I looked at your pix and the installer did a horrible job and the landscaper should repair the sod on his dime. I could have gotten better results than this professional landscape got and I've never laid one square of sod in my life. And a lot of that sod looks like it should have been rejected by the landscaper at the sod supplier. I mean what is the landscaper being paid for here? To create an expensive repair job in your yard? Then the landscaper should be fired.

Last post by me on this. Except for R.E., a valid contract can be oral, the usual problem that occurs with an oral contract is "hesaid/she said. That is why it is useful to have some supporting evidence of what was agreed to. I missunderstood what you where asking in your original post. After re-reading: If you can't tell the difference between the cultivars, you should get the grass identified. You may have gotten what you wanted and the invoice may just be an inccocent error.

You got what I had before I discovered corn meal. Corn meal finally got me over the hump and the grass is absolutely normal in that spot now. You can put down new sod every week, but it's going to die. You have to get rid of the disease. Once that happens, you will not need to redo it with new sod. The sod that's there will come in fine. Your soil pH is perfect for St Augustine. Don't waste your money trying to fix it. What that indicates is your soil is made of calcium sand instead of silica sand. You can pour straight sulfuric acid on it from now on and all you'll get is a deeper hole where the sand dissolves. Much of Texas soil is 8+ and St Aug absolutely thrives. Your problem is water retention...if you call that a problem. Actually your problem is you continue to water despite your water retentive soil. Clearly your initial watering routine is going to have to be different from the "normal" 3x per day routine. If your roots are knit into the underlying soil, back off on watering. Watch the grass for signs of wilting. When it wilts, then water and start watching it again. This time of year I would be looking at watering once every 3-4 WEEKS. If it has been at least 3 weeks since you used a fungicide, then you might want to try corn meal along with a light dusting of finished compost. A light dusting of compost means 1/2 to 1 cubic yard per 1,000 square feet - or even less. The reason corn meal works against disease is that as the corn decomposes on the soil, a beneficial (predatory) fungus appears on the corn. That predatory fungus will destroy the disease fungus. The trick is that you have to have at least some of the predatory fungus in your soil to begin with. By applying a chemical fungicide, you usually kill off the beneficial fungi leaving none behind to keep the disease out. Compost will reintroduce the beneficial fungi to the soil which will then populate on the decomposing corn. Corn takes 3 full weeks to show any improvement. The improvement will be that the new grass will grow to full height without getting any spots or lesions on the blades. You can see the spots in your second picture of the second post near the top of the image. St Aug should have no spots whatsoever. Here are some pictures. The first is normal and the second shows the fungal disease spots. As I recall these two pictures were of the same area taken about 6 weeks apart before and after (or after and before) corn meal treatment. Okay so generally here's how you care for St Augustine. Water. Deeply and infrequently. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Infrequently means once per week with temps above 90, once every 2 weeks with temps in the 80s, once every 3 weeks with temps in the 70s, and once every month the rest of the year. In your case you might be able to stretch these frequencies out some. Mowing. Mulch mow at your mower's highest setting every week or two. In the spring when it's growing very fast, you might need to mow 2x per week. Tall St Aug is much healthier and needs less water and fertilizer than short mowed grass. St Aug can be extremely healthy at 32 inches tall (I have pictures), so letting it get up to 5 or 6 inches is not a problem. Fertilizer. Once on Memorial day, once on Labor Day, and once around Thanksgiving. Seeing as how you're so far south you might move these to once in early May, once in late Sept, and once around Christmas.

Bermuda does not turn brown due to shade. It thins out and the soil looks brown, but the grass itself still struggles. Besides that, Celebration is supposed to be more shade tolerant than the other varieties. I'm going with overwatering. I assume the sod is knit down to the underlying sand. Try to lift a corner of the sod. With sand you can always lift some but you're looking for a firm tug to get it up. If it peels up like a carpet, like no roots have formed into the underlying sand, then you have a problem there. The sod never rooted. With the water you gave it there should be full, rooted, connection to the soil/sand. Once the sod is connected you can back off on watering exactly like you already have. But you did not go far enough in backing off. Do you know how much water your sprinklers put out? At this point you should be putting out no more than 1 inch per week. I would back it off to 1 inch every 3 weeks applied all at one time. Measure 1 inch by setting out several cat food or tuna cans and turning on the sprinklers. Time how long it takes to fill all the cans. Mine takes 8 hours but I had a neighbor whose high flow system filled them in 20 minutes. Every sprinkler system will be different. Once you have the time to fill, use that time every time you water. Here's more on watering. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.