Looking at your O.M., potassium, phosphorus and boron numbers I'm gonna guess that you use a lot of manure. I'm personally not a big fan of manure because of the salts and boron. You might have naturally high boron and/or P/K where you are but I'm gonna stick with my hunch unless informed otherwise. A boron value greater than 1.0 ppm is high enough to cause a broad range of plants to show symptoms of boron toxicity. Your are at more than 5 times that level. (I'm gonna take another wild guess and say that their 'E' stands for 'excessive') The symptoms vary from plant to plant because it's mobile in some plants and not in others but one common thread in vegetables is reduced yield. The higher the number, the more severe the effect on yield. Unfortunately boron is very difficult to leach and you'll probably always have a problem with it. Here's another fun fact. You're pH is higher than preferred but if you do anything to decrease it, like incorporating soil sulfur, you'll put more boron into solution, making it more available to plants. That would increase boron toxicity problems. Ta da! Welcome to the wonderful word of boron! Did your soil test say anything about salinity? I bet that's a fun number too. For now don't add anything (K:Mg ratio is the least of your worries at this point), pick crops with tolerance to boron in the soil and cross your fingers. You might want to try running a few very thorough leaching irrigations to at least try to flush some of that boron out of the root zone. (But don't get your hopes up too high). If you decide to do that, the O.M. will keep the soil wet for a long time so make sure to give it plenty of time to dry out a little bit between irrigations to avoid creating anaerobic soil conditions. Also, leaching irrigations will just run off of a saturated soil, which won't do you any good. Surface and subsoil drainage have to be sufficient to allow water to move through the soil profile for leaching to be effective. If drainage is impeded, well, we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. Also, are you sure you copied down your base saturation percentages correctly? I don't see sodium but you can usually calculate the percentage of one of the base forming cations by subtracting the known values from 100 but even without sodium, yours add up to over 117%. You'll sometimes see 99% or 101% including all base forming cations plus hydrogen due to rounding errors but greater than 117 means something is wonky there. Here's another thing to consider. Are you sure it was a good representative sample? Lets say you added something like, oh....I don't know...manure? And then you grabbed your sample from one spot in the garden. If you picked up a big slug of manure in the sample, you could get falsely high values. Then everything we've been talking about wouldn't count for bupkis. When collecting a soil sample, it should be a composite of soil collected from the entire depth of the root zone at multiple locations.

Attach it as an image instead; take a screen shot and save it in any graphical program (block out your name to avoid any potential issues!), then upload it that way. PDF files won't link directly.

"the real value of alfalfa is the tremendous tap roots. 8ft in 12 months. then your subsequent plants will go down to that depth too." Not necessarily. Alfalfa does produce a tap root but its depth of penetration into the soil profile will depend on the local water table and the soil conditions. A high water table or easy access to groundwater and hardpan, heavy clay or bedrock will limit root depth. And unless anything else you are growing also produces a tap root - typically just a morphological response to drought or arid soil conditions - the roots will remain at a normal level for that plant, usually within the top 12 inches. That is where the majority of nutrients are concentrated and adequate oxygen. That is where the vast majority of ALL plant roots - even large trees - are located. Alfalfa is also a perennial crop and will regrow easily and pretty rapidly after the top growth is harvested. If you want to plant something else there later, you will need to remove at least a portion of the root mass.

Whatever you do, you do not need Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) on your lawn. Excess magnesium ions, which you have in spades, causes the soil to become gummy as if it were clay. That might have been the reason you got the soil test to begin with. The cation exchange value of 12.4 says the soil is not clay but has a healthy amount of particles which do not hold onto cations. In other words, sand. That means your soil has some ability to hold ionic nutrients, but nothing like clay does. It is entirely possible to have gummy, sandy, soil. Your organic matter looks good. Still I would use organic fertilizer rather than chemical fertilizer. That's just me. Soil pH is below 7 making it slightly acidic. The ion that often makes a soil acidic is sulfate, so stay away from fertilizers heavy in sulfate, for example ammonium sulfate. It would appear the soil has plenty of calcium, which is normally how people raise the pH of their soil, but you're already up there with both Ca and Mg. It could be that previous owners simply did what their neighbors did and dumped lime every year just because. I am not a soil test guy. The real soil test folks recognize the interactions between the current chemistry and the consequences of adding additional chemistry. I cannot tell you what to use, when, how often, or where to find products. What morpheuspa did not mention was that you could get the $25 soil test from Logan Labs in Ohio and get it read on the other website. They will do the Logan Labs reading for free, and do a much better and more authoritative job than I'll ever be able to do.