There are mixes of fescue and KBG that go together. I don't know what they are off hand but the seed sellers know what they have. If you kill the weeds, chances are different weeds will move in for the summer. I would leave them be and just practice taking excellent care of what you have. You'll be surprised how nice a field of weeds can look under proper care. Also get ready to fertilize on Memorial Day. That is your last chance for the summer (unless you want to try organic). Synthetic fertilizer and summer heat don't mix. The next opportunity is Labor Day. Now is the time to ask, What do you want out of your lawn? Do you want a show place? Do you want it mostly green most of the year? Do you want to sponsor sports activities or run large, playful dogs over it? Your wishes at this point will really dictate which grass types to favor. KBG will not grow in shade. KBG will spread and fill in where there are bare spots. Some fescues tolerate some shade but they will not spread by themselves to fill in holes. The more uniform your mix of seeds the more uniform it will look. At the transition area from shady to sunny you will see a mix of KBG fading into fescue. You will likely need to overseed the fescue every year to keep it dense. Also the answer to the question above will dictate how much time you take preparing for seeding. You can seed into an existing lawn or you can kill everything and do a renovation. The full renovation takes more planning and longer execution so you really want to do that right. Seeding into existing grass is a matter of mowing short, power raking, blowing off all the chaff from the power rake, drop the seed, roll the seed down, and watering. You can do all that relatively quickly. Renovating takes at least another two weeks to kill the grass first. With seed you get what you pay for. The seed you find at the box stores always has a small percentage of Weed and Other Crop listed on the guaranteed analysis. The weeds and other crop seeds you want to beware of are bentgrass and common bermuda. They don't have to list the exact species of weeds and other crop. All they have to do is list the weight percent in the bag. The problem with bentgrass and bermuda is the seeds are the size and weight of dust. Even a few thousandths of a pound will give you a lawn full of weeds. The best seed will have 0.00% of weed and other crop. Those will cost more but you don't have to start right away with a mess of tenacious weeds. Those seeds are sold on the Internet and at some really good seed houses. Clover is only a weed if you don't like the look. When I was a kid you could not buy grass seed that did not have plenty of clover seed in it. When clover is evenly seeded across the yard, it looks very plush. It gets white flowers every week. Clover grows to 4-5 inches high and stops growing. It never needs fertilizer and can tolerate soil conditions that would set back normal grass. I think it has a lot going for it. When it looks bad is when it is just clumps of clover in the grass. So back to business: If you are new, the place to start is to get your watering under control. If you are watering more than once a week now, stop that. Watch the grass so it does not wilt. If it does, then water, but the idea is to water longer, not more frequently. Your mileage will be different from your neighbors because of differences in soil, grass type, grass height, wind, and shade. Your performance will be different from mine due to heat, humidity, sunlight, and clouds. Oh and your sprinkler will be different, so you can't just say to water for an hour but you can say an inch. My setup takes 8 hours to get an inch of water. Fortunately my soil and shade conditions don't require more than a half inch per week. Before you water each time, spray with baby shampoo at the rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. Use the Ortho hose end sprayer with the big dial on it. They are sold everywhere. Soap will allow the irrigation water to follow to seep deeper into the soil. This step will save you a lot of grief. Deeper water penetration will stay in the soil longer and prevent runoff. The soil also benefits from improved microbial populations. Spray each time before irrigating for the next two months and you'll be good to go. It will soften your soil without aerating. Anytime you feel a driving need to do something to the lawn, apply organic fertilizer. It will never hurt to apply even if you applied yesterday. Or you could spray it with molasses, milk, or even baby shampoo. These are helpful and can be done all at once or never, depending on your interest in this hobby. If you are interested in reading about the modern approach to organic lawn care, go to the GW Organic Gardening forum and find the FAQs. Scroll to the bottom of the list to find the Organic Lawn Care FAQ. It will point you to a low cost, low hassle approach to lawn care. I promise it will surprise you if you are unfamiliar with the topic. I stopped counting downloads on that FAQ years ago but since then it has spread all over the Internet forums. I'm guessing several hundred thousand downloads??? I know a lot of people who have gotten started with it and have spectacular lawns. I'll attach a motivational photo for you. I have had this photo around for years since it was posted here at GW by a member named William. I had forgotten what his circumstances were and have recently posted that this was a KBG lawn where he had recently raised his mower height. Last week I found a text file I had stored with my original copy of the photo. I had this all wrong. It is a fescue lawn that William had converted over to an organic program. He was sharing the results. Here it is. This is not unusually good for an organic program following the 1-2-3 plan I posted earlier. You should expect this. 1. Proper watering 2. Proper mowing height 3. Proper fertilizer Note that weeds are not a problem when you have this all under control. William has a weed in his yard. You can play Where's Waldo with it if you like. He was very happy, though.

