Advice for Kentucky Bluegrass
david92629
16 years ago
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Comments (18)
arjo_reich
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agophiles21
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Fescue vs. Kentucky Bluegrass
Comments (8)Since you mention the use of Kentucky Blue I'm going to assume you wish to use a 'cool season' type grass. Generally, if a type of lawn turf has problems....i.e. turns brown when water is at a premium, or tends to die out during heat spells, or some other problem that is perplexing a homeowner....the usual advice is to try to overcome the problem by planting a seed that is not affected by what troubles the one type....so, and I'm sure the seed dealer will agree, plant a combination of grass seeds so that each can give its best when times are tough on one. A good combination for cool season type grass is 40% Kentucky Blue, 30% perennial ryegrass and 30% red fescue. Combinations approaching those percentages are found anywhere and everywhere so you shouldn't have any trouble finding. Its generally agreed that before you overseed an area that has already a lawn, correct any imperfections the ground might have...i.e. fill in with topsoil any depressions, any mounds that can be rolled and thus levelled, any bare patches that are best fixed with plugs....etc etc. A toplayering of 1/2" to 1" topsoil or compost or triple mix...you decide...is laid either before, or after the scattering of the seed. Sometimes seed is administered with the fertilizer spreader...a starter fertilizer can be considered and applied with the seed. Scattering by hand is easy as long as you apply a generous amount to the area. Seed is not inexpensive....but for a good turf it is recommended that you apply the best seed you can afford...it pays dividends in the end. If you are having to buy the topsoil...and your area is large...you can trust this formulae to find out exactly how much soil you would have to purchase. If the amount is large, then buying IN BULK is the least expensive. Measure the area you intend to work...length times width... IN FEET. That gives you square feet...multiply that times the depth IN INCHES....then multiply that figure times 3....and divide by 1000. That results in the number of cubic yards of soil you have to buy to cover the area. example...if the area is 25 feet by 50 ft..equals 1250 sq ft times depth..1" = 1250 X 3 = 3750 divided by 1000 =- 3.75 cubic yards of soil. Such amount is best bought in bulk...delivered by truck to your driveway--then by wheelbarrow to the area. If the area is wanted to be leveled first, then rolling can be done. Rolling can also be done AFTER the seeding process to better put the seed into contact with the soil. Overseeding is ..for me anyway...a ritual I follow every fall. It encourages strong turf that stands up to adversity...disease and pests. Generally, if you follow a regimen of fertilizing...the high nitrogen content can speed up filling in bare spots and greening up. Going cheap on the feeding program encourages weak growth...and if winter throws a hard freeze early, it can make for spring problems. Watering is also not cheap. But again watering is necessary for the grass roots to grow strong...so the usual recommendation of 1" of water (rain notwithstanding) per week is the norm and helps grass grow lushly. Only by experimenting with how you apply water can you learn about what your lawn needs....See MoreKentucky Bluegrass vs. Perenial Ryegrass germination
Comments (1)PRG can take over if you stop watering before you get 80% germination from the KBG. Just don't stop early. PRG germinates to 80% in about a week. With KBG it takes 3 weeks of continual moisture....See MoreDoes this look like fertilizer burn on my Kentucky Bluegrass lawn?
Comments (8)This time of year, south of 'Frisco,' (I know y'all hate that term, about as much as we hate San Antone, but anyway...) you should be watering no more frequently than once every 4 weeks. Here is a picture of a neighborhood in east PA which is full of contractor grade KBG lawns. The picture was taken in July several years ago. The green lawn was replaced with a non-contractor grade seed, but the main point of difference is that the green lawn is watered once a week (during hottest heat of summer) while the rest are watered every day. Thank you to morpheuspa for the picture. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall....See MoreKentucky Bluegrass struggle near the road - Central Indiana
Comments (3)Are temperatures still warm there? Edges near roadways tend to be hotter, saltier (if road salt is used), and just generally less conducive to grass growth. We all have that problem. You can check to see if the soil's a bit more dry than the surrounding area and enhance that if it is. Or, feed it a bit heavier (organically) or a tad more often (organically or synthetically). Adding Milo right now would be a good idea. Even in Indiana, there's still a bit of growth and development time left, although not very much. And Milo has some fast nitrogen that will go into play immediately. With Milo, skip the November app. It's too cold and only the very fast portion will work--use a good synthetic at growth stoppage, which for you might be as early as late October. If you app Milo now, two-thirds bag rate will be entirely sufficient....See Morebestlawn
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoturf_junkie
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16 years agolast modified: 9 years agophiles21
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