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gregnga

Older Lawn Boy, should I keep it

gregnga
16 years ago

I have a Lawn Boy Gold Series model 10515, made in 1994. It won't start, so I am deciding whether to spend the money on having it serviced or just buy a new mower. I am thinking of getting a Honda. Is this Lawn Boy worth fixing. Also, I would have to buy a new rear bagger assembly, so I may be better off with a new mower

Comments (11)

  • whizzer75
    16 years ago

    That's not old. I'm still using one I bought in 1980.
    Get a new plug. Check for spark. If you have spark, check for fuel. Once you know what's wrong you can decide.

  • 1saxman
    16 years ago

    Greg; you don't sound like a very mechanically-inclined guy. You may want to consider selling the 10515 which is a premium mower and probably just needs some TLC. This would go a long way toward the Honda. Look and see what they're selling for on ebay.

  • indy452
    16 years ago

    10515, In my eys one of the best lawnboy mowers made ever.
    I have three and would get rid of all others before the 10515's.
    I'll bet I've made a million dollars with one of the ones I have.

    In my area, running they go for $75-150 Non-running, $20-40.

    Do what wizzer suggest first.

    Neal

  • gregnga
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thanks for the replies

    I already tried a new spark plug several weeks ago and that didn't solve the problem. The only reason I am considering a new mower is because I don't have the rear bagger for the Lawn Boy any more, so after I pay to have it serviced,I still have to buy a rear bagger. I could almost get a new Honda for what I would pay for serviceing the LB and buying a rear bagger.

  • roydavid
    16 years ago

    Go to and online auction site and sell it or try selling it to a local mower repair shop.

  • 1saxman
    16 years ago

    Okay, if you keep it, it's worth spending some money on. After using your LB for a few years, you'll be shocked at how big, heavy and unwieldy a Honda HRX is compared to the LB. There may be several reasons why it won't run, assuming it's mechanically sound. The exhaust ports may be clogged; the ignition coil may be dead; the fuel and/or carburetor fuel bowl may be contaminated with moisture or the fuel could be stale; the kill switch may be inoperable. It's possible it could have any or all of these conditions, but the first thing is to check for a hot spark. Second, check exhaust ports/muffler for build-up, which it probably needs anyway. Third, drain/dispose of all old fuel in the mower and clean the carburetor. Make up a fresh batch of fuel. As for the bagging kit, they're on ebay all the time - make sure it's the rear bag kit with the long black chute.

  • jteekell
    16 years ago

    I spent my whole college years working at a mower repair shop that was a Lawnboy dealer. I worked on letterally hundreds on them. 99% of mowers that came in that did not start were due to one of three problems. 1:Fuel. The carburetor needed cleaning. Not just a spray job but take it down and put it in a carburetor cleaner soak. You can tell if this is the problem by squirting some WD40 into the carb and if it fires for a few seconds - there is your problem. 2:Fire. Just check the spark. If no spark get a new coil and mount it. Use a business card to set the gap between the coil and flywheel. 3:Compression. You need a compression guage for this. You need at least 90 psi to be good. If it is this one you have a big problem. You can get a short block and in effect have a new engine. Just keep your filter clean this time. Only two things kill compression - not enough oil in the gas and dirt. You would know the exhaust port is clogging if it has been running with seemingly no power for a while. This seems to be more of a problem on string trimmers, chainsaws and blowers in my experience.

  • farmerbill8_juno_com
    15 years ago

    I have no spark on my Lawn Boy 10323, and it's not a fuel or carburetor problem.

    Is it risky for a novice to remove the ignition coil and replace it? I get nervous when you say "use a business card to set the gap between the coil and flywheel." Is it just a matter of removing the recoil shroud, finding the ignition coil, and replacing it?

  • overkillphil
    15 years ago

    farmerbill8, yes it is that easy. Even my 10 year old could do it. And I don't mean that as an offense, but these mowers are really that simple and that is why they have the cult following.

  • bogman
    15 years ago

    Changing a module is quite easy on a 10323. The cowling comes off easily but you have to disconnect the fuel line.Unless you have installed a fuel valve, you will have to empty the tank.Two screws hold the module in place and I agree with you on the credit card use. The correct gap is .010 " and cards can have different thicknesses.The proper thing to use is a brass .010" shim. Install the module loosly and rotate the flywheel until the magnets pull the module and sandwich the shim between them.Tighten the bolts then pull the shim out, hook up the ground and spark plug wire and you sould be good to go.

  • turfdude
    15 years ago

    Guess I'm in the minority here, but I'd say replace it!

    I recently replaced a Lawn Boy 10525 that I've been using for about 10 years with a Toro 20068. I find the Toro superior in every respect.

    - The LB's small wheels (especially in the front) make it a rough go on my less-than-perfect lawn. The Toro is much smoother.

    - The LB's offset wheels make it a PITA to move across the driveway over the Belgian blocks. With the Toro, I just lift the front wheels and place them on the other side of the blocks, then lift the rear wheels and push the mower over the blocks. Not so easy with the LB.

    - Changing the LB from bagging to mulching to side-discharge is much more time-consuming

    - The LB is on its second set of rear wheels, I believe partly because the jerk of engaging the drive eventually loosens the tires from the wheels so they slip. The personal-pace system is much smoother. I was hesitant about PP but after using it a few times I think it's great.

    - The LB is on its third set of front wheels because they're so damn small! The last time, I replaced the 6" wheels with 7" wheels and set the front height adjustments 1/2" lower than the rear. That was somewhat of an improvement.

    - The LB resists being pulled backwards unless you move forward a foot or so after disengaging the drive. Not so with the Toro ... just pull it back, no problem.

    - The LB Duraforce engine surges from time to time. The Toro runs smooth all the time.

    - The Toro mulches better and doesn't clog as easily.

    - The Toro is smoother and quieter.

    The electric start and blade brake on the 20068 probably aren't necessary, but I'm glad I got them ... especially the blade brake. With the blade disengaged, the PP system can still be used to propel the mower back up the hill after I've finished mowing.

    The Lawn Boy engine has been reliable and still starts on the first pull. I was going to place it on the front lawn with a "Take It" sign but, now that I see there's a market for these old machines, maybe it's worth trying to sell.