haliwa01 , What you are saying makes perfect since too me, and will you too if you think about it for a minute. In regards to lime tells me your soil is naturally acidic by nature. I believe that is quite common for NC soils. So what that means is it will be a continuous battle for you with annual or bi-annual applications of lime just to keep at the bottom end of the optimum PH range. If you slip or miss applications your soil will turn sour quickly. It just means you have to apply lime at least every year to stay a float. Starter fertilizer contains a large dose of Phosphorous which explains your recent jump in the soil test. There is not any thing wrong with your P levels as they are just slightly above optimum levels, you just have enough for now to last a while. IMHO all you have to do in the future is lime once or twice a year and stay organic. By staying organic your NPK ratios should stay in optimum ranges. If your yearly soil test indicates otherwise; then deal with it on a post-reactive measure rather than pre-active.

I am a dedicated proponent of nutrient-dense foods, and belong to a community-supported co-op to get those foods. But... You're writing this in a LAWN forum, and making numerous assumptions that I don't feel are valid. I reviewed what was on the linked site, and have these comments: (1) the depth at which soil is tested for lawns/turf is not optimal for lawns. Food plants are deeper-rooted than typical turf. This requires adjustments to be made. (2) There is an assumption that the nutrients and minerals can be worked into the soil. Again, the FAQ on the site has a section for adjusting for surface-only applications, but that requires additional adjustments. The adjustments are not minor, and are real problems for the soil biology if the amounts are not adjusted - if the full amounts recommended are applied to the surface all at once, they can cause toxic levels of items like Copper and Boron to be created in the top 1"-2" of soil shortly after application is made. When treating lawns, surface-applications are typically the ONLY way to make nutrient applications to mature turf. (3) I don't see anything that makes adjustments for the season/climate of the area for applications. It's a one-size-fits-all plan. There are numerous nuances that need to be accounted for - people should not apply some nutrients at certain (stressful) times of the year, like mid-summer. We spread out applications to minimize sudden changes in soil chemistry and biology. (4) There are large differences in care regimens for different grasses - a Bermudagrass lawn has a very different care regimen than a Kentucky Blue Grass regimen. (5) The linked calculator recommends that a Soil Analyst be consulted if Lime has been applied in the past three years. In areas where Lime is useful, my experience is that 75% of the lawns have had Lime applied in the past three years -- rightly or wrongly. My experience is that errors very rarely come from Soil Analysts -- they come most-often from bad sampling techniques, taking a sample just after applying nutrients and mistakes during entering the data into things like calculators (PPM/lbs-acre mistakes, etc). An experienced soil test interpreter will spot errors like that pretty often, but a calculator will not -- it will make the calculations based on what was entered. It's garbage-in, garbage-out like all automated products are. Those of us that work as "soil crazies" at the other site build a full annual program based on grass types, whether the owner wants to use synthetics or organic sources, the owner's goals (nice vs showplace), soil types, seasonality and climate. The plans minimize soil disturbance, and maximize the use of soil biology and remineralization to achieve goals. We review each other's work to minimize any potential for errors. I didn't find the site that you linked to valuable to lawn owners - it's great for organic garden owners, but there are far too many adjustments that need to be done for lawns.

I really don't like their recommendations for a number of reasons. One, sulfur doesn't work. Surface applied, you'll lose three quarters to outgassing to the atmosphere as sulfur dioxide (smog), so thanks for the air pollution. :-) They also recommend some rather difficult or expensive sources (11-52-0, for example). I have monoammonium phosphate on hand. You almost certainly don't. And so on. The zinc and copper aren't necessary, both levels are perfectly reasonable in your soil. In the below, I've assumed you have a northern lawn. If that's incorrect, this will still work, but southern lawns would benefit from a slightly different schedule. ME 22.9: This is a little overinflated by your excess calcium, which results in an ME that's somewhat high. I'm using a standard of 15 for soil applications as it's safe to do so. pH 7.6: Kind of high, but get used to it. There's not terribly much you can do about it (as mentioned, surface applied sulfur does not work very well). Fortunately, lawns are extremely tolerant of a pH in this range, although color will suffer a bit. OM 5.5%: In the Good range, so no specific work needs to be done here. Sulfur 13: Well within normal range. Phosphorus 147: While a bit low, it's nothing extreme and unlikely to be causing much in the way of visible problems. Still, with your pH, I'd really prefer this to be in the 260 range (higher pH levels inhibit phosphorus release). We use good old-fashioned starter fertilizer to do this--just get the cheapest as they all work the same. Recommendations below. Calcium 80.8%: High, but not a problem, and almost impossible to dispel. Certainly avoid any calcium sources. Magnesium 12.9%: On paper, a tad low. In reality, it's just fine--your very high Ca levels are masking some of the Mg in your soil. Your plants have no trouble getting all the magnesium they need, and then some. Don't add more. Potassium 1.8%: This is short on paper, and looks shorter in the soil than it really is. It should be enhanced, but not quite to the levels their recommendations listed. We use potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) for this, which some garden stores and landscape places carry--or they'll order it for you. Recommendations below. Minor Elements: Fine, but I do mention iron and boron below. Iron 110: Just fine and not a problem, but it won't produce the best color at a pH of 7.6. Whenever you like, you can apply Milorganite at the bag rate to very slowly raise this. Boron 0.55: A tad low. This won't be an issue, but I would like to correct it. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 7.5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: May 10: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. Memorial Day: Feed the lawn with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. June 15: Apply 3 tablespoons per thousand square feet (not a misprint!) of 20 Mule Team Borax. Labor Day: Feed the lawn with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. October 1: Feed the lawn with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. October 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

You're the second person in the last 6 months or so to post a Soil Savvy Report. Are they running infomercials or is some youtube "expert" recommending them or what? I'm guessing based on their description, that their extractant is some version of H3A. It was developed about 10 years ago but to my knowledge, it has never been calibrated and has not been adopted as an alternative or option in lieu of the accepted extractants for soil analysis by any soil science/agronomy program or professional lab. However, a few (very few) labs do provide H3A-1, 2 or 3 in addition to standard testing for a fee. In this case it is more akin to a saturated paste test than a soil nutrient test for soil amending/balancing. Consequently, I'm sorry, but IMO, it is of no use in making soil recommendations. I can't read some of the reports numbers (too out of focus), but FYI, per their literature, the pH they report will be about .5 lower than actual pH. Onward: I know of no single organic fertilizer source with anything near a balanced NPK. Edit: (although there may be some with minuscule values--paging dchall) Most big box stores will carry a synthetic balanced or triple NPK fertilizer but they will most often be labeled as "garden" food or fertilizer (10-10-10, 12-12-12, 19-19-19 etc) and will be in small packages of 5-10lbs. You'll get a much better per unit price from a garden center or feed store or co-op or SiteOne store in 50 lb bags. Follow j4c's advice to calculate amounts needed and cost comparison. I would agree with dchall's advice if this was an established lawn, but for new turf, fertilize at 1/2 bag rate (or at 1/2# of N) every two weeks and then 1# June 1, then do nothing but water and mow until you start the Fall regimen around Late August. Good luck.