I've had mine go completely bone dry before finally beginning to wilt. This wasn't intentional, I only mention it to point out that the wilting isn't from underwatering. Peace lilies love water, but their roots also love fresh air, so drainage is a must. I would also advise giving it much brighter indirect sunlight. Just because some plants can tolerate low light levels, it doesn't mean that they prefer it that way. Never seek advice from a big box employee. For most of them, it's just a job; they're paid to be there. They don't care about providing accurate advice. You're better off seeking out someone shopping there that actually wants to be there. More often than not, that's where you'll find me, HaHa. I've certainly helped other shoppers whenever they needed it.

HU+digits - watering correctly isn't subjective in the sense that it pivots on the whim of the grower. IOW, given plant A, there is only 1 best way to water plant A, and no one can suggest an appropriate watering interval because that factor is in constant flux due to the fact that how much water the plant uses and weather's impact on evapotranspiration (water use by the plant + evaporation). How much to water: Ideally, a grower should be able to water to beyond the point of complete saturation of the grow medium, completely wetting the soil column, with at least 20% of the total volume of water applied exiting the drain hole, carrying any accumulating dissolved solids out of the pot in the waste water. If a grow medium won't support that type of watering without the plant having to pay a tax on root function/health due to prolonged periods of soil saturation, the grow medium is inappropriate. If watering intervals are much more than 3-5 days, it's a good bet (read a near certainty) the extended interval between waterings means varying degrees of potential are left lying on the table. It's very expensive in terms of energy outlay when saturated soil and the grower's watering habits come together to set up the cyclic death and regeneration of roots. Root growth always precedes top growth, so when saturated soil kills the heavy lifters (fine roots), t he top cannot grow until roots have regenerated enough mass to support additional top growth. Watering in small sips brings its own issues, namely, it ensures that all dissolved solids (salts) in tapwater and fertilizer solutions remain in the grow medium where they can A) accumulate to the point water uptake by the plant becomes impossible, or B) the ratio of nutrients in the soil solution becomes so skewed that an excess of nutrient X limits the plant's ability to take up nutrient Y - see "antagonistic deficiency". Watering is an art. When a bonsai master takes on an apprentice, the first thing he is taught is how/ when to water. Once (s)he understands that critical aspect of plant care, only then is the apprentice allowed to start venturing into other areas of plant care. Finally, if you're talking about me 'browbeating' Te, now that is subjective. I made a judgement call based on what I was reading in this thread and decided I would simply be straightforward and lay out the fact that (s)he is overlooking the remedy. My intent certainly was not to browbeat anyone. In order to come to that conclusion, you must overlook the several sincere and helpful posts, all dedicated to providing resolution to the issue Te is trying to deal with. I think Te fully understands I have his/ his plant's best interests at heart, and I think I was correct in my belief all that was needed was a little nudge. Al

In terms of growth and vitality, and absent any seriously limiting conditions, your plant will perform many times better outdoors than indoors. It would most like a spot in dappled shade, followed by open shade, followed by full shade. A spot where it gets a little early morning or evening evening sun works too, but no harsh direct sun. Air movement and the complete light spectrum are the primary drivers of better growth and health, and appearance should be close on the heels of better growth/ health. Root congestion exacts a tax on growth and health, so don't forget to divide your plant regularly - every year or every other year would be best (from the plant's perspective). The plant is no shrinking violet, you can even use a hatchet or ax to do the dividing. It prefers a fast draining medium and should be fertilized regularly. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 would be an excellent fertilizer for any houseplant you're likely to grow, other than perhaps hibiscus. It provides you with complete control over all nutrients essential to normal growth, in a favorable ratio, from a single source/ container. Al

"..... this plant came to me as a gift and i have no idea what kind if soil it is growing in. The organic fraction of grow media consists of millions of hydrocarbon chains. As the soil particles break down, some nutrients become soluble/ available in the soil solution from which the plant absorbs them. The carbon in the hydrocarbon chains gasses off in the form of CO2. This is why it seems like all of the grow medium has simply disappeared. I will have to buy new potting soil and new pots. What do you recommend i use?" I always recommend that growers use a grow medium (s)he can water at will w/o needing to worry about the grow medium remaining saturated for extended periods, limiting root function and killing fine roots due to an inadequate oxygen supply. Unfortunately, that suggestion eliminates at least 3/4 of the commercially prepared products we find loosely gathered under the umbrella of "potting soils/ media". Since the size of the particles that make up a medium are the primary driver of water retention, in order to take advantage of the superior texture of soils with a high level of air porosity and sharp drainage, the medium will necessarily have a very large % of coarse particles >1/10". I'm not suggesting you can't grow healthy plants in a medium based on all fine particles, but it will be more difficult and the margin for grower error diminishes inversely with the volume of excess water in a soil and the length of time the excess water hangs around. If we want to take advantage of highly aerated media with sharp drainage, it's best to build/ buy a medium that does that passively. If that's not in the cards, there are always the tricks I mentioned upthread that will help to limit the amount of excess water a planting is capable of holding. These are the 2 basic media I use for everything I grow. Both are very forgiving and easy to grow in. Al