JannSM - It's not my garden. I wish it was! It's a curb garden right by a bank building. Whoever is landscaping it does a great job with the impatiens. I mean seriously they look like small bushes. I've seen photos on google of that happening in FL. They almost grow up to my knees. Dang. I keep forgetting to take my camera with me when I cross by that area. I'll see if I can get a snap. I better hurry, because they are melting away, very much like they did last year. My garden right now is filled with coleus. They exploded these last couple weeks and crowded everything else out. There are a couple Impatiens W. buried under the coleus, just blooming away in silence. I am tempted to take a cutting. If anything to look at them and inspect the leaves. Thinking over I wonder if my little Impatiens volunteers, hiding under the coleus, happened because some neighbor, trying to be helpful, raked away the wood chip mulch and left the ground bare. The wood chips might have insulated the seeds. I went in and filled it with coco mulch - which was my plan last year, but wasn't able to do it. If such plants need light to sprout, I wonder how they got it? Unless the rain washed away some of that mulch and kept it wet enough. Maybe the raking helped remove some of the infected plant material? I don't know. I'm still going to be very conservative with impatiens. Now knowing part sun flowers may bloom in my spot, I may use petunias as the more dominant flower attraction for next year. This post was edited by fieldofflowers on Wed, Sep 3, 14 at 3:40

While I’m thinking about the orchard and waiting for it to wake up from the winter, I figured now might be a good time to give an update on my hobby orchard. See the first post in this thread for more background info. My recording thermometer in the orchard confirms that the location is solidly in zone 4a, with the lows over the last 4 winters being -23F, -29F, -35F, and -25F. In addition to the cold injury and highly variable spring temperatures, disease has emerged as a serious problem that I need to get under control. It looks likely that I will lose 3 or 4 of my 7 apple trees to fireblight, and I have lost an alarming number of stone fruit trees to some sort of disease, possibly bacterial canker. I know that you are supposed to prune stone fruit after leaf out because of disease concerns, but I hadn’t seen any disease in the orchard and got lazy and pruned my stone fruits in April of 2016 along with everything else. Most of those pruned stone fruits died that summer L. I had been trying to only spray the trees when I saw a problem, but I’ve decided to spray with a combined insect/fungal spray once per month. And I will not prune stone fruits till summer, and even then I will try to disinfect pruners and do as little pruning as I can get away with. On to the individual variety info… Honeyberries: I’ve got one bush each of Borealis, Tundra, and an unspecified pollinator. All are very slow growing. They look happy enough, but the largest is only ~3ft (1m) tall and wide after 4 growing seasons. There were a handful of flowers each of the last two years, and I saw a few green berries last year, but they disappeared before they were fully ripe. I didn’t see any berry carcasses on the ground, so I suspect birds/rodents. Blueberries (multiple bushes of each variety): Herbert: Significant winter damage the winter when we had -35F, but still alive and producing berries. Patriot: Hardier than I expected as it only received tip damage during the -35F winter. Good producer. St. Cloud: Only slight winter damage. Good producer Polaris: Smallest of the bushes. Surprisingly died back to snow line during the -35F winter. Northblue: No winter damage at all. Modest producer. Wild Highbush: 2 bushes found wild on the property and transplanted to the orchard. There shouldn’t be any wild highbush plants that can survive anywhere near this area, but there they were. Definitely smaller berries than the cultivated varieties, but I would say they are somewhat larger than the wild lowbush blueberries that are all over the area. The bushes are at least 4ft tall and even wider than that. Two out of the three years they have been there, they have produced copiously. No winter damage. I might start trying to layer these to make more. Raspberries: Pequot(black): Died to snowline during -35F winter, but seem to be OK out to the tips after the most recent -25F winter. Haven’t gotten any berries yet due to heavy deer browsing. I didn’t expect to need to cage raspberries since there are numerous wild raspberries and blackberries in the woods that manage