I think many (MANY) people would be thrilled beyond belief to have your problems. Your yard looks GREAT! That's kind of a cool effect with the weathered fence and stained posts.

Are you talking about the general yellowing in the immediate foreground or the occasional dead grass in the middle of everything?

You said, "Water Deeply and infrequently (twice a week for 20 minutes each time)" I would think in Seattle that deeply and infrequently would be twice a MONTH for an hour each time. But that's not what's causing your problem, whichever one it is.

The general yellowing in the foreground looks like uneven application of fertilizer. The little dead grass plants might be due to a leaf spot fungus.

While we're helping you figure this out, you could go sharpen your mower. You've got some raggidy grass tips.

I will take it in for sharpening tomorrow...Thanks.

BTW...We are on day 30 wihtout rain...And none in site.

I don't think it's water either...I took a couple of plug samples (PVC Pipe and a rubber mallet) wet all the way down (4 inches or so)

Also, I am a synthetic guy...Tried the organic way and just did not have the patience.

Also, I am a synthetic guy...Tried the organic way and just did not have the patience.
No problems.

If your soil surface never dries out, then you are watering too frequently.

So is it the yellowing in the front or the yellow plants in the middle?

Sorry...Top is dry...Below the surface is "wet"

What do you mean by yellowing in the front or the yellow plants int eh middle...Sorry I don't understand.

Day 30 with no rain in Seattle? We must be getting the rain you'd normally get. It's hard to believe it's desert here because we've been getting rain almost every day.

Do you know what kind of grass you have? I think perennial rye is most common in Seattle.

How much turf builder did you put down and how big is the lawn? I don't trust the spreader settings to spread the right amount, so I always calculate the amount I'll need to give my lawn 1 lb of N and buy that much. I then set the spreader lower than the recommended setting and make multiple passes in different directions to try to ensure an even spread (at least that's my approach when I use synthetics; when I use coffee grounds, I just fling them around the lawn).

When you say the top is dry, how deep do you let it dry out? Just the surface, or at least a couple of inches? If you're measuring, I'd let it dry to a depth of 4 inches before watering. Unless you have very sandy or rocky soil, I'd try to go at least a week between watering, except in the hottest and driest part of the summer.

Do you know your soil's pH? If it's way too high or way too low, you could have an iron deficiency, even if there's iron in the soil.

Speaking of iron, do you know if there's iron in the soil?

Do you know if any of your neighbors are having similar issues?

Is this your first year with this lawn? If not, how was it last year?

I'd forgo the Turf Builder and get some Ironite, instead. Another option would be to a chelated iron liquid spray or even some Milorganite w/ the 4% iron.

How much faith should I have in the PH kits that are sold at the nursery...For a soil test?

> "How much faith should I have in the PH kits that are sold at the nursery...For a soil test?"

Little to none.

Consider this - a soil test from a credited university or county/state extension costs about the same / a tad more as those kits.
I'm sure there is a difference in equipment and procedures used.

Click the link below for a list of soil testing links for many/every state.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cooperative Extension Service

BPgreen

Thanks for your questions.

With regard to neighbors...I am quite the loon here in Seattle...Most prefer a "natural" looking lawn and allow it look however Mother Nature intends it to look...So looking at neighbors lawns will not really give me a clue as to area level issues.

I think I am reading that the next step might be to get a soil test done to see what is going on...I intend to do that quickly and to get my blade sharpened as well.

Is there anything I should do between now and when I ge the test results or should I just sit tight...

Anyone have any reccomendations for soil testing labs in Seattle (or the greater NW)

If it's an iron deficiency, adding some iron could help. If it's cool enough, you can get a quick response using a water soluble source of iron and spraying it on the leaves. If it's too warm, that can cause burning. A granular source of iron will take effect more slowly, but also last longer. If your pH is way out of whack, the granular iron may not work. It doesn't really help where I am, because the pH is too high. There's already plenty of iron in the soil, but it's not available to the plants.

If you decide to add some iron, no matter what iron product you use, be very careful with it. It stains. Permanently.

If you get some granules on the sidewalk or driveway and don't clean them off before the next rain or sprinkler cycle, you'll always be able to identify where the granules were.

If you use a water soluble iron, any wind or drift can stain the house, sidewalk, driveway, etc unless you rinse immediately.

BPgreen

Thanks very much for the advice on the staining...That is very much appreciated.

No problem. The labels have the same warning, but I was reminded recently when I saw some spots on the back patio. I let a few ironite granules stay on the patio once. Probably more than 10 years ago.