Many of the things have been covered so I'll try to avoid duplicates. But another caution: $20 will buy jumper cables good for Texas or Arizona, but not for Minnesota or North Dakota. You'll spend 2-3 times that for a decent set worthy of carrying around here. Check the gauge of the wire and the clamps. Buy from a reputable place, not a discount department store, if you want a good set. Another caution is a cell phone is a good idea but will do you no good without power. Always buy a car adapter and keep it in the vehicle. "Emergency" cell phones, won't be maintained so they won't be charged. Without a charger you stand no chance of using it. Also, be sure to check coverage. Why get one that won't have coverage when you need it? Also, if you need to repair a hose, don't go for the duct tape right away. Electrical tape will seal the hole better. Duct tape won't. Wrap it well with electrical tape and *then* give a wrap of the silver miracle. The grey gold will keep the electrical tape in place better and seal itself better. I always used a coffee can and put a roll of toilet paper in a plastic bag, double bagged, actually. Also had some matches and some large heavy duty garbage bags. A garbage bag will be a one-size-fits-most for a rain poncho, and have numerous other uses. People who use eyeglasses should keep an extra pair in the vehicle, especially if your license requires you to wear them while driving. I always keep water in the vehicle. Sure it freezes in the winter but the small bottles thaw quickly. I also keep aspirin, antacids and the like so I don't have to buy them at outrageous prices if needed. I just take a small bottle and keep a few in there. A roll of paper towels cut in half fits nicely in a coffee can and gives you an alternative to the toilet paper and gives you some ready napkins and something to use to clean up those accidents. Put the garbage bags in there and I like a few wet wipes. Tow chain or a tow strap. Takes little room. Oh, I use the crank flashlights. No need to worry about batteries. I usually like to carry a gallon of window wash fluid (de-icer in the winter) and a gallon of antifreeze. If you break a hose you can get the radiator filled. Dump in the antifreeze and it can get you going to a place to add some water. Or if your near a water source, even a lake, stream or ditch, you have a container for the water. Clothes appropriate for the climate. And a comealong winch is a good idea too. Can extend the reach of the tow strap and you can winch yourself out of a bad spot. And I believe in keeping some cash, including change, in the vehicle. Pay phones used to be a big reason but that's more obsolete now but if you have to buy some gas, or bandages or something, you might find a few dollars handy. Nobody's saying you should carry everything everyone has suggested. Very few people would find a gas wrench useful - most wouldn't know how to use it. So you use it for ideas. Modify it. There is no all-inclusive list that will work for everyone. Some things you would take on a trip but not leave in there all the time. Some things should be in there. Minnesota requires you to carry proof of insurance. I keep one card in my wallet and one in the vehicle. Belt and suspenders I suppose. I still haven't gotten around to stocking my "new" vehicle yet. But probably have most of it in there. When the weather gets nicer I'll clean it out and check inventory against my checklist.

I keep a cooler in both of my cars. If I go to Pierre which is 40 miles away I uusally need it. When we go to Bismarck which is 3 hours away I for sure need it. I like to shop in ND because there is no sales tax on grocery and there is more competition because there is more grocery stores to choose from. In Pierre all we have is WM and a Super Valu. We have a grocery store 9 miles over but I don't go in there very ofter because the prices are high beins it is a town of 700

I wish I could say, but I am the opposite of you and can't smell very well at all. If a skunk is prowling about outdoors, everyone else can detect the odor before I can. Therefore I'm probably not the best person to answer your question. Hopefully others will be more of a help.

Consult your owner's manual. It'll state a recommendation for the engine or engines when the car may be equipped with alternate engines. The grade of fuel needed is related to compression ratio and super/turbo charging. High compression engines need treated fuels to prevent self detonation. A lower compression engine with super charging also needs help for the same reason. At sea level, self ignition begins at compression of 14 to 1, the fuel will self ignite without a spark because at that compression, the compressed air rises above the ignition temperature and the entire charge goes BANG instead of a smooth spreading flame front. As you go up in altitude, the air thins out, there less of it to cram into the cylinder and the self detonation potential decreases. Typical pinging happens when during the first instant of ignition the cylinder pressure rises and the remainder of the charge explodes all at once instead of a smooth spreading flame front. An engine at sea level needs more anti-knock help than one at 10,000 ft altitude. However, a really active supercharger changes the picture. The compression ratio may increase if deposits accumulate within the head. Also, deposits can get hot and continue to glow enough to cause ignition. Catalytic converters oxidizes unburned fuel and tries to complete the combustion of CO (carbon monoxide) to CO2 (Carbon dioxide). Converters fail by overheating or reduced operation. Overheating is caused by too much unburned fuel dumped in to the converter or sitting still for long periods of time with the engine above idle. The usual death of a converter is from contamination of the catalyst rendering it ineffective. Also, the converter can become clogged with deposits. Its passages are small compared to other components of the exhaust system. Never pour any additive into the gas tank unless it specifically states it is safe for the catalytic converter. Some are not. A number of converters were killed back when filling stations were switching from leaded gasoline to unleaded. (From before WW2, a lead compound had been used for anti-knock, but lead is one of the things that will coat a catalytic surface and render it useless. Once this happens in an automotive converter, its begins to plug up.) During the change over in fuels, due diligence was not always applied or understood and the fresh fuel was contaminated with the older fuel that remained in the partially emptied tanks. Mix-ups continued either accidentally or by intent until leaded fuel was completely phased out.