to survive the deer. I guess these are just too tempting sticking out obviously in the middle of a field. I’ve lightly caged them now, so hopefully they can get some good growth. Autumn Bliss(primocane red): Also heavily deer browsed, but I did get a handful of berries both from summer and fall harvests last year. Large, soft berries that seemed fairly bland. Maybe it was just a bad year. Many berries had Asian fruit fly larvae inside. Moderate spreading through runners. Canes surprisingly died down to snow line after -25F this past winter. Not really a problem as I’m planning to manage them for primocane harvest only. These are now lightly caged as well. Cherry: Lapins: Winter damaged its first year and completely killed by -29F in its second winter. Mesabi: Planted 2016 to replace Lapins, and made it through -25F this past winter with no noticeable damage. Evans(aka Bali): This had been my most promising tree in the entire orchard. Grew from ~18” (0.5m) to over 10ft (3m) in 3 seasons and was covered in flowers the last two springs(though no cherries). Leafed out fine and flowered last year after the early pruning, but by mid-late summer the vast majority of the tree was dead. L Bark on part of the trunk had split by fall, so I suspect bacterial canker? There is a sprout coming off the trunk an inch or two above the soil line that was still alive last fall. Hopefully it survives. The really unfortunate part is that a root sucker (it is a tissue cultured tree) popped up a few feet away from the tree when the main trunk started dying, but that sucker accidentally got mowed down. Carmine Jewel (UofS bush): 2 bushes. Growing very well and covered in flowers the last two springs. Seemed to set some fruit last year, but they all dropped. Both now about 5ft tall. One is showing serious signs of disease with a big split on the bark of the main trunk and about half the top looking dead. Perhaps due to bacterial canker from pruning too early? One plant has a root sucker that is growing very well, hopefully the diseased one puts up a sucker before it dies. Crimson Passion (UofS bush): 2 bushes. Very similar story to the other UofS bushes. Growing very well and covered in flowers the last two springs. Seemed to set some fruit last year, but they all dropped. Both now about 5ft tall. One showed extremely pale looking leaves last summer, but no other obvious signs of disease and looks alive now. Peach: Had a McKay and a Contender. Both grew OK during their first year and then died completely during the first winter. Apricots(planted 2015 to replace the peaches): Westcot: Never really seemed to grow well after planted. Showed signs of possible winter (dead tips) damage after -35F winter. Dead by late summer of their second year. Possibly another victim of bacterial canker? Debbies Gold: Never really seemed to grow well after planted. Showed signs of possible winter (dead tips) damage after -35F winter. Dead by late summer of their second year. Possibly another victim of bacterial canker? Plum: Black Ice: Grew well for 2 years with no winter damage. Flowers in the 2nd and 3rd springs. In summer of third year, leaves turned pale and then yellowed. Tree died by September. I have no explanation for the leaf color changing, but I did prune the tree that year in May. Perhaps some disease was transmitted then? Maybe it was bacterial canker again? But no signs of issues on the trunk. Superior: Same story as Black Ice. Grew extremely vigorously for 2 years with no winter damage. Flowers in the 2nd and 3rd springs. In summer of third year, leaves turned pale and then yellowed. Tree died by September. I have no explanation for the leaf color changing, but I did prune the tree that year in May. Perhaps some disease was transmitted then? Maybe it was bacterial canker again? But no signs of issues on the trunk. American Plum Seedling: Planted as a pollinator for Black Ice and Superior. Has grown vigorously every year with a very twiggy habit. Flowered every spring except first, though no fruit yet. Pruned every year, but has shown no signs of disease. Waneta: planted spring 2017 as a companion for the American plum seedling. Green Gage: Planted 2016. Very sad looking all year and never really grew. Looks dead now, but won’t know for sure till after leaf-out. Opal: Planted 2016. Very sad looking all year and top never really grew. Quite a few root suckers, but the top might be dead. Won’t know for sure till after leaf-out. Pear: Hudar: Died back to 12” first winter. Died to snowline 2nd winter. Supposedly hardy to zone 3. Pulled out because I did not expect it to ever really