part number 93-1211 is the tank version used on m series without oil injection. I know is tank is very simular to the 93-1208 and even still has the oil tank on the right half of the assembly however both ends are closed off in the molding. Im sure you could drill out the opening in the bottom for oil line and figure out the other hook ups too. Im not sure as far as what electrical hook ups are needed though. the 93-1211 is still in production or at least in inventory accoding to recent price lists for under $60. I got the basic m series push model and feel its a great machine other then being very heavy. I know m series had alot of flaws but overall is a nice machine

Well, I shortened the fuel line just slightly so it's running entirely downhill. Recleaned carburetor, this time with a WaterPick (the kind you use to clean your teeth that shoots little jets of water -- my new favorite carb cleaning method, because you don't have to fear spraying carb cleaner in your eye and can watch whether the water's come out well or not). Unbent a staple and recleaned the holes in the carb bolt. In the process of disassembling and reassembling, I discovered that one of the screws holding the air filter housing had a flat tip, while the other had a cone-shaped tip. It struck me as odd that the flat-ended one was in the hole that had gas and air passing through it, so I reversed them and put the cone-shaped one in the hole that had gas and air going through it. Somewhere along the line, I seem to have solved the problem, because I cut grass with the mower for about 20 minutes and it ran fine. So thanks for all the tips. Now my only concerns are: 1) my ear senses that the mower seems to be running a bit fast, and 2) the mower is definitely very loud compared to other mowers (muffler dosen't have any obvious external defects or holes). For what it's worth, the exhaust air seems to be blowing out of the muffler with tremendous force -- none of my other mowers make flowers, etc. flap in the breeze like this one does. Thoughts?

I have an old Lawn Boy 6211 that's been hanging in my barn for 15 years. I bought it used back then, used it for about 6 months, then moved to a bigger yard. In has been on my barn wall since then. I didn't know anything about it, still really don't. I bought it at an auction, got it running, used it for 6 months and that was it. Anyway, today I got it down, mixed up some gas and fired it up. On the second pull it was running. I couldn't believe it. It has great power, seems to work well. Now I am fascinated with maybe restoring it, fixing it and making it look decent. NOW MY QUESTION. Where is a legitimate place to get parts for an old Lawn Boy? A google search gives me many sites, but where do you guys go.

How do you remove the seal without spliting or damaging the aluminum case? If possible it might be a good idea to put new ones on as I undestand that they a relativelly cheap. The lower seal in particular operates in a horrible environment: sand, stones, sticksÂ. The piece that does not seem to fit the puzzle is that it was running before the CDI died (BO = Before Overhaul) Yes BO it started hard but it ran and ran fast once the initial couple minute warmup period. So something must be different AO (After Overhaul) as a result of my rebuild that makes it not run without choke. This does not nessecarily point to the seals even though they may not be in the gratest shape. Just maybe. Could be carb or governor related. Or missassembly due to lack of clear pictures, experience or working with the machine on the ground and me in my wheelchair. No longer with 20/20 vision! So what is the killer culprit? Being a novice on LBs, I looked at the 4 crancase half bolts and immediatelly thought of evenly torquing them tight. I contemplated it and evetually could no longer resist. I first checked to verify they where tight. Nothing turned, no damage done. No here is where I may have screwed up. The serated lock washers make the bolt hard to turn so just seeming tight does not necessarilly mean they are. Locktite may have resulted in more evenly torqued bolts had LB spent the extra nickel per block. On a head gasket practice used to be that you back off one headbolt at a time and evenly retorque. Way back when it was recommended. So that is what I did to just a fraction of a turn tighter than where I started. Evenly of course. I thus cannot rule out the crankcase seal even though the halves probably never separated. If a gasket is used in particular it might. Now if they are bonded at the factory with a semi pliable adhesive such a Yamabond, no way. Great stuff if you never tried it. Holds up to vibrations on Yamaha bikes and Outboards where two highly machined aluminum surfaces must be mated leakproof such as on gearboxes and crankcases. Great Stuff! In a pinch has many other uses. Just bring lots of greenbacks when you go to the Yamaha dealer for the 6-8 Oz tube. Properlly closed lasted me ten years. Online...? What you going to do, Novice