This is tough. As an pathological optimist I will say that your big tree can be saved- but it might not be worth the effort. Harvestman could, I imagine, do this, were he on site in time and equipped, but if I had to try myself I'd first try to keep the roots from drying out, and then figure out how to get it at least semi-upright. I'm envisioning mounds of compost or peat moss, wraps of plastic, a small back hoe, and chain. I hope you let us know how this plays out.

As for the varieties of fruit, I think I may have seen a Transparent (1 & 3), and a Liberty or MacIntosh type (2 & 8), a Granny Smith (9) ... but I don't know, and no guesses about the pears, except it could be a Bartlett on the right.

Could you make this multiple choice? And I hope we're grading on the curve!

:-)M

I would like to hear from harvestman on that tree. If it were mine and I had no other input from others I would.....

Cover those roots with some wet burlap or some old towels ASAP.

Cut the tree way back as its unlikely whats left of the roots will be able to support a tree of that size.

Pick off all of its fruit.

Put the tree back in the ground and stake it for a year or two until it reestablishes itself.

You could chainsaw it and start over.

The pear on the far left almost looks like a Seckel.

We got the same storm here and lost a good peach limb.

On the downed apple tree, I vote for the chainsaw. If you've got 70 trees, one won't be missed much and you can always plant a new one.

Even if you could stand it up and save it, it won't have good anchorage.

Don't think of your trees as pets, you'll fret too much. Think of them as crops that need to be continually replanted.

I've no idea on the cultivar identification.

Kendra:

I agree with Olpea, and would call your downed apple tree a write-off. Given the loss from broken roots, I don't think there is any way to save it, even if you call in Johnny Appleseed himself. It won't survive no matter what you do, and even if it did would never be the same.

I was struck by the small size of the root ball on this tree in relation to the top growth. Since you live in an area subject to unpredictable high winds, you might consider looking over your other apple trees with a view to reducing their overall size. A tree with lots of crowded top growth acts like a sail, and invites wind damage when the root systems do not keep up.

As for the fruit ID project, I can only identify No. 9 with any degree of certainty, which I would call Granny Smith because of its unique metallic green color.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

The practical advice is the chainsaw in my opinion also, but who that tends this forum is completely practical? I've saved downed trees for sentimental customers using a hand wench to lift it if a couple of strong people are inadequate.

3 large eyescrews, heavy wire and duck billed anchors can hold it until it re-establishes a functional root system. Eye screws into the wood are considered the best option these days for long term support. A single strong cedar post can be used as a more permanent support if necessary.

Before lifting it reduce the branches to just the minimum framework of the tree shape you want- maybe a quarter of what is there now.

On your windy site, I'd use summer pruning to keep trees much more open than that one appears- actually it looks too densely branched for any site.

I too am surprised at the root system revealed in the photo but I can't see enough of it from that side to see if there aren't more substantial roots lower down.

I wouldn't bother saving that tree, however (on my own property). It just aint anything special and was a rebuilding project when it went over.

I'm lousy at fruit identification, especially if I can't see the fruit on the tree on location. I'm actually looking for a fruit identification specialist to use as a consultant. I manage a lot of very old trees that I'm unable to identify.

Thank you for the advice on the fallen tree. YouÂve made me think about the root ball. We found a large white pipe under the roots where it broke off. WeÂre having someone come look at it just in case. We have also decided to reduce the size of most of the trees for next year. Is Fall or Winter the best time to make these reductions?

Markmnt, no grading , you get 100% just for your advice!

Thisisme, any ideas on what to do with the fruit that IÂll be picking?

Olpea, sounds like you are close to me. I know you are quite busy, but if you are ever in NE Kansas you are welcome to visit. I was thinking of the trees as my pets. How did you know?

Jellyman, I know the tree would never be the same and I would always be a little afraid of it falling down again. How much reduction is considered "safe"?

Harvestman, all of our trees are still too dense. These few last months weÂve learned so much. Thank you all for sharing all your expertise. IÂll look for a fruit identification specialist in my area too. IÂm still trying to find the past original owner of the trees. IÂll have a chat with DH tonight about the tree.

Just a heads up, but apple wood could hold some value to someone. My brother does a ton of smoking (meat!) and uses apple chips. Might be worth money to someone. Also could be used in a fireplace/woodstove or even used by a wood worker of some type.

There's always the non intervention route. If the tree still has some roots in the ground and you can't face the work of winching you could just leave it and see if it carries on growing lying down. If you're prone to high winds in your area (Kansas? High wind? Doesn't that ring a bell somehowhere?) maybe a horizontal orchard is a practical idea!

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:121215}}

Flora has a point. I manage several ancient apples that fell over and then were retrained into a new shape.

Interesting....In this case would I just get rid of all the dying debris and leave the branches that look alive alone?

I really think I'll give it a try. I am trying to learn as much as possible and experimenting with this would be great!

Thank you Flora! I'll keep you posted!