Hi Everyone, Interesting debate of the line of demarcation for sabals along the east coast. I would love that line to continue moving north and here's a few thoughts. Years ago (1995) Virgina Beach barely had any palms, along the coast I visited the winter wind was too strong "some" years. I could have guessed a mile from the shore they would have done better and indeed Palms have caught on and are doing better. As street trees, by the Spring they appear to me to need help(colder years), but as yard trees they do well. The pindo palm is relatively new and catching on well also. One may measure a "natural" line of demarcation to see if the palm can successlly bloom and have seeds grow. TZ7 has a good point that they may be able to survive the delmarva penninsula, but that's within microclimates (against a house or building). For me its amazing more people have not tried it. Usually you see them planted on beaches in the north(maryland, del, Jesey, even Long Island) and they do not make it - 1, because cold wind, 2, temps temps too low too long. However, I theorize that we may be able to have cabbage (sabal) palms survive in our better sheletered microclimates (in those areas) with winter proetcion from wind. Against a tall house with a heated basement for example. During milder years it would not need protection. T7 I beleive correctly pionts out many of the cabbage palms north are not that large (except Laura in VB) with rare exceptions. She's an expert and knew where and how to cultivate best. With that know how it is very doable - but for regular folks planting along streets, I am not sure the natural line is that far north. I do not mind to be proved wrong about this.

There are several little beaks bobbing and weaving in the nest. Mother and Father Phoebe are feeding them together. One of the parents--looked like Father Phoebe--served up a bug with its wings still on. Father Phoebe was working with the bug for some time. When he delivered it, the bug's body was facing towards Baby Phoebe. Baby Phoebe gulped it down with no complaints. Both parents stand together on the stamped concrete under the deck. They constantly scour the walls of the house for bugs. Now and then, they go up to the nest for a look-see. I haven't figured that out. Maybe looking for fecal sacs? Anyway, I can gawk all I want at this little family and they cannot see me.

Monica, you have to better describe the conditions of sun, shade, topography, drainage and intended usage of these lawn areas. Also, where you live and what planting zone applies to your area. There is a forum devoted specifically to lawns here. Check there first and begin your query to that forum with your location, zone and details I mentioned above. I have good and bad experience with all the turf grasses you mention. I will say that I am finding the least maintainance award goes to mature centipede, especially if you are a gardener with many veg. or flower beds. Bermuda and zoysia are thugs. Tall fescues are water hogs (but lush and soft year round). My present lawn is a conglomeration of Bermuda, fescue and centipede and the ever present soft green weedy growth that flowers so pretty in Spring. I don't water it, feed it or lime it so I can get 14-16 days between mowing. It's green, doesn't need poisons, foods or more than rainwater and it's what came with this old house. You have dormant rootlets of Bermuda now and I'd say look into when is the best time of year in your zone for plugging with centipede grass. They mix well and look the same in the cold months (tan) and you won't need much more than that. Once you have Bermuda, you have it forever (and so do all the neighbors whether they wanted it or not) . Once you have zoysia, plan on deeeeep edging of the metal type. That stuff is like miniature running bamboo in its strength to invade through asphalt driveways. I've seen it run under concrete sections and come up in the seams. In winter, their stiff dead blades track everywhere. So , check with the turf grass, lawns forum here.