"Sorry to break the bad news to you." Assuming the shaded counties are the ones with Bermuda, I'm in a Bermuda free zone. "You know one of my pet peeves is when people take offense to large font size." I don't object to the large fonts so much as the blinking. Blinking fonts give me headaches in a matter of seconds (maybe I have some mild form of epilepsy or something, but I won't shop at a site with blinking text). I know you like to use blinking fonts, but I find them really annoying because of the headache inducing factor. I shouldn't have objected to the size and bold text. "Yes and I said this only to the person that originally claimed to have 1 foot bermuda growing near their yard thinking they would go take a picture, post it here and it would turn out to be a different type of grass because bermuda doesn't grow that tall except special forage types that are "well managed"." Maybe I misunderstood you from the start. I thought you were saying that Bermuda could never reach that height. "I didn't yell at you (I was just emphasizing text that was overlooked multiple times) but lets make up and be friends, ok? " You did yell at me (typing in all caps is considered yelling), but if you stop with the blinking, I'll let it pass. I didn't overlook the stock photo comments, I just never saw anything that supported them. We've disagreed on this thread, but I think we've agreed more often than not and even if we never agreed, that's no reason we can't be friends.

Linda, is your tree a sweet cherry? Mine's ornamental...I hope that makes a difference, tag says it only gets up to five foot tall. If it gets much bigger than that it will get the ax...or chain saw. Gemini, that's a good idea, because I was thinking about getting dark brown shutters like the garage. I really don't want to paint over vinyl. I may post a picture over there on my day off this week. Flamingo and Maryann, I know, I've fallen half a dozen times while mowing and everytime I hold onto the stupid thing as I go down...then I realize I should probably let go. Haven't hurt anything but my pride. Chisue, it's been in the low 70s the past few days and today it was in the 30s. Tomorrow's high is supposed to be 39. I want the Springtime weather back!

Thanks for the help everyone. It surely isn't my preference to do something that then forces me to do the very thing I'm glad is ending until the summer. But the grass turns brown etc and then the dogs like to play where the holes are and make it worse. Yes its pretty much a mix of Bermuda and Centipede. So I should look for some type of Kentucky Bluegrass instead? What about the dwarf rye grass. How do they compare. I'm guessing either I would need to order online? It might also be that I have no idea how to apply the seed. The grass seed I was buying was not that expensive. All I have is a small hand spreader with a side crank labeled 1-2-3 on the handle. I guess I could measure the area to see just how much a bag should cover. Thx

Spotty higher pH can happen if you got the soil off of one particular section of the pile...that happened to contain the old B horizon with some limestone in it! In my case, I got the old subsoil on my lot, so it just kind of stank all around. * You said you targeted our phosphorus level higher than your own lawn. Is this due to the pH difference or something else? Is phosphorus bound in the soil at higher pH's, and is our pH (7.1 - 7.3) high enough to cause that? pH. If you look at the availability of P by pH, it drops as pH rises above seven. You're not that far over, the binding isn't extreme, so I just boosted the numbers a little bit. Your standard is around 220, most people with slightly acidic pH would be around 200. In your case, I wouldn't blink at anything between 200 and 300. I never use my own soil as a standard, per se, for anybody else's. Mine have given in to some experimental stuff, plus I've over-enhanced the gardens to match the (extreme) density and (extraordinarily high) performance I demand they support. My current P levels in the garden push 1,000. * What kind of quality issues can we expect from the low phosphorus level until it's corrected? Thin, weak, sparse growth that gets sick and dies easily, discolors easily, grows poorly, and generally doesn't look at all good. Installed sod would tend to thin out and die back over the course of a year or so if it isn't corrected, resulting in a lot of thin patches and blank areas. N, P, and K are the big three and absolutely have to be there in the correct proportions (N we take care of on an as-needed basis). * It sounds like the Milorganite is great stuff, but I'm very sensitive to odors, so I don't think it's a good fit for our lawn. If we used ferrous sulfate instead (being careful to sweep it off the concrete), what rate and frequency would you recommend? I assume we don't need to worry about lowering the soil pH too much with the ferrous sulfate since the starting pH is above 7.0. I'd be comfortable with ferrous sulfate (monohydrate or pentahydrate, it doesn't matter) at 3 pounds per thousand square feet in April, early October, and perhaps early November if the weather's holding. Keep an eye on the pH in this case, though, as iron sulfate is about an eighth as acidifying as pure elemental sulfur and does NOT require digging in to work! Never use iron during hotter months or when the soil's going to freeze solid for winter within two or three weeks of use.