grow. Nova: Some winter damage both of first two years, but multiple catalog sources indicate this should be OK to zone 3. Accidentally killed in 2015 while working nearby. Replanted with a new Nova tree in 2016. Didn’t put much growth on and looked dead in early September. I thought it was done for, but there was still green under the bark in October as well as this spring all the way out to the tips, so maybe it just went dormant super-early last year for some reason. Will know more in a month. Patten: Planted 2016 to replace Hudar. Grew well in first year and looks like no winter damage. Stacey (aka Stacyville): Planted 2017. Grapes: Sommerset Seedless: Planted 2014. Barely survived first year with little growth. Entire top died over first winter, but tiny root suckers grew up during the summer. I judged them too small to be worth keeping, so I killed them end of 2015. Replanted with same variety from a different source in 2016. Grew OK and actually ended up with one tiny cluster of blueberry-sized grapes that I didn’t see earlier or I would have pruned off. The grapes didn’t actually fully ripen, but still had that delicious strawberry flavor that people mention. The small (~3’, 1m) vines were laid down for the winter. Took significant winter damage, but areas low down look alive. Pruned down to live areas (~8”) and tied up to fencing. Bluebell: Planted 2014. Poor growth the first year. Did not survive to the second spring. Replanted with the same variety from a different source in 2016. Grew well over the first summer. Took some Japanese beetle damage. 4-5’ vines laid down over the winter. Tips look dead, but much of the vines alive. Pruned to a pair of 2’ stems this spring and tied up onto some fencing. Marquette: Two plants planted in 2014. Decent growth in first year. Didn’t appear to harden off the first fall. Both tops appeared to winter-kill, but one had strong growth from a root sucker. The other died. The dead plant was replaced with the same variety from a different source in 2016. The originally surviving plant had some tip die-back, but most of stem was alive even after -35F winter. It was pruned back to just a few buds. Both new and old plants grew well last year. The older plant had flower clusters, but I pruned off all but one small cluster. The new plant grew to ~5’ and the older one grew to ~8’. The one cluster grapes tasted pretty good in early October (especially for one that is primarily intended to be a wine grape). Some winter tip damage on both plants this year, but majority of the stems seemed OK. Smaller plant pruned to just a few buds, larger plant with multiple fairly thick stems was pruned to two 3’ (1m) stems that I hope will become permanent heads for an umbrella-kniffen pruning system on my fencing. American Cranberry: Planted in 2014. Stevens variety. I don’t give them any protection over the winter. Leaves turn purple each fall and remain purple till May, when they green up and start growing. Some minor rodent damage with tips nipped off one winter, but no noticeable winter damage. It is not in any sort of wet area. Just in an acidic, sandy area next to the blueberries (they like similar soil). Flowers in June. Got a half-dozen berries the 2nd year and ~2 cups worth in the 3rd year (last year). The patch started as two 4” potted plants that were each split in half and planted in a ~18” (0.5m) square pattern. The patch filled in nicely with runners, but hasn’t spread like I was hoping. It is about 24” square now. If it doesn’t start spreading this year, I might buy some lingonberries to go in the area where I was expecting the cranberries to grow into. Apples: Honeycrisp: Planted 2013. Grew solidly each year. Now ~10’. Never any noticeable winter damage. Very nice branch structure with little pruning needed. Had some flowers last spring. Last fall something didn’t seem right with a number of my apple trees, including this one. I’m fairly new to orcharding, and certainly to disease recognition. Areas of the branches and stem had a dark gray color and lichen is growing on it, so I was starting to suspect fireblight. The dark areas are even more prominent now, and I’m convinced that it is a major fireblight infection. Looks like the main trunk may be girdled by the infection. This tree might be a lost cause. Chestnut Crab: Planted 2013. Has grown well each year. Needed a ladder to prune this year, perhaps 13’ (4m) tall. No winter damage any year. Flowers the last two springs, but no apples yet. Might be showing early signs of fireblight, but it’s not as obvious as on other apples, so I’m not sure. Sweet Sixteen: