Lorain county? I thought that was zone 5. In any case, you can renovate all you want, but if you had a poa problem there in the past, there are likely a gazillion seeds in the soil that are ready to germinate. And not necessarily the following fall--they can lie in wait for a few years. You really need fall through spring pre-emergent coverage for several years. There is a post-emergent control for poa annua. It's Prograss (ethofumesate). However, it's no complete solution in one season. Also, it can damage some cultivars of all cool season grasses--Bayer has a short list of safe ones and an even shorter list of cultivars NOT to apply Prograss on. Depending on how my poa problem progresses, I may try Prograss this fall.

I put down liquid Dim, never gran, in sept time frame and it WILL help with POA. It is not as good as prograss but it is cheaper per gallon and does more control. Both product here have there pros/cons. The Nov treatment of Dim is a 50/50 here might be okay and might be a waste of time and money. I have found that dim does not have a 3 months window nor effective on many braodleaves. It it slightly less and doing one app is not the best. But doing 2 full apps in the fall and 2 full apps in the spring is illegal. It is over the limit of the AI. Read the 2.5 gallon jug or the bag. Then throwing on Dim in Auguest could/can burn the grass up in the northeast east since it base is pretro (oil). That is why many wait for cooler weight here. Plus if using gran you are adding more then most times, needed.

So I really need to remove the eggs and old nest? You do not think that the eggs were fertile? What if I left a small amount of the straw in the box from the old nest would that be ok? I sure hate to take the eggs out, but if you guys think that this is whats best I will. One more stupid question. What would happen to these eggs if they were left in the house? Like I said I have never been through this before. You guys are going to have to help me get through this. Its funny, you can become attached to eggs like they were your own babies.

I'm no help with the poa issue. As far south as I am it is not much of an issue. I see it in the lawn, but only for a few weeks (long enough to go to seed, though). Overseeding KBG? Why? Especially when it's as dense as yours seems to be? I think you're watering too frequently...unless your temps are running over 110 degrees F. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. There's a very small chance you have clay. Are there brick factories nearby? If not you probably don't have clay. It is much more likely you have a soil with an imbalance of salts like calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium. That can be corrected once you have a good soil test (Logan Labs $25 is the test you need). You can see for yourself whether you have clay by doing a jar test. Find a clear container, fill it half way with soil, fill it the rest of the way with water and a few drops of soap. Measure up the side with a ruler and take a picture to see how many inches of soil you have. Then screw the top on the jar and shake it like crazy. Set the jar down with the ruler next to it. At 2 minutes take another picture. At 2 hours take another picture. At 2 days take another picture. The material that has settled after 2 minutes is sand and gravel. After 2 hours you'll get the loam. At that point if you can see through the water on top so that you could read something held on the other side of the jar, then you have zero clay. Everything that will settle will settle by 2 days. Suspended clay particles will still cloud the water after 2 days. Then you can use the measurements of settled material in your pictures to determine the proportional content of your soil (sand versus loam versus clay). Zones are only used to select plants for winter hardiness. Once you pick a plant, then the zone is meaningless for care. For example I think Oregon has most of the zones except 9 and 10. But I would not think to grow bermuda there.