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pre-emergent herbicide

16 years ago

I could not find Scott's pre-emergent herbicide that I have used in the past so I called the 800 number on the bag. They said the Halts pluss two was a Pre-emergent herbacide, but the label says it contains 2-4D. That is not a pre-emergent chemical is it?

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Comments (6)

firstandgoal
16 years ago
No. It is a brodleaf weed killer, the "weed and feed" stuff. Look for the halts preemergent(no fertilizer) or the turf builder with crabgrass preventer in it.

I put down the halts(no fertilizer) on my bermuda when it is still dormant and then fertilize when it is about 60-70% green. I use another brand of fertilizer, though.

What exactly do you use for your preemergent?
arjo_reich
16 years ago
I ordered a 4lb bag of Tupersan, selective pre-emergent from the local Farmer's Co-Op. It's a liquid based solution (after mixing it with water, of course) and that little 4lb bag treats up 1.33 acres so I'm sure it's going to last me the rest of my natural life with my 4000 sq. ft. of total lawn.

What I really like about it though is the fact that it's a selective pre-emergent and you can spray it right onto your grass-seed when renovating. Or so I've been lead to believe...
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2nd the mulch & no herbicide cut seed heads often creative weed control ideas? more mulch more plants closely spaced (no soil or mulch is visible this time of year if planted closely be creative with what works as mulch for you to cover all soil esp. during the growing season some ideas to try -straw, a bale goes a long way (beware if fresh will be a bit slippery if thickly spread) -hay sweepings from the feed store (they put in a dumpster usually & let you remove free when asked. I wear a mask, gloves, & coveralls or a large jacket. I prefer to bring my my own D handle garden fork to remove it & put in garbage cans or bags. I clean up after I'm done, so it isn't an inconvenience to them. I've not been refused as long as they have a supply. Also, haven't had a big weed problem from using it mostly as a bottom layer, so cover if you're concerned about seeds. -dried grass clippings (herbicide free) as well or mown over perennial waste from cutting back after blooming, trimming, etc. (compost seed heads separately unless you want seedlings) -conifer needles (cedar is prolific in dropping dead needles, pines are drop a lot & slow to decompose) -used coffee grounds (free from St*rbucks & better results if you call ahead) -newspaper overlapping 10 sheets as a layer & flat with a light layer of other mulch to cover -dried leaves (from maple saplings or other deciduous hedge material. I pull backward up the stem to remove maple leaves several times a growing season on big leaf maples we've cut down but stumps keep sprouting) -if larger areas like pathways use cardboard, burlap, or upturned carpet. Might not need to top it, but can add wood chips if you have them. Possibly you know someone with the conifers who would appreciate you raking & cleaning up the area underneath the trees. Likewise about the grass clippings. With the dry weather now the grass should dry quickly on a tarp. I spread some lightly today without drying them 1st around the zucchini plants, then later around garden edges, but it should dry just fine by tomorrow. Don't spread thick. I'll stir it a bit and keep an eye on it. I just didn't want to bother with a tarp today and was doing 3 loads from the meadow.
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While some on line sources list these as "professional products" none of the sites state that a purchaser needs a license. Any pre emergent might work for seeds that germinate after it is applied but would not necessarily work on seeds that a placed the next season. One of those, I have forgotten which, says it is effective for about 8 months. If Nebraska requires one to be a certified pesticide applicator you may not be able to purchase either one. Both are very expensive. kimmq is kimmsr
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jimtnc
16 years ago
lainey_6b_va - you need to get that pre-m down fast. You may miss the weed prevention window and have to control weeds the rest of the summer if you don't act quickly. Any pre-m will work now...doesn't have to be Halt's, but if you can find it, fine. I get mine at Lesco, HD, home and garden/nurseries, etc.

Also, if you can only find it with a fertilizer combo, that will work too, but is has to have "crabgrass preventer" or something similar on the bag (ex: Dimension/Balan/Team Pro). Also if you have fescue or bluegrass and can only find the weed and feed combo, I wouldn't do it but one time...it's getting a little late now for fertilizing. NCSU recommends not fertiling after March 15.

arjo_reich - you say Tupersan comes in liquid form now? I bet that stuff cost you a bundle. I used it before, but it only lasted about 4 weeks.
arjo_reich
16 years ago
jimtnc wrote: arjo_reich - you say Tupersan comes in liquid form now? I bet that stuff cost you a bundle. I used it before, but it only lasted about 4 weeks.

The stuff I'm picking up is a 4lb bag of powdered Tupersan that, when mixed with water, treats up to 1 acre per three pounds, or 1.33 acres per bag. Don't know the actual mixing ratios at this point because I'm not picking it up until Tuesday.

My specific use for it is to spray over the freshly laid KBG seed I'm putting down next weekend. It's selective and won't harm the KBG seed and, because it contains no fertilizers, I don't have to worry about that interfering with the mild starter fertilizer I plan on using.
hugheen
15 years ago
I have broadleaf weeds poping up in my lawn now. I'd like to use Tupersan so I can defeat the weeds and plant seed right away however I'm wondering if it's too late.

I could use Ortho as a postemergent but that would delay seeding at least 3 weeks.

Any suggestions?

thanks,

Hugh
bpgreen
15 years ago
Hugheen--Where are you? That makes a difference in the approach you should take.

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