Planted 2016. Grew well last year and looks happy with no signs of winter damage. Liberty: Planted 2016. Most places say this variety shouldn’t be hardy enough for zone 4a, but I saw somebody down the road had a moderate-sized tree, and he said he’s had it for 6+ years (including at least one winter with -35F), so I put one in. No sign of winter damage after its first winter. With the recent fireblight outbreak, I’m glad I have at least one highly resistant variety planted. Ashmead’s Kernel: Planted 2013. Never grew much at all. Showed winter damage at least two years and was showing signs of disease. Barely alive after 3 years, so I put it out of its misery in fall of 2015. Dabinett: Always broke bud later than other varieties and always looked dead, but kept coming alive for a few years, albeit with winter tip damage. Never grew much. Finally died in 2015. Honeygold: Planted 2013. Had minimal roots when planted, so I didn’t expect much. But it grew like crazy and never looked back. Never any winter damage. Tallest tree in the orchard at ~14’. Flowers the last two springs, but no apples. I had high hopes for it. Much like the Honeycrisp, something didn’t look right last summer/fall. Looks to be a serious fireblight infection that is likely to kill the tree. Golden Russet: Planted 2013. Grew modestly each year. Now ~8’. Some minor winter damage some years, and never seemed to thrive. Never seemed to want to form a central leader. Seems like it is showing signs of serious fireblight now. I don’t have high hopes for this tree. Wealthy: Planted 2014. Grows solidly each year with no signs of winter damage. Every year there are lots of sprouts from below the graft, but the top keeps growing fine. No flowers yet, but hopefully this is the year. No sign of fireblight. Hazelnuts: Skinner x (Graham and Winkler): 4 seedlings. Should be blight and cold tolerant. Purchased from Saint Lawrence nursery, where I saw the parents. The parents were impressive >15’ (3m) hedges, though they did not appear to have many nuts when I saw them. I was also told by a hazelnut breeder that any nuts from them are likely to be small. All 4 are growing well with 3 out of the 4 showing zero winter damage. The 4th only has dieback on the catkins. The actual vegetative buds have not been damaged. I got a total of 3 nuts from 2 of these bushes in 2015. They were dime and penny sized before shelling. Tasted good. No nuts last year. All of these are 7-8’ tall. They all harden off very well each fall. Yamhill: This is a commercial Oregon variety with big nuts that is blight tolerant, but probably cold sensitive. It has showed tip dieback each winter and died to ground one winter, but survived the -35F winter with only tip dieback and has been gaining in size for the last two years, so maybe it will actually survive long-term. It actually even has catkins this spring. Doesn’t seem to consistently harden off in fall. I’m willing to tolerate frequent minor winter damage from this plant if it can provide some commercial-sized nuts when we get an occasional, mild winter. H2R8P47 X H3R13P40: Should be blight and cold tolerant. Two of these seedlings. Some tip damage each winter and one died to snowline during the -35F winter. Now 5-7’, but cold hardiness has not been as good as hoped, especially since these are likely to produce small nuts. Doesn’t seem to consistently harden off in fall. Luvalls #3 X Santiam: Should be blight tolerant and have decent nuts. Two of these seedlings. Tip damage some winters, but not every year. ~5-6’ tall. Doesn’t seem to consistently harden off in fall, but these are showing some promise. LaFeuillage X H3R13P40: Should be cold hardy, but blight tolerance unknown. Showed no winter damage any year. Now 6’ and for the first time has a few catkins and I think even a few flowers. Definitely encouraging. Luvalls #3 X H3R13P40: Should be blight tolerant, but with questionable cold hardiness. More tip damage than most and died to ground one winter. Doesn’t seem to consistently harden off in fall. Only 4’. This is a candidate to get yanked at some point if I need more room. Badgersett Hazels: Hopefully 4 of them going in this summer, if they ever show up. Chestnuts: 8 seedlings that were crosses of various amounts of Chinese and American parentage. Not going to spend any time describing them because most have completely died. I think 3 are still alive, but have died to the snow line or ground level each winter. These will get pulled. I do have 4 Badgersett chestnuts on order that should show up soon. These are probably also a stretch for 4a, but dammit, I want Chestnuts!

