Head on over to your local Clemson Extension office and have a talk with your agent. Don't worry about your analysis being old -- especially if you haven't done anything to your soil. Other Key questions: What type of grasses are you trying to grow -- Centipede takes a totally different care regime than Fescue or Bahia... What is your soil PH What soil type do you have? Now.... Looking at my recent analysis -- those are all Lbs/Acre -- not PPM measurements... P looks really low K looks medium low Ca should be plenty Mg is probably OK My guess is that you are going to be using some sort of balanced "premium" slow release fertilizer with minor elements -- like a 10-10-10 slow release or a 17-17-17 slow release... But It is going to be totally dependent on the type of grass and your soil type. Thanks

aipa, I'm sorry - I made an error in wording my post, as evidenced by your reply. To (some) lasagna "purists", it would not be a 'true' bed without paper (in some form) - even though layer-type of bed-making has been done for thousands of years (terra preta is a very old example) without paper per se. But to purists, I also apologize in advance, for any misunderstanding. I did not mean to imply that paper was not recommended at all - just don't completely block essential under-plant drainage, and blueberry roots from easily penetrating the paper. Remember that your clay soil does not drain well to begin with. These are common 'issues' with lasagna beds made by folks who do not research the technique adequately for the plants they intend to grow in such bed. Although blueberry roots are fairly shallow (in relation to the mature height of the plant), they still need VERY good drainage, and the roots will need to anchor into the soil below the lasagna bed for stability on windy days. Your light-weight bed mix is not going to offer a lot of support - and should ask about staking the plants initially? Paper is good. BUT in this case... In the 'style' of lasagna bed I'm referring to, the paper is not laid in traditional thick layers (to block growth penetration from under the paper Long-Term), but rather it should be finely-shredded first, to deter growth from underneath while allowing plant roots above to more easily work their way down through the matted paper layer(s). (yeah, I know - but I'm just an 'unconventional' kind of guy...I actually check stuff like that). The paper layers kill grass by suffocation and lack of photosynthesis, and IMO the paper layers have served their purpose when the grass is dead, which does not usually take all that long. Not much nutrition in paper for plants, but microbes love it. Blueberry roots are probably stronger than your grass - unless you have bermudagrass (or the like). I have bermudagrass that can penetrate 1" cinderblock or a full Sunday paper in a few weeks). If you have 'strong' grass - solarize (black plastic) first - or consider the use of a carefully-applied (paint brush) herbicide. If you don't do chemical herbicides, organic ones are available too (more research).' I recommend application of elemental sulfur before you begin building the bed with paper. Sulfur does take time...And the more you 'work it down' into your clay soil, the better. If you don't herbicide or solarize the grass - for just the size bed you're considering - I'd take a hoe to the grass first. Take out all you can (you can't get it all). Either way, then apply sulfur, OM and very coarse (river) sand, then till it all under. Since this is for shallow-rooted blueberries, not worth the effort to double-dig, but just make sure that the entire raised bed has sloped drainage. Trench rainwater water away from the bed if needed. Then - paper away, but shred the paper as best you can first. If finely shredded, standard thicker layering. If coarsly shredded, make more, and thinner layers, with OM between the layers. Plant after last frost in spring. After your lasagna bed is completed of course - and let it 'settle' for at least two weeks before you place a containerized plant - and watch soil height - don't allow roots to become exposed. And if it were me, I'd mulch the plants with 2"-3" of well-dried lawn grass clippings. Your clay pH is 'OK' down deep. Not as low-pH as it "should" be for "optimum" growth - but not that far off, either. With only a few plants, you will be able to give them special care (foliar sprays - more research). But whether your peat/sand-based lasagna bed material is going to be purchased as a mix, or 'made from scratch', you should test (litmus strip; or pool test kit; etc.) the 'soil' pH as you build the bed to ensure 5.0 pH or lower if you want a good first crop after the 2nd year. If you buy bagged mix that states a low pH - don't trust it. Takes only a few minutes to test it. Find out. Add more elemental sulfur if needed (wheelbarrow/hoe). If you make you own mix - test every wheelbarrow batch. Remember to water the ground, and layers of shredded paper before putting anything on top of each paper layer. If possible, use a pump-up sprayer (coarse spray) with a filtered (paper coffee filter is OK), well-mixed (paint sprayer & electric drill) solution of sulfur with water (that was previously pH-adjusted (pH Down) to 4.0 BEFORE sulfur was mixed-in. Then you will have given your blueberry plants the 'best shot' for their future in underlying clay soil. Robert

What are you planning on growing there? I am not sure why that lab would think a soil pH of 6.58 would be high since that is in the optimal range for most plants, except those that like an acidic soil. Then sample 2 has a soil pH of 5.66 and is listed as optimum and I have not seen anything, anywhere that lists that, for a lawn, as desireable. Everything I have seen on lawns and soil pH would be in the range of 6.2 to 6.8. I would dig in and look at what the level of organic matter was in those soils as well as how those soils drain, hold together (tilth), smell, and what kind of life is in them and these simple soil tests can help you determine that, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Well, since you're talking turfgrass, your options are somewhat limited. There's really no practical way to increase the OM in the soil in the near term. Keep mulch mowing. According to the folks at OSU's REAL, you're in the right range except for high pH, very low P and somewhat low K (link below to their Acceptable levels for lawns). Your dilemma is lowering pH while increasing P. First, before you take anyone's advice I would encourage you to discuss the results with your local county Ag extension agent. He/she will have local knowledge and can better steer you than about anyone else. With that as a caveat, I believe what you want is an ammonium phosphate fertilizer (e.g. MAP @ 11-52-0 or DAP @ 18-46-0 ), and then separately potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) to bring the K in line. All should be available from local ag/farm supply or feed stores. But, don't take my word for it - talk with your county agent first. Here is a link that might be useful: Interpreting a Soil Test for Lawns