Hi all! I'd love some help- I adopted this money tree because one of the attorneys in my office got a new office plant & was going to throw this one away. I decided to take her home to try to save her but I don't know how! I just bought some bonsai soil mix, regular potting soil, and a new pot on Amazon (not too big) and I'm planning to repot with a mix when they come in, or possible put the bonsai mix on the bottom as a drainage layer. Am I on the right track here? Thanks!!!

Thank you Arthur for explaining your growing conditions and 'hard-canes.' I have absolutely no room for them, that is the reason they get tossed on a corner, left dry and ignored until Spring. They are tall, but you can get away with stuffing them in small pots. Howard - Southern Exposure?? OMG! Before I knew anything 'formal' about growing orchids, I always had dens. Some nobiles, but mostly hard-canes. Rarely got the nobiles to flower (some hybrids did), but they grew and grew. Hard-canes stopped growing after flowering and I assumed they went dormant. So I put them away until I saw sign of life. They rarely got watered (which I know goes against the rules). I do not put them under lights because they are too tall. They have few leaves and because of this don't require strong light. They are potted in rock or Aussie and maybe given a bit of water once a month. They are bone dry. They couldn't rot if they tried. They could dry up (that's happened) but if I notice any major shriveling, I give them some water - not much. I keep the nobiles in the window, but the hard-canes are in a North corner, not by a window. But my room is bright. I don't have room for them in winter. I have too many high light orchids which need the windows and lamps. They don't seem to grow any differently with or without light...they don't grow over winter! Plus, they are ugly sticks and I hide them until spring. I think the big mistake is treating them as if they are growing. Just leave them be and they will wake up when the time is right. Its the care they receive over summer that determines the amount of spikes. These plants are tough but so magnificent when they bloom well. If you get it right, you will have more flowers than any other orchid you could grow. They become giant bushes of flowers. I love them. Jane

Im going to have to say that I really appreciate all the help, but geez, the entire orchid community better get a grip and have some commonality. Ive just did a ton or research,watched a ton of video and just to be sure I ask the experts in an orchid forum. They are all different answers. Someone says use bleach, someone freaks out and says no way, use hydrogen peroxide. Lots of videos are using HP for cutting and dead roots. Then that is bad and should never be done and will kill them. I cant win, doesnt matter what I do someone doesnt like it. Well its done. They were all cleaned and cut and sprayed with HP so I guess they all die now. Ill have video and pics up soon. You can all debate then

Anyone who has ACTUALLY READ and tried to understand my posts on the fig cutting cleaning & storage procedures and who has actually read the "details" of my writings on rooting methods ....should already know WHY it is important to clean cuttings. I have absolutely no desire to repeat any of the details again for the sake of argument. Anyone who really desires to know why......perform a search function on my GW user-name and Clorox and you should find my posts on this matter. Those posts will lead to other good posts written by other forum members. Too, I don't really care what the so called professional rooters do. I know what works very well for me and am working on propagation methods that may well be of interest to them. Funny how some people want to criticize and seek fault rather than try to really understand alternate methods that achieve very high success rates.......with success measured in the number of fully harden off fig trees and not simply measured by the number of cuttings that manage to grow some roots. What I have suggested is practical, very simple (requires no special equipment...like those terrible heating pads, or expensive green houses), and consistently yields very good results. What I have posted is sound and easily reproduced by anyone. Anyone who desires to reduce or completely eliminate mold problems during fig rooting, should consider doing some of the things that I have suggested......simply because THEY WORK real well. Temperature, atmospheric pressure, absolute humidity, relative humidity, moisture, air (oxygen), cutting quality, and rooting environment are some of the variables that affect rooting success and potential molding issues. Most of these parameters are quite easy to control or manipulate to your advantage..... if you know how. It really is not that complicated. At least, I have been kind enough to share some of my thoughts,ideas, experiences, research data, methods, and techniques....we sure can't say that about everybody. Dan