Kordes roses are very healthy ... I see Kordes Flower-Carpet series perform best in both dry and wet weather. Here's an excerpt from below link how how hardy & no-spray Kordes roses are for cold-zones: http://www.denverrosesociety.org/education/Kordes_Roses.pdf The ADR is both one of the highest awards a rose variety can attain, and one of the most severe trials for roses worldwide. It is a three year evaluation of new varieties in 11 locations throughout Germany. The plants are given no protection in this challenging Northern European climate. No plant protection sprays are used. Of the 102 varieties which have received this designation since 2000, 42 were bred by Kordes. Fairy Tale™ Roses are Kordes’ answer to David Austin. Among them are: Cinderella Fairy Tale™ 2003 Healthy foliage; light-pink, abundant, very full flowers; excellent for hedges/ Grimm Brothers Fairy Tale™ 2002 ADR; healthy foliage; brilliant, very double, orange/apricot flowers with a yellow reverse; blooms in clusters; slight fragrance; Lions Fairy Tale™ 2002 ADR; vigorous, glossy, extremely healthy foliage; upright and elegant plant; cream white flowers age to apricot/pink; slight fragrance; Pomponella Fairy tale™ 2006 ADR; vigorous, healthy foliage; proliferate bloomer; dark pink, round buds open to cupped blooms borne in clusters; species rose scent; Vigorosa Roses are a group of vigorous, continuous-blooming, healthy, landscape and ground cover roses in a range of vibrant colors. Fragrances are slight. The catalog lists Apricot, Fortuna (pink), Toscana (raspberry red), Salmon, Ruby, Innocencia (white), and Sweet (crimson pink). Frilly Toscana looks especially interesting. Climbing Max is a collection of the most beautiful and disease resistant climbers recently created by Kordes. They are: Kordes Aloha/Aloha Hawaii™ 2003 Very double blooms of apricot, orange, pink and red come in trusses of up to ten blooms with a delicate, fruity fragrance. Amadeus™ 2003 Classic, brilliant, blood red blooms come continually in trusses of 5 to 7 with a slight fragrance. Gold Medals from The Hague, Lyon and Geneva. Kordes Golden Gate™ 2006 ADR; Double, golden yellow blooms come in trusses of 5 to 10 with intense fresh citrus scent. Prix de Parfum winner, Paris. Jasmina™ 2005 ADR; has an abundance of violet-pink flowers with a rich, sweet fragrance. Laguna™ 2004 ADR; has deep pink, very double old-fashioned blooms with intense fruity fragrance. Kordes Moonlight™ 2004 Semi-double, copper-yellow blooms in clusters of 4 to 6 have rich fragrance. Rosanna™ 2002 Brilliant, double, salmon-pink climber with deeply cupped blooms that come in large trusses. Slight fragrance. Gold Medals from The Hague, Lyon and Geneva. Veranda™ Roses, also known as the Flower Circus series, are a group of compact floribundas for gardeners with limited space. The plants of this series range between 2 and 3 feet when mature, making them perfect for small spaces and patio containers. All have slight fragrance. Flower sizes appear to be those of large mini-floras. Balconia™ Roses are low-growing, trailing plants, ideal for hanging baskets and planters placed on walls. All of them have a uniform spreading habit, appealing blooms in interesting colors, abundant one-inch flowers borne in clusters with good repeat, and abundant semi-glossy to glossy foliage. Besides Raspberry, the plants come in white (Innocencia), salmon/pink (Electric), Hot Pink, Apricot and red (Toscana). Fruitilia™ Roses do double duty. In addition to lovely garden blooms in the summer, these varieties will produce sprays of rose hips for fall and winter cutting. The hips vary in size and color from plant to plant. All of the Fruitilias are productive and easy to maintain with a long vase life, and are available in a choice of colors including coffee, orange and red. Freelander™ Roses are cutting garden roses, bred for a long vase life. Fragrances are moderate to strong. Some of these are: Caramel Antique Freelander™ is a large-flowered, elegant, buff-yellow variety with a vase life of 12 days. Cinderella Freelander™ is a moderately fragrant. Abundant, glossy foliage, good fragrance, and a vase life of 8 to 10 days. Corrie Freelander™ is a relatively carefree plant with spectacular hot pink blooms carried on long stems. Vase life is 12 days. Fantasia Mondiale Freelander™ produces large, double, apricot/pink blooms on long stems with semi-glossy abundant foliage. Vase life is 10 days. Ice Girl Freelander™ is a vigorous, white rose that is extremely weather-resistant. Has intense fragrance, hybrid tea form and a vase life of 6 to 8 days. Magma Freelander™ is one of the leading cut roses in European markets. It is an eye-catching yellow/red bi-color with hybrid tea form and a vase life of two weeks. The Kordes Hybrid Teas listed below are both beautiful and healthy. Berolina 1986 This rose is hardy and robust enough to survive almost total neglect on our back