Most herbicides take longer than 2 days to show any affects. If the weeds are still alive and kicking in 2 weeks, then you should reapply. Some weeds might not be killed by the Bayer, in which case you will need to identify those and use some more specific herbicides.

I just checked their website, and you shouldn't use it on KBG, PR, or TTTF if it's over 80 and not on Bermuda or Zoysia if it's over 90. Since it kills some grasses, you can't use it all on some. I think by less severe, you mean that it doesn't kill all the grass. However, RU dissipates very quickly. You can seed within days of applying RU, but you need to wait 3-4 weeks after applying the Bayer Advanced.

loganlabs.com. The website tells you all about it. We recommend LL after fairly extensive testing of labs all over the country done year after year by lawn gurus on various forums. Logan Labs is the most reliable and repeatable. For the home owner they are affordable. UMASS came in a close second, and was #1 for several years. Those two labs stand out way above all the universities and private labs. A little history of organic fertilizer. Back in the 20s, 30s, and 40s, a guy named Rodale wrote about natural or organic gardening. His approach was to use compost made from "well rotted manure" and garden clippings. Compost is the decomposition product of animal dung as well as any lawn clippings, table scraps, or other garden cuttings. What people don't realize about a compost pile is that a hot pile will easily decompose an animal. One of our local compost giants takes in about 2 dozen road kill deer and livestock every year. After about 4 days, all that's left is the hooves. The trick with that is to have a hot pile. That's harder to do than you think. But anyway, when the microbes in the pile have finished devouring all the plant material, all the microbial byproducts, and each other, the only thing that's left is byproducts of the last few species of microbes. In other words, it's depleted itself. It's practically peat moss. It's mulch with a little bit of plant nutritional value. It takes 700 pounds of compost to equal the nutritional value of 15 pounds of modern organic fertilizer and to equal just a few pounds of chemical fertilizer. Back when Rodale was doing his work nobody knew why compost worked. The lab scientists knew there were about 50 microbe species living in the soil because they could either grow them in the lab or see the byproducts. Fast forward to the 1990s when DNA testing became cheap enough that they could run it on dirt. Much to their surprise they found DNA for 30,000 different species of microbes. Later in the 2000s they found an additional 70,000 species in the soil. Finally they could explain why the soil seems to have such magical powers for plant health. About that time I started reading about the soil food web. I don't remember why I visited a feed store, but I did and started reading the ingredient labels on bags of organic fertilizer. I found it was full of animal feeds like soybean meal, corn meal, corn gluten meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa, and some animal byproducts (poultry manure). Well, there I was in a feed store. Suddenly a lot of what I had been reading came together. I had been introduced to corn meal to cure fungal disease all around the garden. I bought some more corn meal and spread it around the yard. It worked! Now I'm not saying I invented modern organic fertilizer - after all I was reading the labels, so the manufacturers obviously knew about it; but what I did was bring it to the lawn care community. So what I recommend is any of the following animal feeds: soybean meal, alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) or meal, corn meal, corn gluten meal, or any other ground up nut, bean, or seed you can find cheap at your local feed store. The application rate is 15 pounds per 1,000. If you happen to overdose and apply 50 pounds per 1,000, that should not hurt anything. It will stink, but it won't hurt anything. So 15 is good and so is 20. For your very first application, you might want to use 10 pounds because it can be a little whiffy the first time. Then in 3 weeks your microbe population will be up to normal and you can apply at full strength. Milorganite is a different kind of organic product, but it works well. The way these work is the protein in the grain gets decomposed by the soil microbes. Those microbes get decomposed by other microbes and eventually real plant food is created. That process takes 3 weeks from the time you apply the feed/food. Here's a picture from mrmumbles a few years ago. He applied alfalfa pellets in mid May and took the picture in mid June.You can see the improved color, density, and growth.

Sorry didn't seem the last post had any pictures not sure what happened. So far just ortho weed b gone CCO and Bayer weed killer. Again KBG near Detroit, full sun. Not much water as yet just rain. No fertilizer yet since I was waiting for which steps to take. Was going to topdressed and overseed but realized was too late already and topdressing seems not be necessary according to some of you. Hope pics come through. The first three or four are the front yard. The rest are the back(worse). The darker green patches you see from the distance shots are clover(or CC not sure the difference but they are spread out).