You might get more responses if you post in the Organic Lawncare Forum You can buy organic fertilizer, but a lot of organic lawns are fertilized with what would normally be considered animal feed, such as cracked corn, soybean meal, alfalfa, etc. I used to get coffee grounds from Starbucks and spread them (now I have native grasses and don't fertilize at all). I don't know anything about grubs, so I can't help there. The only organic pre-emergent that I know of is CGM. I've read mixed reviews of its effectiveness. From everything I've read, you need to make sure you use it correctly. I think it has to be watered in well and then it requires a dry spell because it works by drying the newly germinated grass before it can develop roots. If it rains at the wrong time, it won't work. Also, I've read that it takes a number of years for its effectiveness to start showing. You may get better results just through cultural practices. Mow at about 4 inches (or at the highest setting if the mower won't go that high). Water deeply and infrequently (shallow frequent water helps seeds germinate). Apply fertilizer in the spring and fall, with most of it in the fall. If you can get a dense grass cover, the crabgrass won't stand a chance.

Bermuda and Centipede are incompatible with each other because they have huge differences in fertilizer soil, and water requirements. Centipede needs terrible acidic soil where nothing else will grow, only needs an empty bag of fertilizer dragged around the yard once every spring, and watered every other day. Bermuda on the other hand is a fertilizer hog needing 1-pound of nitrogen applied every month, will grow in just about every soil type except highly acidic, and only needs minimum water. So if you do have a mix of both Bermuda and Centipede tells me you have way very nutrient depleted soil. Because if you had good nutrients the Centipede would be dead and taken over by the Bermuda Here is my thought. If you want Bermuda, all you have to do is make the conditions favorable for the Bermuda you already have. You can certainly start right now by adding organic materials right now. But since you have Centipede the first thing I would want to know is the soil PH. If it is 6.0 or less you need to address that problem right away with lime to get it above 6.0 toward 7.0 So here are the steps:  Soli test, check PH immediately, and add lime if necessary, also note phosphorous and potassium requirements.  Add a layer of compost as this will aid organic material content. The soil test will tell what the organic content is now. Anything above 3% is good as Bermuda is not real picky.  I donÂt suggest using organic fertilizers in the form of the grains trying to revitalize a lawn in nutrient depleted soil. They take too long to get cooking and could take a year or two to get results. Instead bridge the gap with an synthetic organic fertilizer using a slow release urea fertilizer. Right now you want to put down a 20-5-10 slow release urea fertilizer at a rate of 5 pounds of product per 1000/ft2. Then after 30 days apply straight slow release urea nitrogen of 39-0-0 at a rate of 3-pounds of product per 1000/ft2. Then keep applying 39-0-0 every 30 days till mid October then stop until next spring when you start the process all over again with 20-5-10. If you want to go the organic route with fertilizer, I do suggest using Soybean meal as it contains the highest protein content and is the most economic. What you can do is wait until about July after the Bermuda has reestablished itself and transition to organic slowly the way to do this go ahead and apply the 39-0-0 at a reduced rate that goes something like this:  For the July application apply 39-0-0 at a rate of 2 pounds per 1000/ft2, and also apply 10 pounds of SBM per 1000/ft2  August, repeat  September apply 39-0-0 at a rate of 1 pound per 1000/ft2, and 15 pounds of SBM  October is the total transition of 15 pounds of SBM per 1000/ft2  Following spring just use 15 pounds of SBM every month up to October.

You can still seed grass in New York for another couple of weeks and you can apply a good lawn food until the middle of November, unless it really snows and that stays. Mulch mow and don't worry too much about weeds now because the annuals like crab grass are dying off now and the perennial weeds are going dormant for the winter. Next spring you can apply your Corn Gluten Meal at the appropriate time for what you want to control since it is a pre emergent, maybe one application in late April when the dandelions, plantain and similar weeds start to grow and another in late June to control crab grass since the CGM is effective for only about 6 weeks. But mowing your grass high next spring will do as much as the CGM to keep crab grass under control since that high grass will shade the soil so it stays cooler and the crab grass won't germinate (those seeds need a pretty warm soil to germinate) and that high grass will also grow more grass filling in the bare spots so the crab grass has more competition. Check this article from Ohio State University about Natural Organic Lawn Care. Here is a link that might be useful: Natural Organic Lawn Care

fireants are a major issue here... Not to hijack the thread, but...ntbio: have you tried using sugar or molasses against the fireants? The technique is to drench the mound with a gallon of sugar water and spray another half gallon in a 10-foot circle around the mound. The theory is that the fire ants collect protein sources from around the garden (and house) and bring them to their mound. If you drench the food source with sugar, their food source will "go bad" on them and they will die or leave. If you spray around the mound, too, they will keep walking to find a more hospitable place to live. Mix 2 ounces of molasses or table sugar to a gallon of water. I've also heard of adding a couple ounces of pure orange oil to the drench. Orange oil is something I'm familiar with from my old Air Force days. I was an engineer working next to the chemist who did the study to approve orange oil for cleaning jet engine parts. That stuff dissolves nearly any organic oil or wax, like the waxy covering that many insects have on their bodies. So the oil should weaken the ants' bodies making them susceptible to microbial attack.