fence. It has long-lasting, high-centered, lemon-yellow blooms with a slight red blush. Beverly 2007 This is a recent Kordes release, and is on the Macon wish list. The color is a luscious mix of several shades of pink, and the centers are high. Its intense, fruity fragrance won the Perfume Award at Baden-Baden in 2008. Grand Amore 2004 ADR. This Gold Medal winner has been in my garden for two years, and is already a favorite. It is a very vigorous, hardy plant that produces large, high-centered, bright red, non-fading flowers contrasted with dark green foliage on long stems that just beg to be cut. La Perla 2008 This rose is for you if you aren’t interested in showing all of your hybrid teas, but want a vigorous, hardy, gorgeously old-fashioned rose. Parole/Buxom Beauty 2001 Depending on where you order this rose, it will be called one name or another. It really is a buxom beauty, and a true show rose. The large, deep-pink blooms with a burgundy edge are consistently high-centered. The plant is very disease resistant and has shiny green leaves, long stems, exceptional hardiness and vigor. To complete this prize package, its rich, intense scent won Perfume Awards in Madrid and Nantes. From Steve Singer at Wisconsin Roses, budded on multiflora. Valencia 1989 This rose is a high-centered, very large-flowered, apricot show rose. It is also a true garden classic, being very showy in the front of a border, as it is not a tall plant. Mine is on its own roots and has been totally hardy and floriferous for 10 years. Winner of the Henry Edland Medal for fragrance. If you are growing roses along Colorado’s front range, chances are there is already a Kordes rose or two in your garden. Mine include floribundas Nicole, Iceberg (Schneewittchen), Sunsprite (Friesia) and Gold Marie; climbers Summerwine, Rosarium Uetersen, Ilse Krohn and Dortmund; Red Ribbons (Mainaufeuer) shrublet; grandiflora Vera Johns; and hybrid teas Bride’s Dream, Folklore, Helen Naude, Liebeszauber and Sandra. All are hardy and disease resistant. Credit for this article goes to Palatine Roses, which supplied the literature. Carol Macon, Consulting Rosarian" http://www.denverrosesociety.org/education/Kordes_Roses.pdf

Cup_shaped roses is Niels in Denmark. He grows 400+ roses, zone 5b, acidic clay: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1719734/lifespan-of-a-grafted-rose cupshaped_roses(6) In my experience bareroot (grafted) modern roses .., have a few years where they look really great ...then they seem to decline - almost grow backwards - and I end up replacing them with new plants. It may however be a matter of rootstocks? Up until the 1980es - R. Canina species was most often used as rootstocks over here - (Rose Canina Pfanders in Germany - Rosa Canina Laxa in milder/warmer areas - like France and England - but most use R. Multiflora today.cupshaped_roses(6) **** In the above thread, Roseseek (Kim Rupert) reported Grafted-on-Dr.Huey can survive 30 years in dry California. Also Seil in sandy soil, zone 6a, reported grafted-on-Dr.Huey being 50 years old in her mother's garden. Nearby alkaline clay rose-park, zone 5a: they replace their Austins (grafted on Dr.Huey) every 2 to 4 years. Their longest grafted-rose is Double Delight, more than 5 years old. Dr.Huey rootstock, being drought-tolerant, can't handle soaking wet clay that turns into freezing ice in zone 5a winter. But grafted-on-Dr. Huey lives long in dry-climate like California, or in loamy/sandy soil like Seil's in Michigan. From Heirloom roses: "The place where the bud has been added, called the crown or bud-union, is a weak area on the plant. A hard, freezing winter can easily damage the crown, leaving only the rootstock to grow. " trospero(8) Paul Barden This is why I despise 'Dr. Huey' as a rootstock. You can be guaranteed that at some point in the life of the rose, 'Dr. Huey' will send up suckers that you will never, ever be able to stop. This is just what it does. The joke around here is that it is everybody's favorite rose because in May, there is no other rose you will see more blooming plants of than 'Dr. Huey' trospero(8) **** Agree with Paul Barden on Dr. Huey. In my Chicagoland, all the neighbors' roses which are grafted on Dr.Huey: either they die, or roostock take-over and become 10 feet tall rambling-eye-sores. For that reason, I post-pone getting some Austins until they are offered as own-root. bigtruckerdave(7 NC)April 7, 2013: Today I found enormous suckers growing about 3 feet from where I removed 2 Alba Maximas in the spring of 2012. And they were grafted on Dr Huey. jerijen(Zone 10) I haven't had Dr. Huey sucker in quite that manner -- but I have seen Dr. Huey suckers pop up about 6 ins. out from the bud union. What I HAVE had sucker that far away from the plant is Multiflora rootstock. Those ALL suckered rampantly here -- http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1621052/dr-huey-rootstock?n=7