That grass sure looks dead to me, which is an unfortunate waste of money and sod. Dormant grass is generally tan,yellow, or an off green color. Gray grass is generally dead. I suppose an extreme case of gray snow mold could make grass look like that, but if it pulls up very easily like in your pic, then it's probably dead. The fact that you can actually make out the edges makes me wonder when this sod was laid, and if it was ever healthy. While it may be 15 C (59 F) where you live, turfgrass is more responsive to soil temperatures. If your nights are freezing, then your soil may not be warm enough to end dormancy, but again, this doesn't look like dormant grass to me. Seed needs to be in contact with soil, not on top of dead grass. A power rake might be enough to break up the dead sod, but if it doesn't, you might have to remove it. The best time to seed a cool season grass is late summer/early fall. Grasses seeded at this time have ideal soil temps for germination, warm days and cool dry nights, no heat stress, and little weed and disease pressure. Spring seeded turf has lower soil temps, so germination takes longer, weed pressure, and stress from summer. Being in Canada however might mitigate some of these stresses, but you should wait till soil temps get to about 55 degrees minimum, 60 would be better. I would use Kentucky bluegrass for sunny areas and/or fine fescues for shady ones where you live. Tall fescue and perennial rye might have issues with cold kill, although I am not that familiar with your climate. Most mixes in big box stores contain perennial rye for quick germination, but often this means people don't water enough for the other grasses to germinate and establish, and the perennial rye becomes the dominant species.

As for the weed, can you photograph it and link or post the picture. Regarding leveling: At the end of a sprinkler trenching you should have a mound of soil/sod that follows the trench they dug. If that is what you have, they did it right. If you have a low spot along the trench or it is level, they did it wrong. It will take three years for the soil to settle completely. That mound today will eventually disappear. Still, I can understand how a mound could be a problem with bermuda. You might consider tamping it down now and hoping for the best. Ultimately you might be in for a serious leveling job. If you have bermuda mowed low, any imperfection stands out like a sore thumb. There was a great thread about leveling a bermuda lawn here a few weeks ago but the original poster removed his pictures. That's a cryin' shame because he really did a good job of illustrating what he did and how it looked along the way. I'll see if I can describe it... Start with bermuda turf that is actively growing in mid season, well watered, ready to be fertilized, and mowed to 3/4 inch 1. Mow down to 3/8 and remove clippings 2. Core aerate heavily and remove cores 3. Fertilize 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet 4. Apply riversand to fill aeration holes and low places and to just cover all grass 5. Sweep sand piles around with a push broom to begin leveling 6. Continue leveling with a drag (2x4, for example) 7. Roll sand down with a water fillable roller to settle and pack sand 8. Relevel with the drag, fill with more sand, and repeat rolling 9. Water heavily to settle sand Roll again Allow grass to grow through the sand for 4 weeks. Begin to mow back down to 1/2 inch. His picture at step 4 was a picture of sand. You could not tell there was grass under the sand. I cannot be sure but I suspect that a picture at any step before step 11 would have looked like sand. I also suspect the grass blades were just sticking out when he finished step 10. In any case his grass was not smothered. I would have bet money he smothered the entire lawn, but it worked. I have been thinking about why his method worked (I have seen bermuda lawns ruined by smothering). I think the preconditions were very important along with step 3 and possibly the use of riversand rather than sharp mason's sand. I hope more people read that and will photograph and show us their results. The sand will become your new soil level and the grass will grow up through it. It HAS to be perfect when you finish with step 10 or else you repeat steps 4-10 until it is the way you want.

First, thank you for responding!!! Yeah, when they delivered the "soil", I called up the landscaping company, because I was at work when they delivered it, and said, "uh, I think they delivered sand, not soil". She laughed and said it was vegas soil....LOL!!! I measured the amount of water, and in 20 minutes I got about half an inch of water. It seems all the sod "took". I went around a few weeks ago and pulled up on various locations and nothing moved (Thank God)! And if you pull up on the yellow areas, it feels good and secure. I took my little hand rake and raked thru the yellow spots, and nothing comes out - like if it was completely dead you know the dead grass comes right out. Sorry, I'm knew to this, back in Chicago you didn't have to work hard on grass!! LOL!!! I went to star nursery yesterday, I've got a tall fescue - "emerald carpet". He also said to keep watering heavy since it's new grass. He told me to use a product called "Fung Away" and also a fertilizer called "7-7-7 Triple Play". I need more fung away though since I ran out of it and wasn't even done with the grass. But, how soon after I do the fung away, can I fertilize? Can I do the corn meal and fung away? He also mentioned mowing the grass in 3 different directions, then taking the lawn mower and power washing the bottom of it, and spraying with a bleach water to kill any fungus that might be left on the mower. He said to water it for 45 minutes 2/day. Does that sound good to you? Or, can I do a heavy water every other day and the in between days do a lighter watering? Such as Monday-heavy, Tuesday-lighter, Wednesday-heavy....THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!!!!

Have not repotted the plant yet - chore did not get done. Perhaps this afternoon. Thanks for the advice. My last plant lived in dappled shade until mid-afternoon, and then full sun. Seemed to do fine. I haven't seen my neighbor to ask her where this pot was located. Hers was far more proliferous than my plant, but do I think she has had this plant forever. I think I remember it in the same pot when I was given the pup and that was quite awhile ago. SJN, you are right. I did plant my Michelia Alba into the ground. Here's what it looked like at purchase in April 2016. Here it is when initially potted up. It sailed through winter 2017. We had no hard freeze. I planted it into the ground last April 2017 and it was a beautiful little tree all of last year - and bloomed so nicely! But yes, it froze all the way back to the roots in winter 2018. It's coming back very strongly. It is full of new growth, all from the base of the tree. I removed all of the dead parts - all of the tree from the base of the trunk and up. I imagine it will be a shrub from now on. I don't expect that I will ever take a tree-form again. I will get picture and post today. DG, I look forward to an eventual update on your Buddha's Hand planted in the ground. I'm still thinking about doing the same and still mulling it over. I wonder if it will spread - and if aggressively? Invasive plants always start slowly at first - they fool you - and then when you are not looking, they take over and are everywhere! Carol