I would suggest you not use any broadly applied herbicides or pesticides this year. No sense chancing stressing the turf. and at the very least check the label for advisories regarding applying. A half pound/k of NPK every two weeks applied to dry blades and then watered in until mid June will be beneficial for the sod. As far as fertilizing new sod or grass, what follows is the best advice I've ever found: "The Philes Phertilizer Lecture follows: These new KBG lawns are hungry for fertilizer. Very much like, (and if you renovated, exactly like) a sod farm, those guys that start with bare ground, throw some seed around, and by late July of every year, they are selling product: a deeply rooted, dense intertwined dark green carpet of lush (no bare spots) Kentucky Bluegrass. Now how do they do that every year? (And, of course, the implied question "How come you and I can't do it also?") They do it with frequent, rather than heavy, applications of fertilizer. Literally, every two weeks, a light application of fertilizer. At seeding time, they start with an 8-8-8 or a 10-10-10. Upon the grass reaching the 'first mow' stage, they add Milorganite, and then it's Milorganite every two weeks, as the weather gets warmer. Every two weeks would seem to you (and in the old days, to me) as 'excessive'. It's not. Not only is it not excessive, it may well be Required. There's only one difference between the sod farm, with that lush green grass for sale every year, and the typical homeowner here (I'm leaving out the general public: the public is a 2 or a 3, as you know, and you guys and gals are a 6 or a 7. Twice as good. But I'm trying to get y'alls up to a 9, which is where the sod farm is), and that difference is Frequent Applications of Fertilizer. Especially with KBG, more fertilizer than you are used to putting down is good. A typical homeowner would fertilize once in the fall. Not the first year, but every following year, on these newly renovated (or overseeded) KBG lawns, two full applications are required in the fall. Spring? A lot of people don't like to fertilize in the spring. A KBG lawn requires an application of big-first-number fertilizer, in May. A newly renovated KBG lawn requires yet another application in mid June. That lawn needs the nitrogen, for all the growing, both above, below, and across the ground, that it's wanting to do, and will do, if you feed it. Density? It requires nitrogen. Color? Requires more nitrogen. Aggressiveness? You already know what it requires. Even an old KBG lawn, the Merion sods of this world, needed more nitrogen than they received. As proof, drive through the subdivisions of ten or twenty years ago, and look at the lawns: those lawns were not exactly treated like a sod farm, were they? If you want your new lawn to turn out just like that, here's all you have to do: fertilize once in the fall, and once in the spring. That's it. The results are guaranteed. By now, somebody is saying (and should be), "Is it possible to OVER fertilize a lawn?" Yes, it's possible. But not what you'd think. The 'typical' overfertilize stripes that we all seem to fear came from the old drop spreaders, when the rows were overlapped. That overlap caused a doubling of the fertilizer along that narrow, overlapped row, and it was all delivered in one day. What most people forget, while imagining the scorn of neighbors and children, is that those bands of over fertilization did not last until fall, they went away in less than a month. Repeat: the so called over fertilization went away, in less than a month. The homeowner had not created another Love Canal toxic zone, the homeowner had instead managed to put down more than the grass could handle all at once, but in fact the lawn handled it, and probably even needed it. The lawn just didn't need it all at once. Nor in summer's heat. Disaster? No. Bad delivery technique? Yes. It wasn't too much fertilizer, it was too much fertilizer all at once, and there's a difference, isn't there? These days, with the rotary far-flinging spreaders, a more evenly spread application of fertilizer is the norm. Now that we want to emulate the sod farms (and their turf success), we know that there's no sin in putting down a half application, in one direction, and putting down the other half application, in the other direction a week later. Now that we want to emulate the sod farms, we will want to feed the lawn during summer, rather than letting it starve while it battles the hot summer sun. So Milorganite, or other organic fertilizer is required, rather than a big-first number fertilizer. At least once in summer, but if you've renovated, or over seeded, that new KBG needs two applications. It needs the food. So there's my recommendation for the renovators and overseeders: two applications in the fall (not the first year, on the seedlings, they can't use the food yet, as they haven't grown enough yet) at least one application in the spring (two if you renovated or overseeded. That application we skipped last fall goes down the following spring), and you must feed the lawn in the summer: that new KBG needs the food. So here we are, end of August. You know you are going to fertilize in the fall, probably twice, and perhaps didn't do enough during spring or summer. You can do a half application right now, of big first number fertilizer, or a full application of Milorganite. And still do the regular fertilizing when fall gets here. But your lawn likely needs the meal, and if you provide that light meal right now, before fall gets here, I think you'll love the visible results. Good luck with it."

I use a pre-emergent without nitrogen and look for what's available at my local stores. Southern States had a granular product with Dimension (0-0-7) and I got that. I used something similar last year, but I may have gotten it from Home Depot then. If you plan to overseed in the fall, be sure to read instructions on how soon after using the pre-emergent you can reseed. That may affect which one you choose.

Yes, I've ran out of time. I'm currently killing crab grass and yellow nutsedge. I plan to finish spraying those by the end of this week, the middle of next at the latest. Then I'm going to rent a dethatcher and run over the lawn to loosen up the dead clumps of of crab grass on September 18. I'll rake and clean everything up as well as I can. Then I plan to aerate on September 25 and over seed on the 26th or 27th. It's pushing me tight, but unless we have an unseasonably early winter, that should give my new grass plenty of time to take root and get started before going dormant. Next year I'll be using a Dimension based pre-emergent in about mid-April and again in mid- to late-July, so I shouldn't have near the problems with crab grass next year that I had this year. I'll spot treat the nutsedge with Tenacity as needed. I'm still bordered on two sides with crab grass filled empty lots, so I know that's going to be a struggle, but I have some ideas about that too. As long as I can get through this season, and get my seed in the ground before the end of the month, I feel pretty good. I'm going to take some pictures as I go along and will post them to show the different stages later. Thanks for the advice. - Byron

Northern Indiana, new lawn planted end of August. Watered a few times a day according to lawn planter except when we had crazy rain. Grass came up quick but many bare spots where seed thin or erosion. Put down mesh / straw areas and re-seeded many areas up till about 3 weeks ago. Front has few weeds, back is thin and looks around 33%+ weeds. Growth was slow so I added starter fertilizer which greened it up and has helped some. I haven't cut the whole yard yet once, just areas in the front and back. My question is, should I put down Fall Fertilizer? Is it too soon after starter fertilizer or will Fall Fertilizer kill my new grass? The only other factor is I am trying to delay the sprinkler company from coming to blow out the system so I can keep watering the newest seed. Thanks.