Despite what I'm being told I am pretty much giving up hope that all these seed heads are coming from my turfgrass. I've been researching poa annua a little bit more and images I see online look very much like what I have going on in my lawn. Here are a few more pictures of my lawn... Opinions? If it is poa annua (I'm convinced that it is), I can't for the life of me figure out why this is happening. My lawn was started from seed in September 2013. I didn't have any poa annua problems in 2014 (nor any of these seed heads). I mow high and I water infrequently. And the kicker is I see nothing like this in any of my neighbors lawns, none of whom take lawncare seriously...so why would it take hold in my thick, high lawn but not in theirs? Was it mixed into the seed the landscaper used but didn't take hold until now? I overseeded last Sept but I know it wasn't in that seed because I had a few bare spots I fixed and those spots are free of these seed heads. And what do I do about it? Kill everything and restart? Keep spraying Tenacity in hopes I beat it? Or, since it's an annual, will it all die this summer, then use preemergents more aggressively?

What day did you seed and what type of seed? Use Tenacity as a PreM per instructions if you seeded a few days ago. You can also use as PostM on the Poa but it might need a few applications to weaken it before summer. What city are you in?

I'm no help with the poa issue. As far south as I am it is not much of an issue. I see it in the lawn, but only for a few weeks (long enough to go to seed, though). Overseeding KBG? Why? Especially when it's as dense as yours seems to be? I think you're watering too frequently...unless your temps are running over 110 degrees F. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. There's a very small chance you have clay. Are there brick factories nearby? If not you probably don't have clay. It is much more likely you have a soil with an imbalance of salts like calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium. That can be corrected once you have a good soil test (Logan Labs $25 is the test you need). You can see for yourself whether you have clay by doing a jar test. Find a clear container, fill it half way with soil, fill it the rest of the way with water and a few drops of soap. Measure up the side with a ruler and take a picture to see how many inches of soil you have. Then screw the top on the jar and shake it like crazy. Set the jar down with the ruler next to it. At 2 minutes take another picture. At 2 hours take another picture. At 2 days take another picture. The material that has settled after 2 minutes is sand and gravel. After 2 hours you'll get the loam. At that point if you can see through the water on top so that you could read something held on the other side of the jar, then you have zero clay. Everything that will settle will settle by 2 days. Suspended clay particles will still cloud the water after 2 days. Then you can use the measurements of settled material in your pictures to determine the proportional content of your soil (sand versus loam versus clay). Zones are only used to select plants for winter hardiness. Once you pick a plant, then the zone is meaningless for care. For example I think Oregon has most of the zones except 9 and 10. But I would not think to grow bermuda there.

This was a chart before: Sorry it did not transmit correctly. Go to Nebraska site.