Hello. My name is Dan and I live in 5A (south 5A, actually... WAY south 5A... blocks from 5B as a matter of fact). My lawn came with the house, was laid in 9/2012 as sod and I was told is KBG (no variety specified) and rye. I believe it was sourced from MO, if the name on the delivery truck can be trusted. The "soil" on my lot is like many new Iowa subdivisions... all the good Iowa black topsoil is stripped and sold, leaving clay. Over the last 2 years, we have been applying compost (sourced locally from our metro waste authority) to try to get some usable organic matter in the soil, and it seems to be having the desired effect as far as how the soil is starting to look (darker brown). Up until this year, the feeding has been done with chemicals. This year, I started a hybrid program (chemical pre-emergent and organic feeding). The lawn is irrigated, waters every 5 days and gets the equivalent of 1"/week (3" over 20 days). Since I have clay, I thought it best to cycle the irrigation through twice (i.e. it runs through all zones once, then immediately starts through all zones again, with about 2 hours between each watering). I have little shade from trees (too small yet), so the only shade the lawn gets is from the house starting about noon. The house faces West, so the front gets A LOT of hot sun on summer afternoons. I seem to have more dead blades of grass than I'd like in the Spring, but I think I understand that issue and can correct it. I don't over seed, but from reading, now understand that it is probably somewhat important (even in KBG lawns). Hopefully, this answers any questions that may pop up from my question below.
I think I have the answer to this, but I've attached some pictures of a weed grass that seems to have really taken off in my lawn this Spring (I've attached many pics as some seem to like up close and others like to see the problem in the context of the whole lawn). I think it is Poa Annua. From this sight, I've learned that fighting Poa Annua is a hard fight that will take MANY years. I think what I have gotten from GW is that the best way to fight large infestations is with a pre M in the Spring AND Fall. Knowing that I need to start over seeding, does this mean that over seeding cannot happen until the Poa Annua is under control enough to skip a Fall pre M application? On this question, will the Scotts start w/Halts control the Poa Annua or will it allow it to germinate? Any other tips besides the pre M for controlling Poa Annua?
Any other guidance is also greatly appreciated!
Poa Annua questions
Germination tempertures for poa annua
Poa Annua Germination
morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)