It has a buy it now of $1300. Ill be honest, as much as I love my lawn boy commercials; for $1300 you can buy one heck of a mower, and that 22260 isn't it. Ill take an Ex-mark 21" with a Kawasaki for 1k over the 22260 at $1300. I don't think that unit will bring that price. But a sucker is born every day right? j/k But really..... buy a clean Duraforce with cast deck and put new greaseable wheels and a fuel tank on it and WOW! its a $1300 mower for $250! Kyle

I say neither -- get a Toro 20332 ($349 at Home Depot, I think). To me, Personal Pace is more valuable than the high rear wheels, and you'll get rear wheel drive instead of front, which is an advantage when the grass bag starts to get heavy. If you have holes in your yard, fill them with dirt and then you won't have to worry. Lawn Boy, which has been owned by Toro for several years, is a dying brand. Toro parts and service are available everywhere and likely will be for many years to come. There is no longer anything at all unique or special about Lawn Boy mowers -- they're just rebadged and repainted Toros with a few random features to differentiate them from Toro models. Electric start is overrated IMO and is more trouble than it's worth because there's more to go wrong. I'd keep it simple and stick with the pull cord (aka recoil) starter.

Please save the negative comments re Lawnboy 2 cycles. I used mine for 21 years and never, ever had a problem until a crack in the aluminum housing literally pulled the engine apart, it lost compression, and there were no parts available to fix it. Loved that mower, loved the 2 cycle, the scent of the exhaust (reminded me of being out on my boat), and the reliability. Nothing on the market will pick up clippings and leaves as well as that mower did, nothing. Caruso

It would be cool to have one of those Toro commercials with the 'V' engine, but $350 would be more like it. The 'V' was the predecessor to the 'E' (Duraforce) and had squared-off cooling fins, iron cylinder liner and full roller bearings. It was assembled mostly with 'Tri-Round' thread-forming screws that tended to vibrate loose. The lower crank bearing tends to get excessive wear, making for too much end play in the crank which puts the rod journal and wrist pin bearings in a bind. It's possible that a well-maintained 'V'-engined mower may not have this problem. I think many have the same problem mine (1994 10201) did - the muffler cover bolts loosened and backed out until they started to be hit by the blade, which would exert a lot of force on the lower bearing, possibly pulling the crank down over time. This also caused the bolts to wallow in the threads of the muffler plate which ruined that too. The shroud base mounting screws also loosened and the base legs eventually cracked. If I had been diligent with checking all fasteners on the mower at least before, once during, and after the season, I may have avoided all the problems I had with it. I had never had a mower before that required such attention, so I didn't start doing that until after I had to practically rebuild the mower.