Make me understand if you seeded the whole yard or only where we see bare spots and new growth. I just want to make sure the tall grass is not new grass and was not a part of this seeding effort. If I'm right, I'd say give it more time for your circled areas to germinate. I am betting you haven't really had the ideal temperatures, but it will happen.

The construction and backhoe and all were murder on the grass and probably caused serious compaction. I suggest applying Nitron A-35 with a hose end sprayer. It is great for compaction and also says it helps with germination, but that is secondary at best.

It's also worth mentioning that spring isn't the best time to seed cool season grasses. When summer hits, you're likely to lose a fair amount of the grass unless you get lots of rain or can water fairly often. You may need to seed again in the fall.

Yes, throw some more seed down. This time, have the nozzle set to just mist, or as fine as you can get, to get the distance that you need, a very fine spray.

Move along, while watering. Move, move along. Do NOT puddle. If you're forming a puddle, you've put too much water in that spot. No puddling. Same with the sprouts, once they pop out. No puddling. There is no root to anchor that sprout, because the root hasn't grown yet. So no puddling. And there's no sense in putting a lot of water down, so called 'deep watering' because the sprout can't get at it: there's no root yet. If you float that sprout, you've killed it. No puddles, please. Move right along.

So light misting, as often as you can (meaning, with a job, it's likely to be just before you leave, and just when you get home. But if you've got the day off, a light mist every three to four hours would be ideal. And looking at that lot, and that layout (sidewalk in the middle), misting of that lawn should not take five full minutes.

thanks guys. by lurking around here, I quickly see that I have a lot to learn. Trust me I'm not fan of spending money and using my time/effort to no avail, but I'm just trying to make the best of the situation quickly so I don't have a dirt "lawn" all summer! I'm definitely planning to give it all the TLC it'll need in the fall too. With the whole summer thing, that's why I'm kind of impatient to wait it out and see how what's planted does. Temps have been around upper 60's day, upper 40's/low 50's at night. So I'd like to get something going before the furnace starts to kick up in the middle of June.

I just bought two bales of straw while I was running errands, so hopefully that'll help with keeping a more consistent level of moisture so the top doesn't dry out as readily as it's happening now without it. I decided I'm gonna throw more seed down after the flooding rains move through tomorrow night, and this time I'll back off with the puddling. I'm using a cheapo sprinkler right now, the oscillating type with 20 or so individual streams... but I need to use the hose to hit some other spots I got going anyway, so wouldn't be a big deal to hit it with a mist from the hose nozzle to distribute the water more evenly... good point about the depth of watering needed for new seedling roots.

FWIW, the grass along the house is established. The new growth that is doing decent is in narrow strip along the side of the lawn and the spot across the sidewalk from the blue circle... it's a very faint green in that picture. The circled spots have just a few blades popping through, so I'm not confident I'll have success in those spots.

Thanks again

and btw, thanks for the tip about the Nitrogen A-35!

philes21 is right on! No puddles!! Use your garden hose with a nozzle set on "rain" and move right along. The idea is to keep the seed bed moist so that the see can germinate.

If your mature grass is KB, it will fill in during optimal temperatures to about a dinner size plate. So keep that in mind.

As far as using straw, make sure it's weed-free. I know it's very difficult to find, but worth a try. If not, get some Pennmulch instead. But be prepare to pay much more than straw.

There might not be enough time for that bluegrass or fescue to get stablished before the summer, but the rye will. What you should start thinking about is a full lawn renovation in the fall...

Good luck with the project.

You could also use 1/4" of peat moss, which is cheaper than the Penn mulch and is weed free. It's not that expensive, either.

Yeah, IÂm going to do a lot of researching and I plan to really give my lawn a good workout in the fall. The front lawn is obviously a mess right now, but as far as my back yard goes for just moving in thereÂs really not a whole lot that I can complain about. ItÂs relatively thick and dark green, and there appears to be very few weeds, although IÂm not familiar if that remains to be seen as the season progresses. All that being said, as Âdecent as the yard currently is, I feel thereÂs a lot more potential in there.

The previous owner of the house was an older gentleman, and the neighbor took care of the yard for him. I gather from conversations with the neighbor that it was cared for, in a half-assed sort of way meaning that while it was occasionally seeded and fertilized, it was also mowed low, clippings were always bagged (for the neighbors own personal compost heap), and weeds were Âtaken care of by dumping spot-shot type chemicals. He definitely seems the nosey type, so heÂll probably be critical of every damn thing I do to it now that I own it, whatever.

But anyway, just not knowing exactly how the lawn was maintained, IÂm curious as to how it would look after a few weeks of work. A few things I have in mind are core aeration and overseeding with a cool-season blend in the fall. ThereÂs a blend on there right now, which really doesnÂt bother me IÂm not particular about mis-matching grass, other than a few spots of fine fescue that look out of place in open areas. IÂm also very interested in learning more about and incorporating organic lawn care rather than being a slave to Scotts. Furthermore, I plan to get a soil sample tested by the extension office to see what exactly IÂm working with.

As for now, IÂm just trying to get my feet wet by at least mowing down to only 3 1/8" and of course, trying to make my front yard look somewhat presentable!

Thanks again guys, I can tell I have a lot to learn, but IÂm really eager to! Just so excited I finally have a lawn to take care of, haha

I would suggest to stay away from peat moss unless your are going to lime the area at the same time. Peat moss is VERY acidic by nature and it will bring down the soil PH . KBG does not like acidic soils, its preference is between 6 and 7, 6.5 being ideal. Peat moss is 4.5 at best, good for centipede grass.

Peat moss is 4.5 at best, good for centipede grass.

True...but...

Zone 6 PA is probably east of State College (eastern side of the Appalachians), yes? If so, you have good, heavy clay or heavy silt. By weight, the peat isn't enough to shift the pH appreciably on that.

Sand, I'd worry about it.

Yep, clay. And yep, southeast of State College... Middletown to be exact. ;)

Gotcha. 1/4" of peat moss is going to disappear into that with, perhaps, an 0.05 point shift in pH.

Mind you, I'd still lime if you need it, but I wouldn't worry about a small amount of peat.