Hi valsound- I'm glad you've found those old postings useful! Keep in mind, that I've only been doing this for a few years, so you might be better to listen to Harvestman & Michael357 who have more experience in this area. Nope, the "lawn disease preventer" is not what you want. You'll find that people here are usually quite strict when it comes to obeying the label. You'll almost never find someone recommending against it. It's really important to obey it for a lot of reasons. I was never able to find Immunox locally and had go online. I just did a Google Product search of "Immunox 61000" and found it. The original online location that I found mine doesn't seem to have it anymore, but there are still plenty of places that carry it. There's also a Spectricide Immunox 61000 which seems to be marketed for roses. I stayed away from that stuff because I wasn't positive that it was the same. http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6736565 http://www.supremehardware.com/servlet/the-41652/Spectracide-Immunox-dsh-Multi-Purpose-Fungicide/Detail http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?t=5&m=g1&itemNumber=7062417 As to when to spray, it sounds like you're trying to be very precise on when to spray. I have to laugh because I do the same thing... keeping a table record of which trees go through which stage on which date, so I can average it all together and find the exact right time. But, I don't think it's necessary to be that precise. In fact, there will often be weather conditions which prevent you from spraying at the exact right time. Anyway, I would just wait until, on average, most of your pedals are coming off. Yes, there will be a tree where it won't happen for another 2 days, and yes, there will be another tree where it happened two days ago... but, IMHO, that will still be OK. Keep in mind that Immunox, unlike many fungicides, has "kickback" which means that it will handle an infection that started a couple days prior. Get ready to kick some CAR butt this year! Hope this helps, -Glenn

Hi Jan: Here's a real fly in the oinment to consider. The CAR galls won't release their spores until they have been wetted for a minimum period of time and the temperatures are warm enough, I can't say what those values are. I have seen them once get wetted for about 6 hours, start to "sprout", then the weather dries out and their development ceases. Are those galls done for the year or will they continue given the right environment? I don't know. I do know that in my location, we can get rain for hours just a mile north of my trees but everything to the south stays dry for weeks on end. The gall spores can travel for more than a mile easily and infect trees. See the problem? One note about Mancozeb. There are forms of it that are labeled (legal) for use on apples and others that are not. I got my cart in front of the horse a couple of years ago and now have one that is not legal on apples; there is at least one Manzate formulation that is, I believe their are others. Read the labels thoroughly before you buy, if it doesn't state the plant you're intending it for don't get it.

Yeah...in fact it states right on the bag to not apply when temps exceed 80F. It also can injure three types of apple also, I believe being Jonathan, Golden Del. and maybe Macintosh. I've never had any chemical burn or really any issues with it whatsoever. In fact, before knowing about the temp limit I have sprayed it probably 30-40 times in temps way exceeding 80 with heavy mixes and also never had an issue, although I certainly no longer do that. That is another reason I started using immunox so that I'd have a fungicide I could use beyond early June. It also says on the bag it can in some cases cause injury to Concord grape and species of it. Before knowing this (yes, I really should read all the instructions first) I had always sprayed all my grapes including concord and seedless concord with it. Again...never ever had any negative effects. I still spray all my grapes with it religously because quite frankly my grapes look better than those I've seen where other fungicides are used. I basically operated on the idea that I'd tank mix sulfur with my insecticide sprays regularly and if something cropped up I'd identify it and get a different (if necessary)spray to target it. I'll probably pick up some MFF, I hear alot of good things about it. I wonder what it's shelf life is?

