Any self lawn care websites for guidance?
jvan
15 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (17)
iforgotitsonevermind
15 years agobpgreen
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Spring care for new and really bad lawn
Comments (2)1. Get a Weed Hound tool at any of the box stores. That tool will pull a bunch of tap rooted weeds as fast as you can step on them. 2. Reset your mower for the highest setting and take off the bag. Most weed seedlings cannot penetrate the shade provided by tall grass. Even established dandelions can disappear when the grass grows up tall around them (it pushes up their big broad leaves and they don't get enough sun). By recycling the cut grass to your yard, you recycle a lot of nitrogen. 3. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means for an hour or so each time. The normal recommendation is to water an inch per week. That depends on your soil but 1 inch per week is a great starting point. Infrequently means you only water once a week during the hottest part of summer. Now you should be watering more like monthly or every few weeks. This gives the soil surface a chance to completely dry out. Weed seeds need nearly continual moisture to sprout. By breaking the water cycle the soil surface and weed seeds dry out. 3. Fertilize with your favorite fertilizer regularly. If you need to spray weeds (and you may not after doing 2 and 1 above), use a spray on product like Weed-B-Gone to spot-spray each weed rather than spreading the granules. See if you can pawn off the weed-n-feed you already bought. Those products do not work like you think they do. They appeal to our desire for all-in-one solutions to multiple problems, but in this case it really doesn't work. Here's why. Weeds need to be growing and healthy to absorb the herbicide in the wnf products. The herbicide goes to work quickly but if the weeds were not already fertilized, they don't absorb the herbicide. The fertilizer may or may not go to work quickly but it doesn't go to work fast enough to affect the weeds before they herbicide dissipates. So basically the timing of the product is all mixed up. Since you already have the stuff, and you probably don't hate anyone enough to give it to them, you can make the best of the situation by fertilizing your yard with a cheap organic material 3 weeks prior to using the wnf. That will give your weeds (if you still have any) the nutrition/health they need to really absorb the herbicide when it hits the soil. You don't have to worry about any organic/synthetic interactions or over fertilizing. The two materials work on different principles. You won't technically "need" the fert from the wnf but it should not hurt anything. The organic fertilizer I would suggest would be ordinary corn meal. The application rate is 10-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. A free alternative is to apply used Starbucks coffee grounds (they give them to you in huge bags). The theoretical application rate is the same except the coffee grounds will be wet. For wet coffee grounds use 20-40 pounds per 1,000 square feet....See MoreLawn Boy (10302 model, 21) Self Propel
Comments (4)You can get it from places like SEPW, about $15 plus shipping. http://www.sepw.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=95-5590&Exact=True Here is a link that might be useful: SEPW...See MoreLawn Guidance
Comments (6)Here is your picture It really makes a difference where you live. Based on the subtle hints in your message I'm guessing you live in the San Diego area. If not please let us know so we can provide better suggestions. Jan 2011 we had some big rain that flooded my backyard several times and my garage so last May I had drains, irrigation and new sod installed. You have a drainage problem. When you say you had drains installed, do you mean you had the yard regraded using a tractor and a box blade? Because that is what you need. Sometimes when you have other landscaping in the way, drains are the only solution. The best solution is regrading. The lawn looked great and took well to the ground. I had a leaf hopper infestation but left it alone since eveyrthing I read said they dont do any harm. You'll see a lot of bugs that are not a problem. Try not to jump to conclusions with every insect you see. After about a two months some of the grass started to brown a bit so I gave it more water in the areas since it is a slight picth in that part of my yard. Around August the brown started to spread and take over a large portion of the yard but not completely kill the grass. Water didnt fix it, so I backed that off to normal again ... 1 inch/week. In October, I noticed the dead grass was pulling out very easily and the ground is damp. So I backed off the water in case it was overwatered. No change. Your responses to the situation were perfect. I think your instincts are good, but you can go a little further in backing off on watering. Being a noobie yard owner (first house) I did not fertilize since the yard was installed. So about 4 weeks ago I gave the lawn Scotts Winterguard fertilizer and the green grass perked up a bit but I still have an abundance of brown. Good instincts again, or just lucky. Sod is usually well fertilized when you receive it, so it did not need any more until the fall. Had you fertilized in the summer you would have only added more stress to the heat stress already. In the future, 2/3 to 3/4 of your nitrogen should go down in the fall. The rest goes down in late spring after the flush of spring growth. Upon close inspection, I found several blades that have either black streaks or yellow streaks on them. I took samples to a local nursery and they said it might be a fungus but to also consider grubs. They also recommend removing the dead thatch. "Might be a fungus but also consider grubs." They're nuts because the picture is of grass carrying several diseases. Grubs kill the roots of the plant and the plant withers away from lack of moisture. You can have both grubs and disease, but that's not what you have in the photo. Also, fescue very seldom gets thatchy and should not happen in a year. Raking did no harm, so that's fine. 1. Hard soil is your concern but it is not your problem. Hard soil is normal when the soil is dry at the surface. Lack of organic matter in the soil is the problem that leads to hard soil all the time. Soil with a good fungal population will become soft when moist and turn hard when it dries out. It should act like a sponge. If it remains hard even when moist, then you have the indication of not enough fungal population. 