One of the frustrating things about lawns and water is that sometimes a lawn that looks like it is dying because it doesn't have enough water may be dying because it is drowning. I think there's a good chance that your problem is due to too much water. I live in the desert and I watered for the first time yesterday. We did have almost three inches of rain in June this year, but it sounds like you've had lots of rain, also. The areas that are affected may have poorer drainage or may be a little lower so that water sits there longer or they may just have some grass that is more susceptible to fungus. Don't water until the grass starts to get stressed, then water deeply. You need to let the soil dry out down to about 4 inches or so. If you can't tell by the grass, use a screwdriver and poke it into the ground to see how deep it's moist. I'm pretty sure at least one of those pictures shows some KBG, so if those areas have died, there's enough grass around them that is still green to fill in. I would not fertilize now, except maybe with a slow release fertilizer. Most organic fertilizers are slow release and there are some synthetic products that are also slow release. I don't have a lot of direct experience with fungus (it's just not a problem when the relative humidity usually hovers around 5%). I've read posts from others who have used cornmeal at 10-20 lbs per 1000 sq ft and had good results from it. That would also qualify as a slow release mild fertilizer. There are also synthetic anti fungal products available. I think the synthetic products are faster working. One important point is that you should not mix the two approaches. The cornmeal works by encouraging the growth of beneficial fungi, so if you use an anti-fungal application of some sort, the cornmeal won't work.

20lbs per 1,000 sq ft is a *lot* of nitrogen for the lawn. Prepare to be mowing often :) I use soybean meal at the rate of 10-20lb per 1,000 sq ft and it converts to around 6.5-7% nitrogen, I believe corn gluten is ~10%? Anyway, the only way I know to calibrate the spreader for this is to mark out a 10x10' area and make your best guess on the setting and then add 2lbs of meal. It should be empty after going over the 10x10 area. Another way is to figure the amount of area you will treat in total and then load up the spreader and just keep going over the area until it is all applied. Using this approach you will be able to make adjustments over time and get it dialed in right. If it is any help at all (may not be), to apply 20lbs per 1000 of soybean meal I have the Scott's Speedy Green almost wide open.

According to those that espouse using corn meal, or grits, to help control ants the ants eat the meal and then drink something which causes the meal inside them to swell up and the ants then explode. For those that do not grasp the role ants play in our world that may sound pretty good but it simply does not happen. This is one of the many myths about ant control out there. Texas A & M has done much research on fire ants and about every web site out there about fire ants uses the information they have developed. Here is a link that might be useful: About Fire Ants

For me, I like Jalapeno peppers, no onions and maybe using half whole wheat flour and half white would make the rise more.