The rule of thumb ever since I first came to GW has been 1 cubic yard per 1,000 square feet MAXIMUM. If you core aerate heavily first then you might be able to double that amount and not do any harm. If you do it correctly you will only barely notice that there is compost in the grass.

Put it out in piles in the yard with a wheelbarrow and shovel. Then use a push broom or leaf blower to distribute it down into the grass. There should be no grass blades underneath the compost when you are finished.

Every year someone in my neighborhood smothers their lawn. Once it is smothered it takes a full year to come back.

ncguy Top-dressing with compost would be very good for your lawn. That being said, realize that compost, even when purchased in bulk is pretty expensive. And as indicated above is very labor intensive spreading it on your lawn. You didnÂt state why you wanted to top-dress with compost. If want to increase the organic matter in your lawnÂs soil, then there are cheaper and easier ways to do that. Mulch mow all you Autumn leaves into your grass. If you donÂt have enough leaves, then collect some from your neighborhood. Mulch your clippings if you are not already doing so. Fertilize your lawn with feeds and grains (soybean meal, alfalfa, corn, etc.) If your intent was to increase the microbe population, then compost tea would be a much easier and cheaper way of doing that. Then of course, you would have to keep the microbes fed. Again the organic meals and grains. If you do decide to go with compost, then it would be best to used screened compost for your lawn. Bill Hill

When I moved into this house 9 years ago, I put out compost. Nothing has had a bigger impact. If it hasn't been done to your yard recently, I highly recommend it.

After that, I think the other advice on the thread is great.

But, be warned. Its not cheap, and its a lot of work.

I have always heard one cubic yard of compost for every 800 to 1000 square feet of lawn.

As DChall notes, you can get too much of a good thing.

After you put it out once, Bill Hill's advice on easier ways (compost tea, etc) will start sounding good.

Good luck.

Use the calculator at the link below to figure out your amount of compost based on desired depth and length/width.

Here is a link that might be useful: Concrete/compost/mulch calc

I guess I am lucky. Compost is free here in Lincoln, Nebraska if you are willing to load it through a city landfill compost program that makes excellent compost from city yard waste, ten bucks to fill a pickup for you with a loader-- but they will only put in a yard, my truck will hold two yards. The stuff is even chemically analyzed for nutrients and contaminants prior to release by the local university. Initially I had them load if for me, until I realized how light this stuff is.... you back your truck up to their mountain of compost, then basically just pull it down into the truck bed--- 15 minutes and full, even with weakened arms from MS.

I went from a heavy clay in my garden to the richest soil I have ever had, with zero additional fertilizer. All the veggies are giants. Last year I tested it on my lawn in a small area, it looked messy and black for a weak or so until the first rain, then was awesome. This spring, multiple loads from the dump to hit the entire yard in early spring before the big rains.

Folks talk about the difficulty of spreading, but at least for me, a piece of cake. Open the pickup bed with a full load, then drive a big pattern over the yard(when soil dry so doesn't make tracks). Spread some, then drive forward 10 or 15 feet, then do it again. Afterward, get out the mower or garden tractor with the blade set quite low. Any little piles that were too heavily hit are easily spread by the mower blade.

Now I am just monitoring to make sure I don't use too much, especially in my garden where high nitrates might cut my tomato production. So far the only problem I have had from very heavy doses seems to be that the compost will crust over and dry out a little faster if it is too thick.