Ficus binnendijkii 'Alii' prefers bright, indirect sun; moist, but not soaked soil; extra humidity can be provided by a humidifier or a tray of pebbles beneath the pot, but don't let the pot sit in the water as the soil will wick the water and root rot is fatal. The dark patches may be "sunburn" from getting too bright sun or from lack of extra humidity or a combination of the two. Keep spraying those stinking spider mites! Those stinkin' bugs...I too have an infestation now. Good luck!

Update: The ficus which can be seen in the middle of the first image died a few days after posting my first message in this thread. The one in the back of the first image is really thriving now. Since it was the healthiest, I decided to give it special care. It was quite frustrating to see them barely survive, so I read about anything on ficus benjamina care I could get my hands on and made it a challenge for me to get the healthier one to grow. It had artificial lighting as a supplemental light source for the past two weeks and it's like the plant exploded with new growth. In the end it seems like it was a matter of light, which it apparently was just waiting for. It's growing like crazy now. If there are interested people here, I could post some new pictures.

Hi y'all, I hope your plants are doing well this winter! I wanted to check in to make sure I'm taking care of my ficus properly now that I've moved it indoors. I used to water it 2-3 times a week outdoors with a full gallon of water + DynaGro FoliagePro 9-3-6 liquid fertilizer. It responded very well to this treatment and new leaves grew to replace the initial shed it underwent when I repotted. San Antonio started getting into the 30s and 40s so I brought it inside during November. Now that it's indoors in front of this second-story west facing window, I've started watering it once every week and a half (or once I watered it after two weeks). I also use about a half gallon of water. I am still fertilizing it. I have it raised in a clay tray on top of some marbles so it doesn't stand in water. Plus I have a plastic tray underneath the clay one to hold excess water. It's probably been getting more sunshine than it used to when it was outdoors, because it used to be on a shaded patio and now it gets lots of sunshine from this window. Now for my questions! Many leaves have been yellowing and dropping in the past couple of weeks. Do you all think this is just a normal response to a somewhat finicky plant like a ficus benjamina being moved to a new environment? Or am I perhaps watering it too much? Or did I not water it enough (like that time I accidentally didn't water it for two weeks)? Pics!

Azaleas are not heavy feeders so they do not need a lot of fertilizers. They do benefit from 2-4" of organic mulch (no rocks). Once they become established (1-3 years) and provided your soil has no mineral deficiencies (say, because the soil is sandy, etc.), the root system will feed off the decomposing mulch. You can feed the azaleas in the Spring but now is not necessary. A single application of 1 cup of cottonseed meal, HollyTone in Spring is enough. However, a newly planted azalea usually has these round fertilizer pellets that will take care of the fertilizing for this year so I would use the ferts in Spring 2021 instead. A fertilizer usually has the main three minerals nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Some also have trace minerals. The best ones for azaleas usually have names that say "for azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas, roses, blueberries, etc" or some other combination. A fertilizer will have a NPK Ratio spelled out in the packaging. Everything else is considered a soil amendment. For example, my soil is alkaline so I amend the soil a few times a year as well to acidify it. I do not think you should apply insecticides unless you have had issues in previous years with that pest. With that type of philosophy, you might end up spending lots of money for a multitude of chemicals for all possible types of pests. Now that you have a few, hand on to them but dispose of those that expire in the recommended manner of the product label. When there is a pest around, identify it so you can use a pesticide whose active ingredient has been proven to help with that pest. In other words, a pesticide whose active ingredient is for pest #1 may do nothing to pest #2. Pests can come out during the day or only at night. To identify trouble makers, you need to catch them in the act so investigate at different times of the day/night, look at the leaf undersides, the soil, under rocks, throughout the branches, etc. If they are already gone then there is nothing you can do other than make a mental note to apply proactively next year, starting a month before you detected the problem. Similarly, by the end of the growing season, leaves no longer look pristine as they did in early Spring so you also do not need to panic to fix every possible leaf problem. If I see a situation in a handful of leaves, I try to decide if this is going to affect more leaves or not and then I take action accordingly. Here is more info from the Azalea Society of America: https://www.azaleas.org/azalea-basics/