sure looks nasty. This is from the Purdue U site. Snow Molds Two types of snow molds, gray snow mold and pink snow mold, are recognized on turf grass species. They are caused by different pathogens but often occur under the same environmental conditions. Gray snow mold is first noticeable in early spring, after snow melt is complete. It commonly occurs in areas where snow accumulation is the greatest, e.g. along driveways and in areas where drifts develop. It is caused by a fungus that inhabits most soils. The pathogen becomes active at cold temperatures; only under snow cover when soil is not frozen. Special structures are produced by the fungus to ensure its survival during summer months. Turf affected by gray snow mold has a matted, bleached, gray-white appearance. In most cases, infected grass blades are killed, but crowns and roots usually survive. Pink snow mold (also called Fusarium patch) also is caused by a pathogen that inhabits midwestern soils. Snow cover is not required for the development of pink snow mold. The pathogen may also be active during cool (40º - 50º F) wet weather in spring and fall. In recent years in Indiana, pink snow mold outbreaks occured as late as mid-June. The fungus is able to survive periods of summer heat and drought as mycelium and dormant spores in the soil. Under favorable conditions, growth of the fungus on grass blades results in a pink cast to affected areas (hence the name pink snow mold). The patches of affected turf become brown or tan as warm dry weather returns. Like gray snow mold, pink snow mold usually kills leaf blades only. However, under especially severe conditions, crowns and roots may be severely damaged or killed. Management options for midwestern lawns are similar for both gray and pink snow mold. Cultivars of perennial ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and tall fescue that exhibit any resistance to snow mold infection are not available. Also, chemical control is neither practical nor necessary. Serious snow mold problems can be minimized by mowing turf at the recommended heights well into the fall to avoid the exposure of long, lush turf to disease favorable conditions. Eliminating snow piles or accumulations that prolong the duration of snow cover in problem areas will help reduce the snow mold threat. Other practices will help reduce snow mold injury to lawns include improving drainage to eliminate wet pockets within the stand, and lightly raking affected areas in the spring to break up and dry out the matted grass. Reseeding may be necessary if infected areas do not recover by early May.

I should have posted some pictures originally. Here are a few: The rest of my property just has grey snow mold all over the place but the grass seems to be filling in slowly but surely. I have one exceptionally large area that to me gets smaller every day. I believe the grass in this area was thinner last year which would explain seeing dirt. But in the fall I plan on cutting short, dragging around my tine dethatcher to scratch up the soil, overseeding, going over with the tines again, and then fertilizing anyway. http://www.handidrummed.com/psm1.jpg http://www.handidrummed.com/psm2.jpg http://www.handidrummed.com/psm3.jpg http://www.handidrummed.com/psm4.jpg http://www.handidrummed.com/psm5.jpg http://www.handidrummed.com/psm6.jpg

I'd give up early spring greening if I didn't have to deal with half dead patches of grass until May. If my lawn was Rye or TTTF instead of creeping bentgrass, I would have had to reseed a ton of little circles everywhere. Thank god for the stolon spreading ability of bent. No winterizer for me this fall. I'd rather have brown dormant ALIVE grass than snow mold EVERYWHERE. I'm also putting down Daconil before the first snowfall to give me some extra help. I think winterizer is more for people who live south of the constant winter snow field. I think I read somewhere that it takes about 20-30 days to start snow mold growth, which we definitely get here EVERY winter.

Never apply bleach to a living plant, whether it's the plant itself or dousing the medium in which it is growing. "Snow mold" may appear in the planting media. It's not really toxic to the plant, just a sign that the media is breaking down, or decomposing. A solution of Physan can kill mold (fungi, bacteria and other pathogens on contact, not systemically through the plant.) Use bleach and water to disinfect pots to reuse. Physan can do the same. To cleanse a plant's wound, a solution of hydrogen peroxide is safe. Whoever said to use bleach on a plant is misinformed. Bleach is neither a good form of disinfectant on media. Chlorine kills (basically anything). To salvage the plant, remove it from its pot and remove all media from the roots. Wash the plant thoroughly. You can spray a solution of Physan on the plant and its roots. When diluted (follow directions), Physan is safe on plants. Repot the plant in a clean (sterilized or new) pot with fresh media. Your choice of bark or if in clay pots, I use long strand sphagnum moss.