Brian, I don't know where you got your lawn care information but just about all of it is back asswards. I don't think you have lurked here that much. You must be lurking somewhere else, because none of what you are suggesting is what we talk about here. In 10 years I can't remember that much incorrect information being talked about. The good news is it looks like your mowing height is fine (high). Always, always, always, always, ALWAYS, always, always do your seeding in the fall. Never, never, never seed in the spring (unless you are completely out of affordable options). Never water every day or every other day unless you are trying to germinate grass or weed seeds. The only way to germinate seeds is to apply continual moisture. That's what you are doing when you water every day. Weed seeds LOVE getting water every day or so. ALWAYS, mulch mow unless you are afraid of a rampant fungal disease or you let your weeds go to seed. I have not owned a bag since 1975. You really never need to aerate anymore. If you suspect your soil is too hard (test with a screwdriver), then you can spray it with shampoo at a rate of at least 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. Do that twice two weeks apart and you'll be fine. Waiting for the first frost is far too late in the season to do anything. As soon as your evening high temps cool off from the summer heat, then you can go into action. There are weed killers that target crabgrass. Find one and use it - or you can wait for the crabgrass to die naturally. The problem there is sometimes it takes until the first frost. The beauty of killing the crabgrass now is all the seed in the lawn will not germinate because it is fall. The watering schedule goes like this. For brand new seed, water 3x per day for about 10 minutes just to moisten the seed. Do that for 2 weeks or at least until you have about 80% germination on your seed. Then start to back off. In the winter you should water once a month for about an hour unless you have rain or snow. In the summer you should water once a week for about an hour unless you have rain. When it rains, all you need to do is supplement whatever is needed to get up to an inch per week. This approach allows the soil to completely dry out at the surface. That will also stop thatch growth. Use tuna or cat food cans to time how long it takes YOUR sprinklers to fill the cans. That is 1 inch of water. That's your target time. Mine takes 8 hours. My neighbor's takes 20 minutes. Fertilize when the summer heat breaks unless you are seeding. Then you can use starter fertilizer or organic. Fertilize again around Thanksgiving with a high N winterizer. Don't fertilize in the spring until after the spring flush of fast growth has stopped. An easy day to remember is Memorial Day. If you want to use a preemergent weed control, wait until the soil temps are into the 50s, and apply that the day after you get a soaking spring rain. If you hire a lawn service they will mow much too short. The height you have it now is good. I'd just take the next few weeks to practice proper watering, mowing, and fertilizing. In the spring start with monthly watering and transition as you need to to weekly watering. Mulch mow tall every week and fertilize in the late spring. That's easy.

Next time you redo your lawn, (1) please do not till, (2) roll the seed instead of raking it, and (3) please consider mixing Kentucky bluegrass in with the fescue. Because you tilled, you will have to relevel the yard after the fluffy tilled soil settles. The settling process can take 3 years, so don't get excited and try to fix that now. Just remember to do it then. Because you raked the seed, anything could have happened. I understand your motivation, but rolling works to do the same thing without moving seed around. Because you seeded with fescue and raked, you will have bare spots. Fescue grows one plant from one seed. Each fescue plant grows outward at a glacially slow pace. If you had planted a mix of fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, the bluegrass would spread like a carpet in and around the individual fescue plants to fill in all the bare areas. Because of these different characteristics, fescue is called a bunch grass and Kentucky bluegrass is called a sod-forming grass. If you want dense fescue you have to plant a lot of individual seeds. If you want dense Kentucky bluegrass, you need plant only one seed and wait. Of course it is customary to get better coverage of KBG by planting it like any other seed (lots of it). So, getting back to your question, YES, reseed as soon as you realize you are going to have bare spots. Assuming the bare spots are relatively small, you can achieve the same effect as rolling by simply walking on your seed as you seed it. Your full weight on flat soled shoes is perfect to compress (not compact) the soil with seed on it. Mother Nature seeds and "rolls" by running livestock over it, so your feet aren't going to hurt anything.

from what ive understood, corn meal has the same pre emergent properties that gluten meal does. Is there any reason for wanting specifically to put down corn meal or corn gluten. This time of year, most of your weed seeds have sprouted so the pre emergent attack isn't going to be that effective. If you feel that your lawn is deficient in nutrients, you could try any organic lawn fertilizer or livestock meal (corn gluten, soybean meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, etc.) soybean meal has one of the highest Nitrogen contents. ALSO, topdress with compost as it has a wide array of nutrients. Just remember.....it's going to take a couple weeks before you start seeing any proof positive results of your organic fertilizers. It also helps to remember that you're goal is to feed the soil and it's inhabitants, let them take care of your grass. you are on the right track keep it up! :)

Looks like a northern mix of grass? typically just consistent supply of fertilizer each month.... or milorganite bi-weekly.... with a good soaking each week (1" of water as measured by a can/tuperware).... it should slowly creep/spread into those spots via Rhizomes/rooting. Just like it will creep into landscaping etc :-/ If it is warmer than 80... you are going to want to keep grass a bit higher to prevent that bare soil from getting cooked/dried out. Extra hand watering to dry spots will also help encourage rooting into that area. If it is primarily tall fescue (do see some clumps...) ... some filling in via thicking of clumps will happen...but overseeding in the fall will also help. i'm not great at spotting grass types... sorry.