2. People who seed fescue to begin with should understand that it needs to be seeded every fall until you get to the density you want it to be. Sod should already be at a proper density. Still you need to watch it to see if you need to reseed in the fall. In your case, yes, you need to because it has thinned out. Now is the time but new grass will get the disease immediately unless you do something about that. Use the same seed. 3. If you top dress with anything, it should be compost. Compost is the most expensive thing you can add to your lawn but your situation may warrant using it. Disease is caused by an imbalance of microbes. Compost provides a balanced source of microbes to the soil. If you want them to remain in balance and thrive, then you must feed them with organic fertilizer. Synthetic fertilizers do not have microbe food. The reason for compost and not soil is that adding more soil to an improperly drained yard will worsen the drainage situation. Compost completely disappears and does not change the level of the soil. If you want more help with organic approach and fertilizers, find the Organic Lawn Care FAQ in the Organic Gardening Forum of Gardenweb. 4. Yes it is possible to have both grubs and fungus. Rather than aerating to soften the soil, I would suggest spraying the soil with a cheap shampoo. I like generic baby shampoo from Wally's. Spray at about 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet and follow it up with your normal inch of watering to wash the soap in deep. Then the third time you water after that, repeat with the soap before you water. By the second or third app of soap, your soil should be much softer when moist and it should become firm again as it dries out between watering. I have tried several long term solutions to hard soil, and this one works the quickest. It is a long time solution. Aeration makes you feel good but is not as simple as it seems. If you aerate (hard work and relatively expensive) you should follow up with a drenching irrigation where you try to fill the holes you just created. Ultimately proper amounts and timing of water is the key to solving the problem. You need to repopulate the fungi in your soil. They need even moisture over a period of a week or so to get going. Soap seems to help provide that. I suspect you are keeping the soil too moist and that led to the disease. This time of year you should be watering once every 30-40 days, not once a week. In fact if you are in SoCal, you probably get enough rain every month in the winter, that you do not need to irrigate. As the soil dries out from a previous irrigation or rain, expect it to become hard. If it remains hard after the rain, then hit it with the shampoo again....See More$/ft. for cabs: any guidance?
Comments (25)For running feet I added together all the uppers, all the lowers, the pantry wall,and the island - sizes of the cabinets, top and bottom. If the fridge has cabinets above it, you add 36" or whatever for the top - no bottom necessary, obviously. The island - calculate the length - usually cabinets are only on one side and there is just a fascia on the other side. I didn't bother with that. Amy - they are in Bergen County....See Morejvan
15 years agoiforgotitsonevermind
15 years agobpgreen
15 years agookcdan
15 years agoskizot
15 years agookcdan
15 years agoiforgotitsonevermind
15 years agodchall_san_antonio
7 years agoUser
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agodchall_san_antonio
7 years agoUser
7 years agodchall_san_antonio
7 years agoUser
7 years agodchall_san_antonio
7 years ago
Related Stories
WORKING WITH PROSWorking With Pros: When You Just Need a Little Design Guidance
Save money with a design consultation for the big picture or specific details
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNExuberant Self-Seeders for Gorgeous, Easy-Care Gardens
Keep weeds down, color high and maintenance low with beautful plants that sow themselves
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Keep Your Trees Healthy
Ensure your trees’ vigor for years to come with these tips for protecting roots, watering effectively and more
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNKoi Find Friendly Shores in Any Garden Style
A pond full of colorful koi can be a delightful addition to just about any landscape or garden
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDES9 Self-Seeders Capture Chelsea Flower Show Magic
Give your garden show-worthy style with these plants beloved by top designers
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSHouzz Tour: A Self-Sufficient Farmhouse With a Sheep-Pasture Roof
LEED Platinum certification and a soil-covered top make this pastoral Virginia home green in more ways than one
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGN7 Low-Maintenance Lawn Alternatives
Turf isn't the only ground cover in town. Get a lush no-grass lawn with clover, moss and other easy-care plants
Full StoryMOST POPULARMeet a Lawn Alternative That Works Wonders
Carex can replace turfgrass in any spot, is low maintenance and adjusts easily. Add its good looks and you’ve got a ground cover winner
Full StoryGREEN BUILDINGThe Passive House: What It Is and Why You Should Care
If you don’t understand passive design, you could be throwing money out the window
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESTree Care: Common Tree Diseases and What to Do About Them
Learn to recognize trees that may be affected by diseases or pests so you can quickly take action
Full StoryCustom Craftsmanship & Construction Solutions in Franklin County
Heritage Lawns & Irrigation