OK. 3 acres isn't so bad. 720 pounds is the maximum you would want to overseed with. You may be able to price shop some. So it sounds to me like you have lost a lot of grass this year to (1) drought and (2) disease. It get's disease because when it get's really hot, the plant gets weak and consequently susceptible to disease. From what I've heard and read, K31 doesn't do well with drought or disease while some of the newer cultivars do much better. One important thing to not is that I said "better" - the newer cultivars are by no means immune to disease and drought. Brown patch, a very common fescue disease, typically won't kill the plant itself, if the conditions subside soon enough, but when combined with drought, the plant will likely die. On the other hand, I've been amazed at how well a yard, that had severe brown patch, pulled through the next spring. Here's my TTTF lawn if it encourages you at all. Lighting in the picture is really bad, BTW. Just so you know, I did spray Disarm once early August, and I water it by hand, although it hasn't been watered for about a month by hand (only rain). I have more if it might convince you a little more. ;-)

K31 tall fescue was basically the only TF in use for lawns until about 1980, when improved TF cultivars were released to the market. Rebel and Falcon were among the first ones on the market, but there were others. I don't know much about fine fescue history and usage, but generally they aren't used in the transition zone for full lawns.

Easter basket is the look you should have. Great job! I would blow the leaves off until the grass is 4 to 5 inches tall. When it is that tall, the roots are going to be deep enough that mowing an inch off the tops will not harm anything down below. Walking on new grass should not be a problem if the seed was rolled down properly. If the seed was not rolled down, then walking on it will push foot prints down in the soil. What farmers find is that grass grows better where it was walked on by cattle. That's why we roll new seed. Walking on it does the same thing as rolling. Depending on where you live, the grass may not get tall enough this season to mow one time. Mark the date you seeded on your calendar and next year, if you need to seed again, do it a month earlier. Bag your leaves for easy transport but keep them to start a compost pile.

Why are you only planting tall fescue? I don't have a good feel for growing grass in your area/zone but am thinking you may be able to grow Kentucky Bluegrass or a combination of both. Here we use a mix of mostly perennial ryegrass with some Kentucky Blue grass and fescue. There's a mix called Penn State mix that's popular here with those who don't want the weeds and inappropriate grasses in the big box mixes. From what I remember if you have too much fescue and/or bluegrass in the mix you tend to get Red Dust and Red Thread which are fungus issues ( I think ). But that's here and you're there. Perennial rye grass sprouts in a week, while the blue grass and fescues take about 3 weeks. It's getting late. If I were doing the job I'd aerate the whole lawn and spread my seed and then cover it with a thin (inch) of mushroom compost purchased in bulk. Keep it damp. Some use peat; but mushroom compost won't float away on water like peat. If you're looking for a dealer in grass seed search for a Pennington dealer. My dealer here sells the Penn State mix and several blue grass mixes and several fescues from them. You can scoop seed into a plastic bag out of a hopper and put it on the scale. They also sell in 50 pound bags. There may be a mix more appropriate for your area. You could perhaps borrow a pull behind aerator or rent a self propelled. There's a professional model that pushes 8-10" rods into the ground. It's built to use on fine lawns so won't disturb the lay of the land, however any aerator is going to lift the whole lawn, Good luck