to suggest where you might be able to improve things if we don't know what you're doing. Watering an enclosed air layer daily sounds like a LOT of water, so you might be failing because you're asking the roots to transition back and forth between appropriate moisture levels to too wet; or, the medium might be consistently too wet. But that doesn't explain the dead branches. When you layer, you cut completely through the cambium down to the xylem. The plant can then still transport water and nutrients upward through the xylem to parts distal to the layer. Downward nutrient flow and polar flow of auxin terminates and collects in tissues immediately distal to the top ring of the layer, which is where roots should form. Tips: A) If you establish a layer on a branch or stem that isn't vertical, make your top and bottom cuts so they ARE horizontal. This means the cuts on a round branch that is say 10* to a vertical axis would be slightly elliptical, while a branch that's 60* to a vertical axis (30* to the horizon) would be would be much more elliptical. The reason for this is, the flow of auxin (stimulates rooting) is polar. Auxin will always find its way to the lowest part of a cut, which is where rooting will occur; and often, it might be the only root that grows from the layer site. You'd be better served if a multitude of roots emanated directly from the upper ring of your layer cut. B) You can help ensure success by applying a tourniquet immediately below wherever you want roots to grow on a branch. As soon as you see a bulge forming above the tourniquet, sprinkle an appropriate powdered rooting aid on the end of a piece of electrical tape. The rooting aid should cover enough tape to wrap one revolution around the layer site. The tape should be 2-3 times as long o/a as the part that's covered. Use a piece of string, a zip tie, or other method to secure the tape so it remains in place. Blanching (excluding light) the future layer site stimulates root initials to 'preform' and the rooting hormone and added moisture levels under the tape contribute significantly to the collective boost. You'll find a lot more info here. Al...See MoreFloratam bermuda in VA, when will it grow? How to transition
Comments (11)texas weed- It survived 1983 and 1989 super freeze with no problem as long as it was PROPERLY maintained. I have Floratam in my backyard and it was 90*F in December of 2005 and few days later, it was 14*F. It survived... Dr. Jerry Parsons from A&M extension in San Antonio. "It is the most drought tolerant of ALL the St. Augustines, it is chinch bug resistant and it is tolerant (does not show pronounced symptoms) of Brown Patch or Take-All Patch. With this said, those of you who have suffered the brown-spots-in-the-lawn phenomenon this summer should follow this advice. Rent a lawn de-thatching machine, cut and remove the dead grass areas, and re-sod with Floratam St. Augustinegrass. Problems solved. Then next summer when we get into a dry spell, watch for the rounding blades in the morning on the Floratam-then water thoroughly for at least an hour. This is a testimonial-I have had Floratam St. Augustinegrass in my front yard for over 25 years-through the 6 degree F. temperatures of 1983 and the 12 degree F. temperatures of 1989-and never lost the stand AND NEVER had a brown patch circle in the yard." I emailed Dr Jim McAfee from Dallas Extension about cold tolerance and he said that his plots of Floratam did fine most years. Here is a link that might be useful: Floratam...See MoreHow long does it take?
Comments (10)I'm no fish expert either, but this is what I did. I read about ways to get your fish to eat out of my hand. One thing is do not feed your fish for a few days. Don't worry, fish will find little things to chomp on, so they will not go hungry... much. Sit by the pond (quietly) and put your hand with a little food (3-4 pellets) in it, into the water. Release the food into water. The key is to move slowly and quietly (as they become used to you, they will tolerate faster movements and some noise). Also start out feeding in one select spot until they get use to you as their "food source". They will come to the food. Just stay there quietly. Stay there until all food is eaten. Add a little more. Soon they will SEE you as the source of food (right now they see it as falling out of the sky - lucky them). It takes patience; Presently I have one fish that comes right up to the side (I can rub it under/around the mouth). Anyone walks out to the pond, that fish moves, and the others follow. The others are just there, a foot away. I've gotten caught up in summer activities and haven't focus on the training of my fish much recently. My next step is to choose my next fish to selectively feed and focus on it to come to the side (there are a few candidates). LP Here is a link that might be useful: Handfeeding koi...See MoreHow to plant bulbs and how long to start growing?
Comments (3)Okay.... FYI they are tubers not bulbs, tulips, daffs ect are bulbs : ) If you want to try potting them up inside before you return them it is worth a try. Use moist soil and lay the tubers on top of it, and get it under some lights, or a bright window. The warmer temps inside, will help promt the eyes (growth spots) up near the stem (well stump of a stem) FYI for your 'new' batch of lowes tubers. They look like skinney potatoes hanging from a main 'stem'. Each skinney potatoe (tuber) needs a part of the stem (collar) and a growth eye (part where they start growing from) in order to flower for you. Roots will start to form BEFORE you see top growth. So if you are able to start them inside you should see roots in 2-10 days. Wait till your soil is 60* and plant them outside with the stem up and the potatoes dangling down. Or you can plant them on their side (horizontal) if it is easier, just try to keep the eye pointing up. I plant mine about 2-3 inches below the soil line. 2-3 inches from the tubers, not top of the stem. They are pretty hardy so they should be fine in less than ideal situations (too shallow, too deep, cock-eyed ect). Good luck! What kind did you pick up? Keriann~...See Moreiriasj2009
9 years agopbguy420
9 years agolou_spicewood_tx
9 years agoiriasj2009
9 years agoiriasj2009
9 years agolou_spicewood_tx
9 years agobama66
9 years agoiriasj2009
9 years agoiriasj2009
9 years agopbguy420
9 years agopbguy420
9 years agoiriasj2009
9 years ago
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