Should I use Scotts 'Weed and Feed' or '#2' ?

jlm41

14 years ago

I over seeded my yard on 15th April. It's been moved 3 times now. I am seeing little bit of weeds around.

I want to put another application of fertlizer with some weed control.

At bix box store I saw 2 scotts products:

1. Scotts weed and feed

2. Scotts turn builder with weed control #2

Which one should I use? Any advice/recommendations?

I am in central indiana.

Thank you.

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Comments (3)

dchall_san_antonio
14 years ago
Save money and get better results by fertilizing with fertilizer and, two weeks after you fertilize, killing any remaining weeds by spot spraying them with a weed killer like Weed-B-Gone. If the herbicide in weed-n-feed products was time delayed and worked like that, then they would be better, but they don't.

If all you are seeing is a 'little bit of weeds' and not an entire lawn full, you might consider the Weed Hound tool.
lamcon
14 years ago
I love my weed hound. Our lawn is at the point that we get so few weeds (using the organic techniques, cutting, and watering that everyone suggests on here) that the few weeds that do pop up are easy to get with the hound.

What I've learned is that if you can get your turf dense enough and keep it higher, the weeds become less of an issue. It's been 2 years since I used "chemicals", and I'm very happy! Not to mention, my kiddos can play outside at all times. It's a little slower process, but the results have been worth it so far.
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Okay I'm in San Antonio and moving to Bandera. Hold off on the fertilizer unless you want to use an organic like alfalfa pellets or corn meal. If you've never seen those flowers then you don't have buffalo. Can you take a picture on a cloudy day from a height of about 3 inches. If the grass has flowers or tassels or anything on it, that would help. You have not used the really hard stuff, but then you did use 7x too much, so I'd let things rest for a couple weeks. Today's herbicides often don't show progress for at least a week. If you have St Augustine, for example, 2,4-D will kill it. Applying anything at 7x the rate would probably wipe out St Aug. St Aug is a very hardy grass, but one weakness is sensitivity to most herbicides. It's weird. Let's figure out what grass you have before going crazy with treating it. If you water the fertilizer in immediately after applying, it should not hurt a normal grass. The problem comes if you don't water it and then the morning dew creates a very salty solution that will kill most grass (but not usually St Augustine - weird). If you have a hand sprayer of Weed b Gon, you could spray those dandelion looking weeds. Just spray the leaves - don't drench the soil. They might be thistle, which looks very similar before it flowers. As for fertilizing the lawn, I'd just enjoy the bluebonnets for a couple more weeks.
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The granular weed and feed is a foliar herbicide...to work, the granules need to remain in contact with the leaf they are stuck to for 24hrs or more. Weed and feed on the rootzone isn't an issue. If there are granules stuck to the leaves, hosing them off shortly after (<12 hrs) you realized your mistake would also work.
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You do NOT need a weed n feed product. You need a herbicide (middle of next month) and a fertilizer (next Thanksgiving). WNF products fall into the category of too good to be true. They don't do what you expect them to do. They are poor at feeding and poor at weeding. So you need separate products applied at the right time for each one. More specifically you need a spray type herbicide with atrazine. These usually have a purple splash on the label, but read the label to make sure. Atrazine will not kill the centipede like other herbicides do. And atrazine will kill just about everything except centipede and St Augustine, so it's the bomb for those two grasses. Use it to spot treat the weeds. You only need to moisten the leaves of the weeds. Read the label 2 or 3 times to be sure you understand how to apply. Atrazine is not something you want the pets or kids playing in. And more specifically on the fertilizer: centipede is one of the grass types that uses very little fertilizer. They used to day you could drag an empty bag of fertilizer over the grass every other year and that would be enough. I don't have any experience with centipede, but I do understand minimal fertilizer. Fall is the best time to apply before the grass cools off. If it ever stops growing then that is the time to apply. Otherwise centipede is nearly zero maintenance. If you have trees that are maturing in the yard, the centipede will not be happy under those. It will thin out and leave bare spots for weeds to come in. For those spots you could either convert them into flower beds or plant St Augustine, which does love the shade.
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DO NOT OVERSEED. Why? Because, depending on what kind of grass you have, now is a very poor time of year to seed, or, there is no seed available for your turf. I'm looking at the label for a Scotts Southern Weed and Feed. The label is purple. Is that what you used? That product is ONLY for St Augustine and centipede lawns. If you have a bermuda lawn, then it's going to get worse before it gets better. And the damage is done, so you'll have to live with it this season. But if you have a St Augustine lawn, then the damage should repair itself in the next month or so. It also takes about 3 weeks before you see full weed control with this product (and with most herbicides). Now was not the best time to either use a herbicide or to fertilize. Those are two different things, and to think that one product can do both, equally well, at the same time, is a mistake. The time to kill weeds is in mid April. That is the time when all the weeds are up and growing. By using a post emergent weed killer now, you are likely missing the weeds that are just about to sprout. The time to fertilize is in late May. That is the time the normal fast spring growth is waning. By fertilizing now you force the grass to use up its stored nutrients faster so that by early May, the grass looks worn out. Let us know what kind of grass you have and we can help you plan out the future.
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dchall_san_antonio
14 years ago
Way to go lamcon. The Weed Hound is a GREAT tool! I wish I had stock in that company.

I used to do everything wrong, too. Then I started reading here and, after a few hundred posts of people having success with this or that technique, I came to realize that the cultural practices of "proper" watering and mowing are really the main part of turf care. I just never knew what "proper" was. I thought I knew from reading all the books and magazines but they were mostly wrong and/or confusing. It is as simple as 1-2-3. Here is the 1-2-3 of lawn care that I have learned here.
2. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds.
1. Mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above.
1. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. I fertilize on the federal holidays because they are easy to remember. Using chemical fertilizers in the north you can fertilize on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. Since I use organic and I live in the south, I start on Washington's Birthday and also fertilize on the 4th of July. But don't ever apply chemical ferts in the heat of summer...only organic.

Should I use Scotts 'Weed and Feed' or '#2' ?

Comments (3)

dchall_san_antonio

lamcon

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