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fertilzer and picture help

13 years ago

Anyone know where I can buy 0-60-0 granular fertilizer? After my soil test results I am trying to mix my own. Need to put out 0.8 lbs/1000 N(33-0-0), 2.2 lbs/1000 P, and 0.3 lbs K/1000(0-0-62). I have found the N and K.

Any ideas?

I have also been trying to post pictures in other posts but I can't figue it out. Would love some help. Thanks

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Comments (8)

dchall_san_antonio
13 years ago
For posting pictures, first you need to have a URL for the photo. THat means it must be posted on the Internet somewhere. Mine are posted at Dropbox. Here's the URL for one of mine.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/324082/QQ%27s%20lawn%20at%20five%20eighths%20of%20an%20inch%20-1.jpg

Note that the URL starts with http and ends with .jpg. Those are required. What goes between that will differ depending on where your images are hosted.

Then the code you need to post looks like this.

with the greater than and less than brackets on each end. So mine would look like this.

and looks like this when posted.

{{gwi:81726}}
texas_weed
13 years ago
Well I assume you got those odd ratios from a soil test right? Completely ignore whatever it says about nitrogen, especially since you have Bermuda grass, it is meaningless. You are going to need 1 pound of nitrogen per 100/ft2 every 30 days.

I would also not advise chasing some non existent ratio, Bermuda grass is not that picky, all it really wants is nitrogen.

There is a commercial product that is almost the perfect ratio and any garden center carries it. 10-20-10. Apply 10 pounds of product to every 1000/ft2 one time and you get just what the doctor ordered, and it is dirt cheap.

Then for the rest of the year apply a slow release urea 39-0-0 product every 30 days until 30 days before your first frost date..
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Oh that weed. Always has a reason to spoil the fun. Actually he beat me to it. Cottonseed does have chemical issues. I'm not sure that really amounts to anything just like I'm not sure the salt in rabbit food amounts to anything. I do agree that you will not get the grass to do much more by adding organic fertilizer to the chemical. HOWEVER, adding organic is not a total wash out. It has been noticed that there can be a yo-yo effect from using chemical fertilizers for long periods of time. What happens is you get on a roll with chemical fertilizers and soon enough the grass is entirely dependent on them. If you miss an application by a few days the grass turns to crappp before you get a chance to fertilize. Then you add more fertilizer to get it back on track and possibly overdose it. Again, as has been said, it is hard to OD with fertilizer on bermuda. One mitigating factor in this yo-yo cycle seems to be the occasional use of compost. So since I'm am mister anti-compost, I would suggest you use organic fertilizer at least once per year along with your chemical regimen. This should keep your soil microbes from total exhaustion and boost them back from chemical heck. In your back yard, simply starting to water should bring something to life. I have successfully restored a bermuda patch that was about 8x20 feet into 98% St Augustine. I expect full reclamation in a month or so. The St Aug died out completely in 2011 (oopsie on the watering) and is now recovered. TW keeps telling me that I can never get all the way back to St Augustine, but I've done it repeatedly over the years.
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Hi Cablestarman, The MG you added is pretty high in nitrogen in relationship to the phosphorus and potasium, and the Alaska has no nitrogen listed. I've seen many different ratios suggested for tomatoes, but what they have had in common is that the N is usually lower than the P & K, such as 5-10-10 or 3-4-6, or might be even with it like 10-10-10. As you may be aware, Nitrogen encourages leaf growth at the expense of blossoms and the fruit they produce, phosphorus helps with root developement and potasium is for overall health of the plant (I am ignoring the micro-nutrients which are also very important.) An easy way to remember what the N-P-K values help with is "Up-down-all around." All that goes to support what I am going to say next. . . . I think you can safely fertilize with the 0-10-10 after using the MG, especially since the "Organic Choice" implies it will be slower to release than some types of fertilizer. My personal recommendation would be to try half-strength or half-dosage and wait a week to see how they react, if you don't have any burning, etc., then apply the other half. A lot of the available literature suggests feeding at transplant and then every 2-3 weeks. I prefer to transplant, allow the seedlings to adapt for at about a week, then feed with a balanced or lower in N organic plant food. I feed again about a month and two months after that and then they are on their own. (My garden has pretty good soil.) Sandy soil may need feeding more often, and heavy soil less so. It is a good idea to get a soil test so you know what you have before you start changing it. Hope that helps. Betsy
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texas_weed
13 years ago
That should be " 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000/ft2.
tiemco
13 years ago
If you are still looking, most starter fertilizers have a high P. Lesco starter is 18-24-12. Scotts is lower, but it has a finer consistency, and dissolves faster.
tifway_crazy
Original Author
13 years ago
Thank yall for your help.

We have had a declining 419 yard for 3 years. Along with fert. We received news of a pH of 5. So lime is our first project.I have purchased and LOVE my new reel mower. Water 1 in per week in one sesion and put out the initial fert. Of a 15-5-10 (before the soil sample) at a rate of 1 lb/1000 sqft. I am giving it one more season to shape up or ship out.LOL I put the fert on April 22 so I am due for the N application next week. Just trying to do it right. Acidic pH in heavy blackland soil...go figure. Thought clay was suppose to be basic.
texas_weed
13 years ago
We received news of a pH of 5.

I don't mean to discourage you, but give up on Bermuda grass. You are never going to be able to ever correct the PH to a suitable level for Bermuda grass, Saint Augustine or any other type.

You only real option is Centipede grass. You will never have to add lime or worry about soil test ever again. Just drag an empty bag of fertilizer around the yard each spring and you are done for the year. Keep it watered and mow once a month whether it needs it or not.
john_in_sc
13 years ago
Surprisingly enough -- Bermuda + weeds is probably the #1 long term "Survivor" lawn around here.... which is totally crazy because we have amazingly poor clay soil full of rocks which averages 4.5 - 5.5 PH... Bermuda shouldn't really do well.... but just try to get rid of the stuff.....

Typically, you see these older "lawns" that probably started with something different... but eventually transform after years of short mowing into a mix of healthy Bermuda + miscellaneous short grassy weeds and clovers... but it makes a soft green carpet... Nice on your feet and it just hangs in there *forever*...

Sure, it will never be a Golf course green... but it is unbelievably drought tolerant and puts up surprisingly well with a giant dose of short mowing + benign neglect...

Thanks

John
botanicalbill
13 years ago
Tripple superphosphate is what you are seeking.
0-45-0

You used to be able to buy it in 50# bags but I think those days are gone.

Here is a link that might be useful: [0-45-0(http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-969-Triple-Super-Phosphate/dp/B000BZ6LK2/ref=sr_1_1/182-5042000-8974931?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1274209401&sr=8-1)

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