Apple tastings will not give you any information as to what is the best apple, because each apple reaches its prime at a different time. That's the whole beauty of growing backyard fruit: you get to pick and eat the apples just when they reach their highest potential, at which point each one in its own right would win a taste test hands down against any competitor that isn't at its prime. As far as choosing the right variety for your garden is concerned, there again, fruit tastings are not useful, because soil, micro-climate and the growing season weather all have an effect on the quality and flavor. Because apples loose most of their fragrance in commercial 33F storage conditions, and because they're often picked several weeks before they reach their prime (this is done yet again to improve their shelf-life) you also cannot judge an apple from the way it tastes when you buy it at the store or even often at local farmers markets where apples are stored in cold conditions. Of course, different apples respond differently to cold storage, some are better at retaining good quality. Cameo is generally horrible when bought at the store, but a tree-ripened cameo eaten after just the right amount of "natural" 45-55F storage will taste amazingly good. As a rule of thumb, the later the apple ripens, the higher the quality will be. Some speculate the reason for this is that as the leaves turn, the nutrients from the leaves find their way into the apples. So for example, an Akero ripening in mid-September in Northern Sweden just as the first frosts show up are of much higher quality and have much longer storing properties than an Akero ripening in August in California. In California where I live, the best apples are those that finish off ripening on the tree all the way into January and even Febuary. For example, Granny Smith, an apple that stays green and at best has culinary appeal when grown in Northern latitude reaches its prime table eating quality when it turns bright yellow in late January. At that time, it tastes like a cross in between a fully ripened pink lady and a golden delicious, a most exquisite apple that rivals any other apple out there. The reason is that it ripens when the leaves finally fall off (January in most of sea-level California) and when there is a good chance of light frosts at night. Other apples which are far too tannic to win a taste test but reach their prime in Febuary includes Lady Williams and a number of the Etter selections. However, personally, I still love Summer apples - they have a very small window of good quality that you have to hit just right - that window is sandwiched in between too much astringency on one end and the apple going mealy on the other end. For a really early apple like yellow transparent, that window is sometimes just a few hours, or maybe a day or two at most. When you hit an apple like that just right, it's down right heavenly and could win a taste test down right. For example, I just picked "yellow transparent" apples last night, and I let them sit on the counter until this afternoon. This afternoon, they are 100% perfect, the right balance of sweetness and acidity, still nice and crunchy, and downright awesome and yummy and refreshing. Another six hours and they'd be going mealy, good maybe for baking or the chickens. But they're worth it for that small 6 hour window. That's part of the fun. How do I know when they're at their peak? I smell them, as the aroma will peak when they're just right. The beauty and fun of backyard apple growing is that each apple is a 100% unique flavor, completely dependant on when it is picked and what the weather was like, and the types of feeding it got. Yes, this is the total opposite of what commercial growers try to do - a homogenized, repeatable but bland experience of eating an apple that is usually more reminiscent of eating cardboard. The truth is that each apple is like a fine wine: it's going to taste different each time, and when treated right, aged properly, and consumed at just the right time, then it can be an earth shattering experience. My advice to anyone wanting to grow their own apples: experiment with a lot of varieties. Learn to graft and try out grafting many different varieties to find the one that suits your taste buds the best. You will be handsomely rewarded. I have Rhode Island Greening, now that is one heck of an amazing apple. My all time favorite through has to be Pink Lady. A good home grown Gala or jonagold will knock your socks off, but a store bought one may leave you wondering how anyone can eat apples that taste like cardboard. I can't over-emphasize how much of an impact the surroundings of a tree can have. For example, Cox Orange Pippin is notoriously difficult to grow. Out here in California, this tree is best grown with 100% afternoon shade, otherwise the fruits are of very poor quality. Finally, there's the whole issue of disease resistance. But why care about that for a backyard apple? Unless you have commercial ambitions, who cares what the apple looks like. Apple disease susceptibility should not be the primary factor in selecting a backyard tree. In the backyard, imperfection is not only acceptable, it's desirable. On an interesting note, Cox Orange Pippin wood has viruses, yet these very viruses give the fruit more flavor. Here in California, Dave Wilson had the viruses removed from the Cox Orange Pippin (a laboratory procedure) and the resulting trees bear fruit of far inferior quality than the original virus infected Cox orange pippin. The bottom line is that backyard apple growing is not a factory practice, it's a real art form - it should be a fun and unique experience. Your apples will be special and different from everyone else's apples. I'll get off my soap box for now - I'd love to hear other's experiences of the best tasting apples they have ever eaten.